Side Table Build


pkinneb

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Interesting to allow room for expansion on the tenon. I forget the rule of thumb, but its something like if your tenon is wider than 3" it should become a twin tenon. I did not follow this rule on my double gate build for my fence and the one upper rail is bulging the top of the corresponding stile. I probably had a 5-6" wide tenon for each 7-8" wide rail. Obviously exterior conditions getting rained on will be extreme, but i should have split that tenon into two. Long winded way of saying kudos.

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Next up was cutting V groves in the top to bring out the pin wheel design a bit better

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I think that looks much better

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Then I routed a rabbit on the underside of the top for the block that will hold the kumiko

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Marked it off square and took a chisel and mallet to clean up the corners

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Then I made and installed a block for the kumiko panel and construction of this side table is complete

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4 hours ago, davewyo said:

Wonderfully executed, Paul! That's some nice clean work.

You must something like a brown belt in chisel fu. The insides of your mortises are so pretty they should be on the outside!:D

Thanks Dave! Means a lot coming from you. Your work on the "Cabriole Thing" is nothing short of amazing to me.

3 hours ago, wdwerker said:

So you delve into the kumiko next ? That stuff fascinates me !

Yep need to finish up my TS out feed table this weekend while I fume the table then will dig into that next week.

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On 9/5/2017 at 8:01 AM, Eric. said:

Nice work man.  Yeah that tapering jig scares me because the workpiece is not secured.  At the very least I'd rather use some double-stick tape and just line up some marks.  I make 5-minute jigs with toggle clamps for tapering.

 

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I agree very much. I tried the loose taper jig approach on a more narrow tapered leg (think it went down to 3/4 at the tip of the leg and running it through like that scared the hell out of me. After that I built a jig similar to what you've shown.

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  • 4 weeks later...
12 hours ago, Cheeset202 said:

Paul, could you explain the fuming process and what it does.  I can't stand the smell of ammonia at any strength reminds me when my mom used to clean the floors, got me outta the house quickly.  Looking forward to seeing the results!

Ultimately its a way of darkening wood, white oak in this case, that has been used in mission and craftsman style furniture for some time. Its a fairly straight forward process that Mike Pekovich described over on FWW. You make a tent of some kind in this case I made it out of scraps and plastic make sure its sealed up good. You place your piece and the ammonia under the tent and put a small amount of ammonia in a dish I used a dish that was about 4"x4" x1" deep with about a 1/2" of ammonia in it. Then you seal the tent, i just laid pieces of wood around the plastic on the outside and wait. Since I had never done this before i ran my test pieces first but you could have put the test pieces and the main piece in at the same time and once you reach the look you desired pull them both out. I did 2,4,& 6 hours here but you can pick whatever you want. I will also add garnet shellac and the Waterlox before I determine the end finish prior to fuming my project so that I get just the finish I am looking for.

The fumes can be bad, really bad, so like Pekovich I used Janitorial strength ammonia which provided the results while not being nearly as toxic as industrial strength would have been. I did do this in my spray room with the fan running but even with the fan off for a half hour (just wanted to see) the fumes were not bad. Having said that a well ventilated area is best, outside if possible in my case it was raining yesterday so that was a no go. The Ammonia can be poured back in the container and reused and at $3 a bottle is a pretty cost effective process. 

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2 hours ago, C Shaffer said:

Looked for this on the forum...not realizing he likely just linked to it here. Finally found it while being a smart butt. LMGTFY

Thanks for sharing, btw I suspect he is using industrial ammonia. Here is a link to the process I am following on this piece.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2013/11/01/episode-6-an-authentic-finish 

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So here are the samples the center is with Garnet Shellac and the top is with Garnet Shellac and 4 coats of Waterlox.

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I think I will go with 4 hours but I'm gonna sleep on it and look at the samples in the living room during the daylight then pick it and wrap this project up.

 

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1 hour ago, gee-dub said:

This is great. Can’t wait for more.

Thanks gee-dub!

49 minutes ago, Lester Burnham said:

That's such a cool design. You're kickin' all the @#$ on this one.

Thanks! The design is by Kevin Rodel I really like his stuff. Going to be doing a Limbert inspired coffee table he designed for the same room once this and the QSWO/stained glass lamp I'm working on for this table are complete.

Anyone interested in a build journal on the lamp? I have the stained glass panels almost complete and have been taking pictures all along, will be starting the wood portion this weekend. I thought about doing a journal (keeps me focused) but wasn't sure since the wood portion will probably be much shorter than the stained glass.

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I have been thinking about building a lamp, you journal might get me pointed in the right direction.

48 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

I thought about doing a journal (keeps me focused)

See, I think I am just the opposite, trying to remember to photograph a step causes me to loose my train of thought or focus.  That is why the media cabinet journal had so many blank spots.

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Got the shellac on tonight really liking the color 

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I did switch from a rag to a small foam brush to do the grid it was almost impossible to get a rag into all the corners with the rag. I did wipe off the excess with the rag, worked well.

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3 or 4 coats of waterlox and other than the center Kumiko this one will be a wrap. The Kumiko will have to wait until I finish my lamps which will take a week or two.

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