Chestnut

Networkign Devices Stand

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On 12/6/2017 at 8:21 AM, Chestnut said:

Thanks. What steve said. I don't quite understand the name but that doesn't mean much there are a lot of things i don't understand.

When you drill cores, you are left with a cylinder to store. Some of those can be fragile and benefit from a round bed. Somewhere along the line This became associated with casting molds that resemble drilled cores. Google foo brings up the casting but my experience is all with drilled cores. 

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I got all the dominoes done for the sides and did a quick dry assembly. This one will be on the edge between taking too long for yellow glue but being very wasteful for epoxy.

Gonna start with a question. Would a couple deep throat clamps be worth it? I feel like i always end up in situations where i'd use them. Does any one have any good recommendations or have had and good luck with deep throat clamps?

Here getting some good force in the middle of the case to hold everything together seems difficult even with a bow caul.

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I have 6 or so deep throat " F " clamps that were made by Jorgensen. They have the spring loaded clutches that grip a smooth bar. I think Bessey makes something similar. They are heavy and kinda pricey. But when you need them not much else will do the job. I also remember seeing some extended jaws that fit on pipe clamps , those might be a decent alternative. 

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Instead of a bow clamp I have used a long board, sufficiently stiff, that in this case would run vertically up the side of the case. Clamp at the bottom then have it sticking above the top, put a block between the board and piece where you want the clamping pressure and add a clamp to the top pulling the tops of the board together, increasing the force through the block to give you some clamping pressure in the middle.

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Saving the offcut of bandsawn curves can be handy when clamping odd shapes. Blokkz clamping accessories are handy to have if you find yourself clamping weird shapes, angles, curves etc. Mine sit in a cabinet most of the time but they paid for themselves on the first job. Look at the Build journal for " Mahogany Library Rolling Staircase "  to see how I used them.

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24 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

Saving the offcut of bandsawn curves can be handy when clamping odd shapes. Blokkz clamping accessories are handy to have if you find yourself clamping weird shapes, angles, curves etc. Mine sit in a cabinet most of the time but they paid for themselves on the first job. Look at the Build journal for " Mahogany Library Rolling Staircase "  to see how I used them.

Ok those went on the Christmas wish list the second i saw them. I can see how they'd be useful in odd situations but they just seem like a flexible tool all around and the price isn't absurd like i was expecting. I also do have some bandsaw offcuts laying around but they hit the burn pile pretty fast usually. Also they don't appear to be making the pipe clamp extenders any more. Though i reckon i could make some of my own easy enough. I don't need a ton of force.

2 hours ago, AJ_Engineer said:

Instead of a bow clamp I have used a long board, sufficiently stiff, that in this case would run vertically up the side of the case. Clamp at the bottom then have it sticking above the top, put a block between the board and piece where you want the clamping pressure and add a clamp to the top pulling the tops of the board together, increasing the force through the block to give you some clamping pressure in the middle.

Yeah i thought about that. It's how I'd typically do it but with this being a bit more complete than most casework I've done getting everything balanced and clamped in time seems like a struggle. It's going to be the route i end up going. Though I'll probably just make a home made bow clamp. I'll add the long reach clamps to the wish list and hopefully buy them before i need them again which seems to becoming more and more often.

3 hours ago, Immortan D said:

You can add an extra parallel clamp at the center top. Just remove the head from the parallel clamp, fit it between the rails and reassemble the clamp.

I didn't think about taking them apart that will make things slightly easier.

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I got things glued together. It went very smoothly and i did have enough time to just use a caul along the sides. I hope it turned out square and doesn't wobble.

Opinion time.

Should i make the drawers out of all solid wood?

Or make the front out of solid and the drawer from ply? 

Or Make the front and sides from solid wood and the bottom from ply?

For some reason I'm dreading making drawers for this. It's not like it's something i haven't done and done successfully.

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9 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Make the front and sides from solid wood and the bottom from ply?

I'd go with this one. I think that cabinet of yours deserves some nice drawer sides.

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If you are using side mount drawer slides buid the drawer box out of ply. I use 5/8 Baltic w 5 mm dominos. 1/4 ply bottoms on every drawer except fine furniture with no slides &  hand cut dovetails. I build a complete drawer box and then apply the drawer front to it. Again , fine furniture & hand cut half blind dovetails would be the exception. 

Most pieces built to house equipment have a finite life unless the form is general enough that they can be re-purposed.

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39 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

If you are using side mount drawer slides buid the drawer box out of ply. I use 5/8 Baltic w 5 mm dominos. 1/4 ply bottoms on every drawer except fine furniture with no slides &  hand cut dovetails. I build a complete drawer box and then apply the drawer front to it. Again , fine furniture & hand cut half blind dovetails would be the exception. 

Most pieces built to house equipment have a finite life unless the form is general enough that they can be re-purposed.

It will be a traditional non metal slide drawer. I should have specified.

I know there is no time like the present to try hand cut but this is not that project for me. I don't even have a good dovetail saw and my tool budget has been completely diminished.

I'll probably go mechanically cut half blind but maybe I'll try something new with it.

56 minutes ago, Immortan D said:

I'd go with this one. I think that cabinet of yours deserves some nice drawer sides.

What i'm leaning towards, some times it's nice to have a solid wood bottom. It makes things more tricky but it does add a nice touch. Also if i do the solid wood bottoms it makes me organize them better to show off that they aren't plywood.

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8 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

some times it's nice to have a solid wood bottom

Might as well get some nice stock and re-saw and book match the bottoms.  Then you would need to be super organized so you can see the beauty of your effort. :)

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25 minutes ago, Chet said:

Might as well get some nice stock and re-saw and book match the bottoms.  Then you would need to be super organized so you can see the beauty of your effort. :)

Or maybe just keep them empty. Though i don't know if the girlfriend will quite understand that one.

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Man Drew that is one beautiful piece, nothing like walnut and cherry and the cherry looks like its turning color already and looking great. rabbit in the bottom of the drawers and glued and nailed in? or was it a dado?

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2 minutes ago, treeslayer said:

Man Drew that is one beautiful piece, nothing like walnut and cherry and the cherry looks like its turning color already and looking great. rabbit in the bottom of the drawers and glued and nailed in? or was it a dado?

Rabbet and glue is my go to for ply.

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Drawers and many other repetitive jobs are like that, right when you really get the hang of it your done .  Beautiful results ! 

Its fun to see behind the curtains. Wire management takes skill and plannning to accommodate so many connections.

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10 hours ago, wdwerker said:

Drawers and many other repetitive jobs are like that, right when you really get the hang of it your done .  Beautiful results ! 

Its fun to see behind the curtains. Wire management takes skill and plannning to accommodate so many connections.

I still have some work to do i need to fish one of the Ethernet wires in the wall for the access point that i want to wall mount on the highest level. I'd also like to try and tuck some of the cords under the carpet so they aren't just hanging along the wall.

 

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