Basement Project Journal


pkinneb

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On 9/29/2018 at 9:34 AM, pkinneb said:

Well the last two weeks have been spent...you guessed installing more wiring. Everything but the Bathroom and theater are now fully wired.

Run plenty of circuits to the equipment rack. You never know how much amplification you're going to want in future, especially for big subs.

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5 hours ago, drzaius said:

Run plenty of circuits to the equipment rack. You never know how much amplification you're going to want in future, especially for big subs.

I was planning on two dedicated 20 Amp circuits for the rack, one dedicated 20 amp for the projector, 1 dedicated 20 amp for the subs, and a 15 amp for lighting?  What do you think? If I should do more now is definitely the time.

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9 hours ago, pkinneb said:

I was planning on two dedicated 20 Amp circuits for the rack, one dedicated 20 amp for the projector, 1 dedicated 20 amp for the subs, and a 15 amp for lighting?  What do you think? If I should do more now is definitely the time.

If you get into serious bass, that's where the power is needed. Some of those amps take a 30 A circuit. I have a 30 A circuit that feeds my entire rack & that's more than enough. I also have a couple of 15A circuits available for future, but I don't really think I'll ever need them. Unless you get crazy, I think that will be plenty.

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12 hours ago, drzaius said:

If you get into serious bass, that's where the power is needed. Some of those amps take a 30 A circuit. I have a 30 A circuit that feeds my entire rack & that's more than enough. I also have a couple of 15A circuits available for future, but I don't really think I'll ever need them. Unless you get crazy, I think that will be plenty.

Thanks sir! Based on this I think I will run conduit from the drop ceiling in the rec area to the rack location that way if I need more in the future I can get there.

10 hours ago, mat60 said:

Enjoying your nice work. Wondering what you will using for heat?   Sorry if I missed it .

Matt I have in floor radiant heating as well as ducted heat and air throughout the basement. The bigger issue for the theater specifically is keeping it cool when the room is full and the equipment is all running. I am still working on the plan for the rack space but will post more when I nail that out.

On 9/30/2018 at 11:31 AM, Chestnut said:

Your probably going to hit the shores of Superior at about the right time. The Tamaracks were turning a nice yellow in the Bemidji area this weekend and the maples were nice bright beacons on the shores of the lake. Saw some snow already so the leaves are going to turn and fall fast.

Saw some nice color today north of Thunder Bay will share some pics when I figure out how to do it from my phone 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
14 hours ago, pkinneb said:

"I will be starting my decoupled theater walls this weekend and plan to use 3/4 recycled tire mat under the base plate. I will need this to be fairly straight and was thinking of cutting the 3 1/2" strips with my track saw, anybody see an issue with this? I don't want to adversely affect the saw."

Any thoughts /opinions on this?

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Rubber will foul a blade similar to pitch. Keep a cleaner handy. Run a magnet over the whole thing. Any radial steel might cause an issue. 

Far easier is to utility knife roofing rubber. I have done this a ton for deck sleepers over membrane flat roofing. Fact is, you might be able to knife cut tire mats. 

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What park are the first 2 pictures from?

Depends on the saw and the blade. It'll proably junk up the blade and throw some odd dust in the saw. For stuff like this i have a junker circular saw and would use a  strait edge guide. i'm missing 25% of the teeth on the blade from cutting through nails and screws so a little tire metal shouldn't slow you down. Circ saw blades are disposable imo esp when they are well under $10.

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To cut the rubber mats, I'd just use a utility knife, like we cut the mats in the barn. Put something under it where the cut line is, so that it wants to pull open at the cut.  For the mats in the barn, I used a 2x4 on edge, but I wasn't trying to cut narrow strips.  The trick is not to push down on the knife, or the rubber just wants to bind in the cut.  You do need sharp blades, so change the blade when it doesn't easily part the rubber.  You need to make multiple cuts, but with just the right pressure, you can get about 1/4" per pass.

This leaves no mess to clean up, and no stink to breathe.

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52 minutes ago, Tom King said:

To cut the rubber mats, I'd just use a utility knife, like we cut the mats in the barn. Put something under it where the cut line is, so that it wants to pull open at the cut.  For the mats in the barn, I used a 2x4 on edge, but I wasn't trying to cut narrow strips.  The trick is not to push down on the knife, or the rubber just wants to bind in the cut.  You do need sharp blades, so change the blade when it doesn't easily part the rubber.  You need to make multiple cuts, but with just the right pressure, you can get about 1/4" per pass.

This leaves no mess to clean up, and no stink to breathe.

I'll give it a try!

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8 hours ago, Tom King said:

As I cut the stall mats, I used my knees to push down on each side of the 2x to help open up the cut.  I'm not sure how you would do the same for narrow strips, but it will probably come to you while you're doing it.

 

2 hours ago, wdwerker said:

Those stall mats smell for several months no matter what you do. I would try to cut a 3" or 3 1/4" strip rather than trim any excess from a less than perfect cut.

Thanks guys! As usual I was over thinking it razor knife and a 2x4 worked great! Steve yep I went about 3 1/4 and that worked well.

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