treeslayer

Gentleman’s box for grandson

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9 minutes ago, davewyo said:

Nicely done.

How is it working with butternut?

Thanks Dave, It’s beautiful stuff, softer that walnut, but it tends to fuzz up when sanded, the cure is a coat of shellac then a light sanding

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1 hour ago, treeslayer said:

Thanks Dave, It’s beautiful stuff, softer that walnut, but it tends to fuzz up when sanded, the cure is a coat of shellac then a light sanding

Thanks, yeah I wondered if it was like walnut. The colors are certainly complimentary.

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Your grandson has a legacy box. It will always be with him. It will be a treasured item. Did you sign and date  it?

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1 hour ago, curlyoak said:

Your grandson has a legacy box. It will always be with him. It will be a treasured item. Did you sign and date  it?

Yes it is, my wife got me an electric branding iron about 20 years ago and a basic number and letter punch set from HF takes care of the date and year. 

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9 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

Dave, what is your process for making that inside roundover lip? 

Hey Ross, i just use a 3/8" core box bit in the router table and router them in before the box is assembled, just a couple of light passes to give something to grab when removing the boxes

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Dave, that is amazingly beautiful. I bet you can consider your core box lift stolen by many of us. The only thing I would have done differently, and I feel petty in saying this, is to use hinges that can be mortised into the back side of the box and back edge of the top. Either a 180* or something similar to Brusso’s 95* hinge. 

I’ve never given a thought to building something like this but will start tomorrow on one for my son and grandson. Care to share your dimensions? I too like working with Butternut and I have quiet a bit that I got from Rickey. Thanks for the idea of using shellac. 

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Dave, I'm about four years into woodworking and always wondering when I see something as complex as this; how was that done. One of those questions in your project was how did you get what appears to be a bevel in the bottom of the box before getting to the hidden drawer?

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9 hours ago, Coop said:

is to use hinges that can be mortised into the back side of the box and back edge of the top. Either a 180* or something similar to Brusso’s 95* hinge. 

Hey Coop, the dimensions are 11 1/2" wide, 7 1/2" deep and 6"tall, very similar to the sewing box i made for my granddaughter, as for the hinges, not petty at all, you caught me going cheap, the case thickness is 5/8" kind of limits my hinge choices, i ordered some Vertex 95 degree stop hinges for the sewing box and the quality was not good so i sent them back. hindsight is always 20/20 and i should have just bit the bullet. 

 

1 hour ago, Dave S said:

One of those questions in your project was how did you get what appears to be a bevel in the bottom of the box before getting to the hidden drawer?

i'm not sure what you're referring to Dave, are you talking about inside the box, if so that's an optical illusion where the butternut joins the walnut, if that's not it let me know and we'll straighten it out from there, thanks

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I splurged on some Horton hinges for the spice box I'm building. I searched the world over and thought I found the right hinges, ordered them, no, they sucked. So I spent $20 on the Horton hinges, excellent quality and as they say, you only cry once. I went for their $50 mortise lock too, which made me choke but dang, it's nice.

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18 minutes ago, Chip Sawdust said:

@treeslayer did you build the box then cut it open on the bandsaw or do a separate top?

Hey Chip, I wanted to keep the box joints true 1/2” all the way so the only way to do that was make separate sections and glue them together to maintain the 1/2”, more work but I’ve got nothing better to do

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Dave, did you make the finger joints on the ts or router table? 

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22 hours ago, treeslayer said:

i'm not sure what you're referring to Dave, are you talking about inside the box, if so that's an optical illusion where the butternut joins the walnut, if that's not it let me know and we'll straighten it out from there, thanks

Thanks for the clarification. Really gorgeous box btw.

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9 hours ago, Coop said:

Dave, did you make the finger joints on the ts or router table? 

Those are larger joints so I'm gonna guess the table saw. Watch me be wrong lol....

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Yeah TS, like I said I had to make 3 sections to keep the reveal right and also the top has a floating panel so it needed to have a stopped groove in it to accept the panel, not set up to do them on the router table, I could do them on the Leigh DR4 but the TS works so good with a homemade jig and the Forrest dado set its usually my go to for quick jobs. 

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2 hours ago, Chip Sawdust said:

Those are larger joints so I'm gonna guess the table saw. Watch me be wrong lol....

You’re right, what was I thinking. 

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