Immortan D Posted December 6, 2021 Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 I'm in the process of converting my full size router table into a benchtop one. Still in the planning stage though, so suggestions are more than welcome. The reason for the conversion is that the big table never gets used. It requires a lot of assembly steps before being able to use it, including but not limited to retrieving the table from storage, setting up the Incra fence, etc. Here's an old video of my table: It remains pretty much unchanged, I only added a t-track in front of the router plate. The plan is to remove material from all four sides, reducing its size by a considerable amount, get rid of the Incra Positioner, install t-tracks for a fence and make a new fence. I'm also considering riding the Incra fence on the new tracks, without resorting to the positioner. I think that might work and I will benefit from the built-in dust collection of the fence and all the accessories I already own. The problem is the length of the Incra fence, I will get a lot of overhanging and that will pose yet another storage inconvenience... The router plate will remain unchanged. I will make a box for the top to stand on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted December 6, 2021 Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 On 12/6/2021 at 9:37 AM, Immortan D said: The problem is the length of the Incra fence, It being aluminum excursion it should be easy enough to cut some off both ends, even if you had to do it with a hack saw with a new blade it shouldn't take to much effort. Or maybe you could get a local machine shop to take some of both ends for you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted December 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 On 12/6/2021 at 2:51 PM, Chet said: It being aluminum excursion it should be easy enough to cut some off both ends, even if you had to do it with a hack saw with a new blade it shouldn't take to much effort. Or maybe you could get a local machine shop to take some of both ends for you. I don't think I'm ready to make that decision, but if it comes to that I'd probably use my bandsaw. Perhaps selling the whole thing and getting a new fence for half the price would be a better choice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted December 6, 2021 Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 Yea, if there is no plan to ever use the Positioner again you may as well sell the whole thing. Selling it without a fence would probably be a no go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 My router has a dust collection attachment which I haven't been using: Is it worth the effort to connect both the fence and this attachment to the shop vac? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Dave H Posted December 7, 2021 Popular Post Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 On my router table my DC is inside a boxed in chamber the DC hose is attached to a Y that goes to my fence DC it works great I love it. Now is it necessary, probably not as I used my router in a piece of plywood that I made into a router table. I used it like this for at least 25 yrs (I was always going to build a proper router table but the make shift table got the job done) but the new table with DC and a nice fence with DC is the best makes me wonder why I waited so many yrs. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted December 8, 2021 Report Share Posted December 8, 2021 20 hours ago, Immortan D said: Is it worth the effort to connect both the fence and this attachment to the shop vac? I would say so. better dust collection and you won't always be using the fence. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted December 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2021 I was ready to start with this project but noticed that my router table top is not flat anymore. I blame the MDF, the weather and especially the woodworker, who didn't laminate both sides with melamine, just the top. I put some weight on it and will wait a couple of days, but I know it's no go. I guess I will have to make the new table from scratch. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 20, 2021 Report Share Posted December 20, 2021 Don't blame the MDF. I never seal the bottom of my router tables, but I support the surface. Most shops use PB for tops. Very stable product compared to MDF... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 20, 2021 Report Share Posted December 20, 2021 For tops PB is the correct material, but haters are going to hate it. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post BillyJack Posted December 20, 2021 Popular Post Report Share Posted December 20, 2021 As you can see, support under a large surface.. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted December 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2021 On 12/20/2021 at 1:16 PM, BillyJack said: For tops PB is the correct material, but haters are going to hate it. I'm considering making the new top from PB... I have and IKEA style desk in storage, I may use that material if it's still good, it's been there for two decades... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 20, 2021 Report Share Posted December 20, 2021 I can't say I hate pb for itself, but I certainly detest working with it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 20, 2021 Report Share Posted December 20, 2021 PB is a misunderstand product... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 I think that's my issue with it, @BillyJack. PB, MDF, and plywood are all 'products', and I really don't enjoy them like I do natural lumber. They are certainly the right choice for many applications, but that doesn't make them any more pleasant to work with, IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 You'd get over it quick as a cabinet maker.lol There are three materials I hate being without in my hobby shop, MDF, PB and masonite... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 The only fiber material I allow in my shop is the 1/8" hardboard stuff. I'll gladly get baltic birch and not ever have to deal with MDF or PB dust ever again. It could be the best material in the world but the dust and mess it make would still prevent me from using it. MDF used to have some cost savings but at $60 a sheet it's more expensive than BB ply now. I'll gladly pay less and get the weight savings from BB ply. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 7 hours ago, BillyJack said: You'd get over it quick as a cabinet maker.lol Boy, I bet! Fortunately, woodwork is just 'play time' for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 22, 2021 Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 Ply is just a necessary evil for some things and 1/4” mdf is good for layout and full scale designs but particle board is just plain nasty. Cover it with a woodgrain paper product and you’re now competing with IKEA. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 22, 2021 Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 I'll be IKEA all day if it put the kids through college.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 22, 2021 Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 1 hour ago, BillyJack said: I'll be IKEA all day if it put the kids through college.. Amen! But that's the difference between a job and a hobby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 22, 2021 Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 At the present time I do not do it as a living, it is now a hobby. I will always continue to use MDF, PB, masonite and any other material if the project calls for. As I believe Chestnut said one time, I bought a Domino because I don't always have time. I sometimes use PB, MDF, masonite, etc because I don't alway have money for the most expensive sheet goods. You can question the materials used, but you won't question the skill and joinery of its build.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 23, 2021 Report Share Posted December 23, 2021 4 hours ago, BillyJack said: ...but you won't question the skill and joinery of its build.. Never doubted that for a minute, I've seen some of your work. And those products are certainly the right choice in many cases. I just don't take pleasure in working with them, so I avoid it whenever I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby W Posted December 23, 2021 Report Share Posted December 23, 2021 I used two layers of 3/4" Baltic birch laminated together and covered with Formica top and bottom. I also added a couple of stretchers, one in each side of the cutout for the lift. Even with the weight of a Milwaukee 3 ho router and the router lift, it hasn't sagged. However, given my choice, I would have a cast iron table. Sawstop has an extension table for under $300 that may find its way into my shop soon. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted December 26, 2021 Report Share Posted December 26, 2021 The actual SS cast iron router table is also under $300. Or is that what you were referring to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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