Platform for a Bathtub/Loveseat

[Coop]

Back in the early 70’s, I made a love sear from an old claw foot bathtub. Keep in mind the date so I have no idea how I got the idea. We are about to get it re-upholstered for the forth time and I would like to raise it up from the floor a few inches to make it sofa level and easier to dismount. Toying with the idea of making a platform the same shape and dimensions as the bottom of the tub as opposed to a simple rectangle. The rectangle obviously would be easier to make. Any ideas? Excuse the shoes! 

[wtnhighlander]

It only needs to fit the 'footprint' that contains the claw feet, right? And needs to raise the seat 4 to 6 inches, or so?

How about a short trestle base, the feet of which echo / emphasize the claw feet of the tub? I'm imagining something beefy, like the feet of a big slab table, but no legs, just the foot structure. The tub feet rest on the feet of the base, maybe in shallow recesses to prevent them slipping off. The feet of the base would be joined  by one or two stretchers that mostly sort of hide beneath the tub. Would give you an opportunity to carve some big lion's claws, so win-win! 

[Chestnut]

That's a great idea. My only counter point is the feet look like they stick out from thee front edge of the seat. could create some massive toe stubbing issues.

[Mark J]

Coop, my suggestion is to set the love seat up on some 4x4 (2x4?) and see if you even like the look of the claw feet suspended in air.  It will give you a chance to see if the seating comfort is improved, too.

[Ronn W]

Just a thoguht.  When people stand from sitting their feet are often very close to the fron of the furniture and sometimes their heels are under the front edge.  I would some up with a solution that leaves the space beween the front legs empty.   Good luck.

[Immortan D]

Can't think of anything that will end up looking good... If it's not comfortable any more I'd let it go or recycle it into something else.

[legenddc]

Could you have the cushion made a bit thicker to help? If you could get a couple of inches from the seat I'm sure you could add some turned wood spacers under each clawfoot for another couple of inches.

[Ronn W]

What a great dog bed - Get a dog!

[Mark J]

Actually, two dogs!  There's enough room for both of them.  And you won't have to reupholster.

[Coop]

On 11/8/2022 at 11:32 AM, Immortan D said:

Can't think of anything that will end up looking good... If it's not comfortable any more I'd let it go or recycle it into something else.

That ain’t gonna happen. If my wife ever runs me off, this is the only item in our prenups that I asked for!  Don’t even ask what the price for the upholstery will be.  It is comfortable but it’s downsize is that where it is located in the room, the sloped back faces away from the tv. 

The trestle base is a good idea and would look good but a killer to clean around. The height difference from the top of the cushion and that of our sofa is 5” so making the cushion 5” taller wouldn’t look that good. 
@Ronn W, good point and I have taken that into consideration. The feet are set back about 2.5” from the edge of the seat. 
I was thinking of a platform base something like this. Excuse the rough drawing. 

[Coop]

So KISS. The design will be rectangular with a 1/2” lip to assure the tub stays on the platform. The tub is out for reupholster and will have it back before Christmas. I’m making the sides of the platform from some leftover walnut and the top from a slab of cherry that I’ve had laying around for years. Prior to the platform, I’ve had small circular furniture pads under the legs. The tub weighs a good 100 lbs. plus the weight of the body sitting in it. The platform will not go all the way back to the wall. I’m not sure there is a need for a bottom to this? My concern that since our floor is tile, that it will move back when someone sits or gets up. Anyone have an idea for a non skid durable material that I can add to the bottom? 

[wtnhighlander]

@Coop, I've used matetial from X-protector before, it works well.

https://www.amazon.com/stores/X-Protector/page/B244EAD7-7DE5-4B55-AE3F-746D71CC2FF0?ref_=ast_bln

You might have to cut to fit.

[Coop]

Thanks Ross, just ordered it. Looks like a great fit. 

[Coop]

So I got started on this yesterday. The cherry slabs were a little rough to say the least. Maybe the worm holes will make it interesting?

 

After ripping the 6/4 cherry slabs to length with the jig saw, I cut them to rough width on the bs. Then spent considerable time on the jointer and planer to get them to 4/4 usable boards. 

It’s amazing how different lighting angles will reflect different colors as shown in the next pic. After running the boards thru the ts to get glue up edges, into the clamps they went. After the glue dried, I ran it thru the drum sander and then got a better finish with the ros. Then filled the worm holes with epoxy.

The epoxy was later smoothed with a card scraper and sanded again with the ros to 180. 
All of my 3/4” walnut was less than the required 6” width so more glue.

The walnut was then cut to width and length. Box joints were then cut on the router table with a jig. The top will float in 3/8” x 3/8” grooves cut in the sides with additional support provided by 3/4” wide

cleats glued below the grooves. 
 

I’ll tackle the rabbets on the top tomorrow. 

[Coop]

I would like to have cut the dadoes out on the ts but due to the length and weight of the top, I decided on using hand routers.

The first cuts were made using a 1/2” rabbeting bit.

 

The remaining 3/4” was made using a plunge router, 3/8” spiral up cut bit and a straight edge, a little at a time.

Final sanding to 220 on the top and with it’s first coat of ARS. I will apply at least one more coat due to how much absorption the cherry has and follow with several coats of GF HP satin.

The back side and the two ends are now in clamps with the front side dry fitted to ensure it’s square. I did this to help me keep any glue from getting into the grooves the top will fit into. After the finishes have dried on the top, I will remove the front side, slide the top into place and glue front to the two ends. This will also give me more control of the glue set up.

 

[Chestnut]

The color on that cherry is making me drool. It's a lot darker and more vibrant than the commercial cherry I'm used to. Excited to se how this turns out.

[Chet]

On 11/29/2022 at 6:15 AM, Chestnut said:

and more vibrant than the commercial cherry

Yes, definitely some nice looking cherry.

[Coop]

This is the cherry tree being cut to length to get it back from Louisiana to Houston in 8/2014. It had been dead for a couple of years but still standing, leaning against a couple of tall pines.

And a bench made from it a few years ago. It darkened nicely.

 

 

[treeslayer]

Well done Coop, great to see you’re enjoying “retirement “ 

[Coop]

Thanks and absolutely! At least for me, retirement was at a juncture of mentally as well as financially ready! More mentally I guess as I still can’t afford walnut on a regular basis. 

[Coop]

Luckily a dry front came thru and dropped the humidity and I was able to get two more coats of ARS on the top. I slid it into the back and two ends and glued the front in place. As I couldn’t use figure 8’s, I made a couple of “buttons” to keep the top from shifting but allow for any movement. Thanks @treeslayer as I do pay attention! 

I made some blocks to fit into the corners and one for each side to accommodate @wtnhighlander‘s suggested non-slip pads.

When these come out of the clamps it will be time to knock down the proud finger joints and sharp edges and give the frame some finish.

[Mark J]

Playing cards?  ...to catch glue drips or shims?

[Coop]

To catch glue.

[Coop]

With one coat of ARS on the base. Probably won’t change much with additional coats until the tub comes back and is in place. 
 

[Chet]

The color of the cherry a long with its worm holes is going to look like it has been around as long as the tub.