Shaker Door Question


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I don’t know that to be a true question. Usually the panel is not as thick as the rail and style and centering the groove will give you the reveal that you’re looking for. If, for some reason the panel is the same thickness, then an offset groove is necessary.

After some thought, I think even if the panel and rails and stiles are the same thickness, I would still center the groove and off set the edge of the panel that fits into the groove.

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The example I've seen is the rails and stiles are 3/4" or 7/8", and the panel is 1/4". The slot for the panel is 1/4".

It was shown to offset the slot...maybe to give a different reveal(?)...a 1/6" or so. Actually, several of our cabinet doors are offset a tad, too.

I'm assuming it has something to do with the reveal. Just thought someone might know the reason. (I'm referring to a shaker door, not a raised panel door).

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Like @Coop I have always center mine regardless of the panel thickness. Since as woodworkers we have the ability to change many things including where the panel sits I would think someone was going with what they thought looked good which I personally would have no problems with. Although to me 1/16" sounds like you are asking for trouble where an accident could inadvertently bust the panel out but honestly probably just me over thinking it.

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I just looked at our kitchen cabinet doors and the groove is offset. In the case of my kitchen I think it's offset because on the non-shaker side the cabinet looks like a raised panel that they wanted to keep flush.

The few times I've made doors I center the groove.

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I've created doors with grooves that aren't centered when I want to control the reveal. In shaker furniture they use subtle design elements to make a strong statement. When the furniture is simple that is effective. The difference between an 1/8" reveal and a 1/4" reveal may not seem like a lot but it's substantial on a minimalist piece.

First piece is more shaker inspired and the reveal a modest 3/16" was matched from the side panel to the drawer inset. Personally I love the impact it makes but i'm HIGHLY biased. Wow it's odd seeing this dresser this bright it is MUCH darker now.

DSC_6458-01.thumb.jpeg.6c2bd2a4d497a85d7690c318f81b666d.jpeg

Not shaker inspired but the reveal on the door panels was closer to 1/8" to give the piece more of a flat front look while not being flat. Side panles were probably centered and likely over 1/4" reveal but wanted it that way with the leg design.

DSC_4904-01.thumb.jpeg.ee37052890f9aa911e2eaee4f737a38f.jpeg

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If this offset panel idea actually originated with the Shakers, chances are good they had a practicsl reason for it. By and large, their designs were driven by function, and guided by their philosophy of avoiding unnecessary adornment.

Although....I suspect some of the "necessary" adornments they chose to employ had questionable justification. :ph34r:

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On 1/18/2024 at 6:51 PM, Coop said:

@Chestnut, there have been so many journals on here and I bet you did one on the second pic but it’s much easier to just ask. Is the wood walnut? 

Yes walnut. Here is the post of the finished pictures if your curious and the journal. There are some clever bits in there but nothing earth shattering.

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What matters the most in woodworking most of the time is the face. So in making a frame and panel door I work from the face. I prioritize the profile before the groove that looks the best and let the back of the door take what is left. Most panel doors I use paired router bits. The bit includes a cutter for the groove. That cutter can be had in different dimensions. 1/4" also slightly less than 1/4 to acomadate 1/4 plywood. If the back side of the groove is too thin then I might plane the wood a little thicker. Bottom line I prefer to work from the face and accept the location of the groove. For me that also applies to doors made without a matched bit set.

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On 1/17/2024 at 5:59 PM, roughsawn said:

When you route the groove in the rail and style, why do you offset the groove that accepts the panel?

Why not just center the groove to accept the panel perfectly centered?

I position the groove relative to the thickness of the panel part.  That is, if I am grooving for a 1/2" panel in a 3/4" frame member and I want the panel field plane with the frame I put the groove centered 3/8" from the back.  I think about the field surface and where I want that relative to the plane of the frame surface.panel1.thumb.jpg.b2cc6b7181d752b86ef8de82338e344f.jpg

panel2.thumb.jpg.e4e743c958825ad5c995b4bf61bef84d.jpg

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