New pole barn shop progress


estesbubba

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Thanks guys. When we moved from town to our acreage almost 6 years ago, I went from a 24x24 garage to a 22x22. It doesn't sound like much but is almost 20% smaller plus I have more equipment now. I also seem to do larger projects now so the new space is going to be nice.

I honestly didn't think this would happen until I retired but some friends helped my over-thinking and put things in perspective. Most cars cost more than this shop and it will add value to our property and not depreciate like a car. Plus we can now use our garage as a garage again which will be nice.

Hopefully this thread isn't still alive in 2 years because that will probably mean I'm still finishing the inside! At least now I'm done waiting on other people and I can work on it.

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Got more done over the weekend than I thought I would and it would have been more if I didn't pick up and put together my new table saw. After paying for it 4 months ago and waiting for the new shop to have concrete, it was time for it to come home. Also having a puppy means 100% attention when he's awake unless you want stuff destroyed!

 

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I ran a lot of Romex for the wall circuits, asked if I had enough outlets, then ran some more! I still have to run for the lights, ceiling outlets, and outdoor outlets. Right now none of this is live except for what the electrician did. 

 

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Before starting on the insulation I used window foam insulation in the ridge gaps to help keep critters out of the walls.

 

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The R-19 insulation I got is in 5' x 41' rolls which is perfect as each of the sections between my posts is 10' x 10'. I cut two 5' x 10' sections and sandwiched between a 2x4 and 1x3 which made hanging a breeze with 2 people. 

 

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After that I put up the furring strips which was easy for the non-window walls.

 

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The windows walls will require a little more work (and maybe a lot more thinking, which is never good).

 

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There appears to be no vapor barrier under your roof metal the under side of the metal will sweat and, drops of water will get on equipment and cause moldy situations in ceiling insulation and sheeting (sheet rock,OSB, or plywood). In my neck of the woods we use 1 1/2" insulation bat between the metal and the framing and the metal, pulled tight to reduce sag this insulation has a white vinyl face this stops the condensation on the bottom of the metal. Some people sheet the roof with 7/16" OSB and,use tar paper as a vapor barrier between the metal and sheeting. If your walls have no vapor barrier they will sweat also and, the moisture will soak into the fiber glass bats which will cause a mold situation. Good luck with the shop I have a pole barn shop myself.

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You can see the vapor barrier to the left of my metal roof skin also the same VP on the side walls.
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Fantastic job! If your studs are 10' apart, then your joists are too. I guess you'll be using furring strips there as well for the sheetrock?

 

The spacing on my ceiling is 5x10. I thought about running 2x4s every 24" between the 5' span. Furring strips over would be easier but wonder if they would have enough strength?

 

are you not required to run electricity in conduit?

 

The wires above the panel are not live and won't be exposed.

 

There appears to be no vapor barrier under your roof metal the under side of the metal will sweat and, drops of water will get on equipment and cause moldy situations in ceiling insulation and sheeting (sheet rock,OSB, or plywood). In my neck of the woods we use 1 1/2" insulation bat between the metal and the framing and the metal, pulled tight to reduce sag this insulation has a white vinyl face this stops the condensation on the bottom of the metal. Some people sheet the roof with 7/16" OSB and,use tar paper as a vapor barrier between the metal and sheeting. If your walls have no vapor barrier they will sweat also and, the moisture will soak into the fiber glass bats which will cause a mold situation. Good luck with the shop I have a pole barn shop myself.

You can see the vapor barrier to the left of my metal roof skin also the same VP on the side walls.

 

 I will have a vapor barrier between the insulation and OSB

The UTS plans are awesome, have you shared them on here before?

I wish I saw them before I built my miter saw station.

I built it quite a while ago and don't believe I have.
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I would check before you hang anything from your trusses that they were designed to carry that load.  For my building, it was something I had to specifically ask for when ordering my trusses.

I had my trusses engineered for a ceiling load but, I think that was just an on paper adjustment because it didn't seem to me that there was any extra webbing I had a 36' clear span so the 2x6 bottom cord doesn't seem to me to be overbuilt, so if your inspection is finalized a ceiling load probably would be fine. 

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