WTO Rite of Passage: Roubo Build Thread


bgreenb

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Brian that bench looks great and if I didn't just watch the shim video last night, wouldn't have noticed it. Once you get oil on it and stand at normal height it will look normal. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to do something with mine as my back slab is currently 1/32" thinner and about 1/16" bow along the face. 

PS - If you don't have a Festool sander that 150/5 in the Marketplace is an awesome machine and help ease your sanding pain.

Edited by estesbubba
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Brian that bench looks great and if I didn't just watch the shim video last night, wouldn't have noticed it. Once you get oil on it and stand at normal height it will look normal. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to do something with mine as my back slab is currently 1/32" thinner and about 1/16" bow along the face. 

PS - If you don't have a Festool sander that 150/5 in the Marketplace is an awesome machine and help ease your sanding pain.

Thanks Mike.  Agreed that when you look at it from standing height it's barely noticeable unless you know it's there.  I actually do have a 150/5 (and CT26) already - and it's magical for sure....but sanding still sucks :)

One other thing I'll say as a piece of advice for Mike and anyone else tackling this build - spend some time thinking about the height of the bench, since it's you can't really (easily) change it after the fact.  My bench is going to end up at about 38.5" after flattening.  Maybe a little more.  I'm tall (6'3) and have long arms, and I spent a good amount of time experimenting with bench height to figure out what was comfortable with me.  I have intermittent back pain and wanted to minimize the amount of hunching over that I'd have to do. 

I assume you've got your slabs on the sawhorses (or similar) right now.  Once you have the tail vise installed, use some scraps to change the height of the slabs on the sawhorses, and then clamp a board and do some planing.  Then get a stool and sit down for some chiseling, etc.  Take the time to figure out what's comfortable for you.  No matter how tall you are, what works for someone else of the same height might not work for you.  Everyone is different.  Take the time to figure it out.

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Finally decided to bite the bullet and do some sanding.  That is, all of the sanding.  I took the bench top to 150 grit, being very careful to use a light touch and not dish it out.  I checked with a straight edge and everything remained flat and coplanar.  I took the base to 220, only because I didn't have any 180.  I also broke all the edges on the entire bench.  First time using the apron plane, and it was a joy.  Took about 2 hours to do all the sanding, but I'm glad it's done now.  The bench looks beautiful.

I then decided to tackle the deadman, which was fairly straightforward.  I used a chunk of 8/4 walnut because why the hell not.  I cut the deadman runner and the notch exactly how Marc did in his videos, then cut the rabbet on the end and drilled a bunch of holes.  Easy peasy.  Although apparently my 3/4 boring bit is total garbage, because it was giving me crazy runout.  I had to switch to my 3/4 forstner bit, which isn't ideal for all these through holes, but at least they're nice and clean.

Here is where we stand now:

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I haven't glued the runner on yet because it was too cold for the glue to set.  I also need to cut out the shape of the deadman.  I'm planning on applying finish on Thursday because it's supposed to get up into the high 50's around here, so I figured I should take advantage of that to try to get the danish oil to dry.

After that it's just the gap stop, dogs, suede treatments, and holdfast holes in the top.  Getting there!

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Can't wait to see it with oil on it - that walnut is going to pop!

Did you do your front rail following Marc's plans or the updated wider rail from Benchcrafted? I'm not using the knockdown hardware and that 3/4" deep tenon doesn't seem like it would cut it. Maybe I'll go thicker front rail but longer tenons. 

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Can't wait to see it with oil on it - that walnut is going to pop!

Did you do your front rail following Marc's plans or the updated wider rail from Benchcrafted? I'm not using the knockdown hardware and that 3/4" deep tenon doesn't seem like it would cut it. Maybe I'll go thicker front rail but longer tenons. 

I followed Marc's plans. The BC plans deal with wrapping the joinery around the criss cross mortise. Seemed like an unnecessary complication. I just followed Marc's plans and cut the tenon short once I had all the joinery cut. Marked where it entered the criss cross mortise and cut it off there. Tom did the same. It's what I would recommend. 

Had a few minutes tonight so I drilled all the holdfast holes in the top and glued the deadman runner to the front rail. All the remaining steps are so tedious. 

EF1C893B-37EE-4C26-A8AC-4F9E63F7020D_zps

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I agree the BC seems like unnecessary complications. I'm debating whether to use my Leigh FMT for the legs and rails. The plan calls for 5/8" x 2" M&T and it can do 1/2" X 2" which is a little smaller but pretty much same long grain glue surface. It sure would save a lot of time rounding over tenons. 

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