Skjohn98 Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 I am just getting into wood working and building a work bench with some MDF, can it be sealed, and what would you use john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 Depends in your definition of 'sealed'. I'm partial to shellac, but a poly if some sort will be more durable for a working surface. I suggest thinning it well, and applying multiple, thin coats. What sort of activity will this bench be used for? For some things, MDF may be a less than ideal choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 18 minutes ago, Skjohn98 said: I am just getting into wood working and building a work bench with some MDF, can it be sealed, and what would you use john Something other than mdf that sounded crass and didn't mean for it too but I wood consider another material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 I've had a triple layer mdf bench top for years. I used water based poly on it, and its been pounded relentlessly. Still holding up just fine! Its edge banded with 3/4" by 2.25" hard maple. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skjohn98 Posted March 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 I understand MDF is not the best but this is my first project, I can always replace the top, but lack of experience and proper tools tells me to start with the MDF. Learn and get better and more knowledge with each project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 3 minutes ago, Pug said: I've had a triple layer mdf bench top for years. I used water based poly on it, and its been pounded relentlessly. Still holding up just fine! Its edge banded with 3/4" by 2.5" hard maple. I stand corrected. Thanks Pug! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dknapp34 Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 My first bench was three layers of mdf, edge banded with oak and topped with a layer of hardboard. The hardboard is cheap and can easily be replaced when it gets too beat up. Plus if protects the mdf in the event of a spill. It obviously had its limitations, but it was pretty heavy and did well enough until I got further into woodworking and started getting the Roubo itch. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 If you are going to use MDF follow Pugs example and use solid wood around the edges. Support the top not only around the edges but at least every 12 to 16 inches in the middle too. MDF will sag if not supported .Use several coats of poly on all sides ( especially the bottom) water based is fine and dries faster usually . This will prevent the MDF from absorbing moisture and swelling. Its dense and heavy which is good for a bench. If it's what you already have started with it will do pretty good if sealed, edge banded with solid wood and supported. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 29 minutes ago, Skjohn98 said: I understand MDF is not the best but this is my first project, I can always replace the top, but lack of experience and proper tools tells me to start with the MDF. Learn and get better and more knowledge with each project i got the basic plan and idea for that bench from FWW. you can prob find it on their website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 51 minutes ago, Pug said: I've had a triple layer mdf bench top for years. I used water based poly on it, and its been pounded relentlessly. Still holding up just fine! Its edge banded with 3/4" by 2.25" hard maple. OK pug so let's see the bench today, not the day it got done * ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post RichardA Posted March 4, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 4 hours ago, Brendon_t said: OK pug so let's see the bench today, not the day it got done * ) So it get's beat up over time, isn't that the definition of a "work"bench? If you make a bench that looks like furniture, you will go out of your way to keep it pristine, Somehow that just doesn't seem like a place to "work" . When you look a the pics of Roubo's benches, they look like they are getting beat to hell by all the children doing all the rough work for the craftsmen. No one is sitting back admiring how beautiful the bench's are, their being worked on by ham handed young'uns! Jeez, build what you feel works, and make the pretty go out of the shop, not into the shop! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 7 hours ago, Brendon_t said: OK pug so let's see the bench today, not the day it got done * ) I'll take a pic later today for you. Or you can check out any of my projects in the journal section. I used it for all of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddclippinger Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 When I built my work benches, I approached it with the mindset that the tops are disposable and can be replaced. They will naturally get a lot of wear. I did one layer of plywood with one layer of MDF and topped it with countertop laminate. Your MDF top will be fine if you edge it with hardwood like PUG did and seal it. The edges take a beating and that is where MDF will break down quickly. You can seal it as PUG did or also apply a sheet of laminate. That stuff is tough! If you use white or light colored laminate you can draw all over it with a pencil and "erase" it all with a wipe down of lacquer thinner or mineral spirits. Sometimes I draw things out in full scale right on the laminate top. I have been using my tops for a good 10 years professionally and they still are going strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 6 hours ago, RichardA said: So it get's beat up over time, isn't that the definition of a "work"bench? If you make a bench that looks like furniture, you will go out of your way to keep it pristine, Somehow that just doesn't seem like a place to "work" . When you look a the pics of Roubo's benches, they look like they are getting beat to hell by all the children doing all the rough work for the craftsmen. No one is sitting back admiring how beautiful the bench's are, their being worked on by ham handed young'uns! Jeez, build what you feel works, and make the pretty go out of the shop, not into the shop! Clearly the wink was lost in translation. I forgot we can't rib each other on here any more. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 1 hour ago, Brendon_t said: Clearly the wink was lost in translation. I forgot we can't rib each other on here any more. Sorry my friend, there was no wink in that diatribe! Just truth! That wasn't a dig on any bench, just my feeling about a workbench! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 7 hours ago, toddclippinger said: When I built my work benches, I approached it with the mindset that the tops are disposable and can be replaced. They will naturally get a lot of wear. I did one layer of plywood with one layer of MDF and topped it with countertop laminate. Your MDF top will be fine if you edge it with hardwood like PUG did and seal it. The edges take a beating and that is where MDF will break down quickly. You can seal it as PUG did or also apply a sheet of laminate. That stuff is tough! If you use white or light colored laminate you can draw all over it with a pencil and "erase" it all with a wipe down of lacquer thinner or mineral spirits. Sometimes I draw things out in full scale right on the laminate top. I have been using my tops for a good 10 years professionally and they still are going strong. Do you find the laminate slick? Is the work moving around any concern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddclippinger Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 Just now, Pug said: Do you find the laminate slick? Is the work moving around any concern? I have not found it to be a problem at all. There is a very light texture on basic white laminate. It is extremely durable. I also used laminate on my miter saw table for use working on job sites. I can make notes on it and mark lines for repetitive cuts. It provides a lot of protection if there is mild rain or snow. (if it rains too much I am packing it all in.) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skjohn98 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Guys thanks for all the info but just wondering what and how would you seal it john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddclippinger Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 6 minutes ago, Skjohn98 said: Guys thanks for all the info but just wondering what and how would you seal it john Over the years I have sealed MDF with water base, oil base, and pre-cat lacquer, they all work. Actually, if you frame out MDF with maple and seal it, the maple frame not only protects the edges but the contrast of the light maple against the darker MDF looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 MDF is great for jigs, ok for bench tops and awful for kitchen and bath areas because it will get wet sooner or later & swell up & die. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 9 hours ago, Skjohn98 said: Guys thanks for all the info but just wondering what and how would you seal it john Staying on original topic is rare around here. It's fine though, good conversation to be had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 On 3/3/2016 at 9:01 PM, Skjohn98 said: ...this is my first project, I can always replace the top... MDF is so cheap it really doesn't matter if you seal it right now or not. Make the bench and use it for a bit. I'd leave the top bare, and just wrap the edges as Pug has done... Be sure to leave some small access holes, so you can push the old top off when it needs replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 11 hours ago, Skjohn98 said: Guys thanks for all the info but just wondering what and how would you seal it john I think the question was answered. You can use pretty much anything to seal MDF. Shellac, lacquer, water borne poly, oil based poly. I'd probably use shellac or General Finishes High Performance waterborne poly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Like Pug, I had an MDF bench; 4 layers of 3/4" laminated together. I treated it with BLO followed by paste wax. I would have to refresh the wax every few years. Glue popped right toff and it took a load of use without problems. If I did get a serious ding I would just fill it with leftover epoxy the next time I was using some and then pare it flush with a chisel prior to full cure. I did make the mistake of trying to save a bit of cash by using BORG kiln-dried fir for the frame. Despite being stickered in my shop for a couple of months the material continued to shrink and distort. I was able to work around it but, after accounting for the waste due to poor product, I could have used some poplar or other inexpensive wood from a reputable lumber yard and spent no more money; lesson learned. Here's the surface after about 5 years of use: I thought of this bench as an intermediate step in my journey and it was just that. The surface worked so well, I stayed with it for my next bench. I wanted a longer span between supports although a shorter overall length) and so went with 2 layers of 3/4" BB ply laminated to two layers of 3/4" MDF on top. I used poplar for the base this time and maple for the balance of the vise jaws and trim. I used the same BLO followed by paste wax method that worked so well for so many years. It has been in use for under a year but, I am already very pleased with the shorter length (I kept the 30" depth). It has remained dead-flat which provides a nice reference surface for many tasks. The twin screw is a joy after dealing so long with vises that rack. Once I decide on the end vise (designed for another twin screw but the jury is still out) I will add more dog holes for that function. You can see the original bench in the lower right corner of the pic. I gifted this to a woodworking acquaintance who was in need . . . good bye old friend. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Great looking bench, that was very kind of you to pass along your old bench. I retired my old bench to finishing duty. Spill some varnish, who cares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.