..Kev Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 14 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Got back to work on this for a bit this morning. I have the hinges all mortised in for the left-side doors, and attached with a single screw each. I found one to be rubbing against the bottom of the frame, so I glued a strip of sandpaper to a straight board and worked it down to fit. The doors close now, but not together. I still need to chamfer the edges so the corners don't interfere as the doors swing through their arc. Then repeat on the right-side doors. I wanted to quote your post and get it over here on a fresh page Awesome work Ross! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 Well, here's a good example of not thinking quite far enough in advance. On the last door, there is a knot right on the edge of where the hinge mortise lands. I had already "stabilized" it with CA glue, but didn't notice it would interfere with the hinge. I think I will try to chisel out the mortise, and see how firm the knot really is, before I cut it out and glue in a patch. If this weren't a painted piece, I would never have included the knot to begin with. Probably shouldn't have, anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 8 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: Well, here's a good example of not thinking quite far enough in advance. Part of the fun of woodworking can be coming up with a solution to a problem we didn't see when it was a pile of lumber sitting on the floor. The whole thing is coming out great Ross. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 Cool.build.Ross 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 This morning I drilled and countersunk 160 holes for the screws that hold the shiplap on the back. Then I started round 1 of sanding. O, joy. Call for opinions: I plan to use a magnetic catch at the top corner of each door. How should that affect placement of the door pulls? Centered in the length of the style seems best to me (visually), but would moving them toward the top be better to offset the force needed to release the catches? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted July 26, 2016 Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 The project is looking great, Ross. I think you will be fine with the pulls in the center. The magnetic catches aren't that strong. How did it work out with the mortise for the hinge where the knot is? Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted July 26, 2016 Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 If the door rails are lets say 4in wide, than I would install the door pulls 4in down from top of the door myself. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 The project is looking great, Ross. I think you will be fine with the pulls in the center. The magnetic catches aren't that strong. How did it work out with the mortise for the hinge where the knot is? Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Shane, I pared it out with a chisel, very carefully. Seems to be stable, so I am forging ahead with it. Might soak a bit more CA into it as I sand. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 You could put a magnet at both top and bottom of the doors, yeah? Either way I think the placement of the pulls is moot in the context of magnets and I'd do whatever looks best. You're doing a great job on this, Ross...I've been silent but following along. Now finish the damn thing up so we can get a look at it, jeez. You work slower than I do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 3 hours ago, Eric. said: You work slower than I do. Yea, and he doesn't even have the handicap of working with a friend that is on the phone all the time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 You could put a magnet at both top and bottom of the doors, yeah? Either way I think the placement of the pulls is moot in the context of magnets and I'd do whatever looks best. You're doing a great job on this, Ross...I've been silent but following along. Now finish the damn thing up so we can get a look at it, jeez. You work slower than I do. Top and bottom magnets is an interesting idea, but I don't want to have an obstruction to books / DVD cases / whatever being slid off the bottom shelf. I'm leaning toward magnets at the top only, and pulls at the mid-point of the rails. Believe it or not, I HAVE been working on it. I just figured pictures of my ROS would be uninteresting. Want a video, instead? ? I am approaching the point of applying some shellac to seal the surface. Followed by more sanding, of course. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 Here is the glue block I put ender the top shelf, for the magnets to mount on. We now return to our regularly-scheduled sanding. I have to use Harbor Freight moving blankets on my bench, to avoid adding new dents & scratches to this soft pine as I work around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 I managed a couple of hours work in the shop this afternoon, but it is just too hot to do much. I have completed the initial sanding, and applied a coat of shellac as a sealer. Next, I need to recheck the fit of the doors, and get the magnet latches located Obligatory progress photo: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 It's coming along nicely! You're almost there Ross! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Looking fantastic dude. As your son is a railroad fan, have you considered using date nails in the build? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Looking fantastic dude. As your son is a railroad fan, have you considered using date nails in the build? Very interesing idea, Ken! However, I've never run across a source for those. Know of one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Out of nothing else to do, years ago, I collected them. Even bought a book showing old rr tracks in my area and pulled them from the rr ties. Let me see if I still have some and will pm you for your address and send them to Ya. They were driven into the ties when laid so they could see later, how old they were. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted August 12, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 Just to prove this project isn't totally dead, here are a couple of recent pics: Assembling the back so I don't misplace anything while I work on the top. And rough layout to get pieces of the necessary size (note the chalk). I put some effort into finding pieces that were straight-grained and defect-free, no easy task with the Cletus wood I'm stuck with. Then my wife says "I LIKE the wood with some character". 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 I have to say, this ripping sled gets me straight and parallel edges much faster than using my dinky jointer. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted August 12, 2016 Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 4 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: I have to say, this ripping sled gets me straight and parallel edges much faster than using my dinky jointer. That is almost identical to the one I built, though I don't even have a jointer. I put a little return on the near side that serves to support the base of the board. Probably not needed, but its there. I'm becoming a big fan of jigs that reference directly off the fence like this. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chet Posted August 13, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 10 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Then my wife says "I LIKE the wood with some character". Yu would think you were enough character for her for a life time. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said: I have to say, this ripping sled gets me straight and parallel edges much faster than using my dinky jointer. I made a 10ft jig just like that ! Then I got a Trackaw and the clamps were cannablized for other jigs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted August 15, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 I managed some milling time yesterday. Always a hassle, because of the noise and mess, so I try to work out in the driveway. Halfway through jointing the second board, the sky decided to fall on me, rather suddenly. So I had to drag everything back into the garage. At least the wind was calm, so I could work just inside the door, with the 735 aimed outside! Here is the panel in clamps. I used TBIII to take advantage of the dark glue line on the walnut. ...and out of the clamps. I had just enough time to clean off the squeeze-out and do a bit of smoothing. There was no way to really grain-match anything, given my Cletuswood supply. I did well to have the top not showing any sap! Given that we spent the weekend scouring the local furniture stores for a new club chair, I saw plenty of evidence that mis-matched "wood grain" (using a very loose definition of wood) is all the rage right now, so I claim trendiness. Just to make myself fell better. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elroy Skimms Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 On 8/12/2016 at 7:31 PM, wtnhighlander said: I have to say, this ripping sled gets me straight and parallel edges much faster than using my dinky jointer. I'm actually about to make a sled like this for my own table saw. The Aspen I have for cabinet drawer boxes is missing the SL part of SL1E. I was thinking about using a giant T-track and clamps but your idea is much simpler. Plus, my original plan would be limited by the length of the t-track. I can't clamp a 10' board on 8' of t-track. But I can clamp a 10' board on an 8' sled like this, with some overhang. -E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 I had to fill a few defects in the top, with epoxy, like this: Then, a lot of work with card scraper. Boy, are my thumbs tired! Now, this panel is too wide for my planer, and I have no drum sander, so to level it, out came this bad boy from B&D - Next, I used a large chamfer bit to create the profile for the bottom edge. Still need to final sand, but I threw the top onto the case to check the look. Progress. Slow progress. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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