Basic Tool Chest


shaneymack

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For years and years i had the old beige lee valley one. It got so caked in glue it was time for a change. So naturally, I bought the festool one because it came in a mini systainer. Now this goes against eveything inside me to say but I believe there is a better apron out there! Lol. I will be changing it for the newer veritas one. The festool one has all open pockets and im sick of cleaning the sawdust out of them. I have my control for my dust collection in there and my ear protection and I hate having both always full of dust.

So the important things to look for are that there are atleast some closed pockets and that the shoulder straps criss cross and join the waist strap so all the weight isnt always on your neck.

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I'm gathering 2 things from this.

1. Festool dust collection is poor enough that your pockets are filling with sawdust.

2. Festool made an inferior product.

I'm shocked i feel like we need to take you out back for 50 lashes for blasphemy.

Ya sounds about right =)

This might come as a shock but I do own tools other than festool !

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5 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I'm gathering 2 things from this.
1. Festool dust collection is poor enough that your pockets are filling with sawdust.
2. Festool made an inferior product.

Hmmm...  I thought it was that Shane failed to hook his CT 36 up to his apron...

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Got a little time in the shop today. I started by notching the edges of the frames. The frames were just butted against the front of the dados, when the case moves you would see inside the dado hence the 1/8" notch.

Needed to move the frames forward to the dark line

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Used knife to mark the cut

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Set the marking gauge to 1/8" and marked out the depth of cut

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Sawed on the line

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The i put my chisel in the marking gauge line and chiseled away the waste

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Nice fit. Right on the line

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And tight to the case

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After the three frames were done I made sure they were all in the same plane

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Now to make the lid stop for the bottom. The lid is 3/4" and i want a 1/16" reveal when the lid is installed so I set my square for 13/16" and clamped the piece in place.

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Then I transferred the front of the frames measurement to the lid stop

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Marked out the profile I wanted

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And cut it at the tablesaw

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This might be hard to explain but I'll give it a try. The first 1/8" reveal will be flush with the bottom drawer front. Because of the angle cut on the tablesaw that 1/8" was crooked. I needed to square it up. So i took the cut off

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Reversed it and put it against the angle to have a flat reference and used the shoulder plane to square it up back to my line

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Put the lid stop in place and double checked to make sure that when it was in place at my 13/16" mark that the 1/8" reveal would line up perfectly with the bottom drawer front. Like a glove...

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Front view of the profile. Bottom part is where the lid will rest against and the upper section is the 1/8" reveal for the drawer front

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Now i needed to make some brackets at the top of the case for the lid to rest against that would be in line with the bottom lid stop.

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They will be glued on the upper frame on either side like so

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Checked for alignment with the bottom stop. Its about 1/64" too far back. No one will notice that when the lid is in except me of course....

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Made a second bracket and refined them both with the 13 grain

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Glued up the bottom frame. Side pieces have the grain running in the same direction as the case so it can move with the case.

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Uhh... I was told there was supposed to be a basic tool chest build in this thread. Did I left-click the wrong way?

Haha! This made me laugh out loud! Its basic in the sense that its a box with a few drawers.

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As always, your attention to detail is palpable.I like the step by step walk through for us mortals.

I sincerely hope your painter did a bang up job.

Thanks Brendon! The painter is my buddy. He is always willing to come paint at my place anytime I need. In return i did his basement and changed some windows at his place. When we move he will also be painting our entire house ! Thats alot of crappy work that i wouldn't want to do.

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Good job with the explanation. I like the beveled transition idea. That will be functional & sleek ! 

Looking forward to seeing more !

Thanks John !!

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Have you ever wonder how fast you could finish a project if you weren't taking time to explain in such detail and teach us knuckle heads how to be better woodworkers.

Haha !! Well it only takes a couple seconds to take a picture so it doesn't really make it any longer. =)

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Ok - I always thought of Canadians as laid back, beer drinking, moose loving folks with maple syrup in their veins. Shane - you're blazing through this build at a pace that makes me think you lot might be manic, quad-shot-espresso drinking, busy-beaver loving folks with nitrous in your veins.

The tool chest is of course looking great

 

Haha! Thanks! No I'm not super laid back. If i leave a pencil on my outfeed table and have to walk 4 feet to get it im annoyed that i lost productivity. Thats why i wear an apron with all my main tools in it. Im broken man what can i say ! Lol

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I'm really digging this box, Shane! The design is ine I may have to steal at some point, and you have been incredibly helpful in providing instructions on how to do so.Glad you aren't my banker ....

Thanks Ross! I don't understand the banker comment....

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You make it soooooo easy to steal ....

Shane, your speed and accuracy are beginning to give me feelings of inadequacy. I spent half an hour this morning just deciding if I needed add another rail to support the top of the cabinet I'm working on. Never got past marking lines on the wood...

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Quick question..  Did you set up that grain pattern in the panels on purpose or was that a happy accident?  All the cathedrals starting from the bottom of the panel looks cool!

Lol. Ya it was very calculated. Didn't turn out as well as I wanted but it looks good. I wanted all the cathedrals centered but my stock width didn't allow that. So i made the left panel have the cathedral more on the left and the right panel cathedral more to the right.

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42 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Looking great, that picture of your thumb made me cringe when i read the description. That's probably one of the worst feelings. I bet it made your thumb feel better when you saw the door together.

Keep sharing the great work.

Thanks Chestnut! Felt better as soon as i put the piece of tape on, amazing how that works !

39 minutes ago, Brendon_t said:

Screw sanding the blood out, frame it as is.

I would if it was mine, but its for a friend :)

38 minutes ago, -MattK- said:

Nice work, Shane!  Glad I read the text, those panel barrels looked like a rabbit pooped in your hand ;-)

 

Thanks Matt ! Rabbit poop, panel barrels, same diff !

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Looks awesome Shane. I like the walnut guide you used to slide along your tall fence. I guess that gives it more stability and easier to hold eh?

Thanks John. Ya the walnut strip kinda acts as a runner. I was pushing the two clamps and not the actual panel. It helps with not having the panel drop down into the wider section of the throat plate where the blade guard enters the table.

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Shane, that is very nice work! I like the red line to mark the groove locations. Where did you get that marker? Also, were you using a combo, or rip blade to nibble away the tenon cheeks? Mine always come out rough with a combo blade.

The pen i am using is the pica indellible pen. I have the pencil and the pens. They are awesome.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=71121&cat=1,42935,42936,43509,71121

Im using the sawstop titanium combo blade. One thing that helps a little with the roughness is once I'm done nibbling i slide the piece left and right over the highest part of the blade. Don't tell the safety police please....

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