shaneymack Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 13 minutes ago, Brendon_t said: So shane, am I understanding it right that the wide frame you just made with the panels will be the front cover of drawers (?) That will lift up and slide above the first drawer but under the lid? Exactly. It will have two brass pins that keep it in place in the bottom and a full mortise lock at the top. And yes, when the chest is being used the lid will slide into the 7/8" lid slot above the first drawer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post JosephThomas Posted April 13, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 9 hours ago, shaneymack said: Exactly. It will have two brass pins that keep it in place in the bottom and a full mortise lock at the top. And yes, when the chest is being used the lid will slide into the 7/8" lid slot above the first drawer. This "shop furniture" you are building is nicer than most of the stuff in my house. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post shaneymack Posted April 17, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Spent some time this week figuring out what finish I'm going to use. This tool chest will be for a tradesman and will most likely be kept in his car. Needless to say I need a tough finish. So I was looking for something that could withstand the abuse this thing is going to take and something preferably waterbourne because I want spray. I wanted something that didn't rob the wood of all its warmth like waterborne products normally do because I did not want to start with an oil first and then wait forever for it to dry before spraying. So i did a sample board with 4 finishes. The first 2 finishes are what i wanted my finish to look like in terms of warmth; general finishes Arm r seal and watco danish oil. The last two finishes were the waterborne finishes I was wanting to spray; general finishes exterior 450 and enduro var. Here is a picture. *From left to right; ars, watco do, ext 450, enduro var. I was really impressed with the enduro var. You can't tell that this finish is not an oil based product. It also self leveled almost as well as Arm r seal but that's hard to beat in that aspect. Arm r seal and the enduro var were pretty similar up to three coats. Once i hit the fourth coat thats when the enduro var started looking like there was actually a top coat on where the arm r seal still looked like wood. I still really liked the look of the enduro var either way. I sprayed one coat today on all the interior frames and the interior of the case because its so much easier than trying to do this once its glued up. I have to say that this stuff sprays as well as any waterborne or solvent based pre cat I've ever used. Its levels sooooo well. Doesn't dry as fast but it turned out great, I'm really impressed. A monkey could spray this stuff. I also sprayed the 3 panels before glueing up the lid so there will never be a line where the finish ends if the panel contracts. I took the time to prep for the drawers. Started by fitting the drawer fronts to the openings. I used my low angle jack to fit the height I dialed in the length on the shooting board Since the drawers and dividers are all continuos grain it really looks uniform. I like way it turned out. The dividers almost seem like part of the drawer fronts. I got all the poplar milled up for the sides amd backs as well. Next time in the shop will be dovetailing the drawers. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Looking great, Shane. Thanks for sharing your finish sample board, it is a good illustration for the different finishes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Beautiful precise work, can't wait to see more. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Love the finish test board.. I hadn't used the endure var before but, may have to give it a shot.. Great work as usual Shane! The attention to detail is awesome! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted April 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Love the finish test board.. I hadn't used the endure var before but, may have to give it a shot.. Great work as usual Shane! The attention to detail is awesome! Thanks Kev! if you love the warmth of ars and something that sprays super easy this is the stuff! I'm pretty excited about this stuff except for the price. Like most things we get pretty ripped off up here. I paid 47$ plus tax for a quart and a gallon is 133$. I think its worth it though ! The last can of waterborne pre cat I bought was 75$/gallon but this enduro var will hold up much better than a lacquer. Do you spray your finishes Kev? Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 3 minutes ago, shaneymack said: Thanks Kev! if you love the warmth of ars and something that sprays super easy this is the stuff! I'm pretty excited about this stuff except for the price. Like most things we get pretty ripped off up here. I paid 47$ plus tax for a quart and a gallon is 133$. I think its worth it though ! The last can of waterborne pre cat I bought was 75$/gallon but this enduro var will hold up much better than a lacquer. Do you spray your finishes Kev? Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Yep.. Fuji Q5.. Although, I will be the first to admit that's it's easy to be lazy and just use ARS because it's so simple and looks really good. I am a fan of the GF stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Looking great Shane! i think you will be happy with the EnduroVar....other than its cost. its a bit spendy down here also but a great finish. I sprayed some kitchen cabinets I made for my mother in law few years back and they have held up great. Good durable finish. I had thinned the EnduroVar 10%, sprayed it with HVLP gun. It lays out so nice. I liked that I was able to build up 3 coats in a reasonable amount of time. I think it will be a good durable wb finish for a pice that will get daily use. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted April 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Looking great Shane! i think you will be happy with the EnduroVar....other than its cost. its a bit spendy down here also but a great finish. I sprayed some kitchen cabinets I made for my mother in law few years back and they have held up great. Good durable finish. I had thinned the EnduroVar 10%, sprayed it with HVLP gun. It lays out so nice. I liked that I was able to build up 3 coats in a reasonable amount of time. I think it will be a good durable wb finish for a pice that will get daily use. Thanks Alan. It's good to hear of your experience with it and especially that it's holding up well! Why did you thin it? Was your machine having trouble atomizing it? I fell like if i thinned it it might actually start to get a little runny. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 22 minutes ago, shaneymack said: Why did you thin it? Was your machine having trouble atomizing it? I fell like if i thinned it it might actually start to get a little runny? Yah it wasn't atomizing. Im sure it was the setup/conditions. it was the first time I tried spraying a finish. I sprayed in my garage, before I renovated it with lights, insulation, heat, in the middle of winter. Had a Kerosene heater which was struggling to keep up so it was on the edge of to cold to use a wb finish. But I wanted to get my feet wet so I grabbed one of those, brace yourself, Harbor Frieght HVLP guns and ran it off my pancake compressor with an aux tank. It was a 30$ setup and worked just fine for the cabinet doors I was spraying. It laid out nicely with no drips or issues. goes to show that this finish is pretty forgiving as far as environment and technique. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted April 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Why did you thin it? Was your machine having trouble atomizing it? I fell like if i thinned it it might actually start to get a little runny? Yah it wasn't atomizing. Im sure it was the setup/conditions. it was the first time I tried spraying a finish. I sprayed in my garage, before I renovated it with lights, insulation, heat, in the middle of winter. Had a Kerosene heater which was struggling to keep up so it was on the edge of to cold to use a wb finish. But I wanted to get my feet wet so I grabbed one of those, brace yourself, Harbor Frieght HVLP guns and ran it off my pancake compressor with an aux tank. It was a 30$ setup and worked just fine for the cabinet doors I was spraying. It laid out nicely with no drips or issues. goes to show that this finish is pretty forgiving as far as environment and technique. Hah! Getting good end result with those conditions does say alot. Wow ! Do you still spray with the same setup? Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 42 minutes ago, shaneymack said: Hah! Getting good end result with those conditions does say alot. Wow ! Do you still spray with the same setup? Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk No. Last winter I got the go ahead from HQ that I could fully convert our garage into a workshop. It's been a long process so I have not done any spraying. The garage has a new slab, sub panel, insulation, appropriate amount of lights and a natural gas heater that pulls air from outside to combust with. I have a larger compressor with plenty of CFM to spray but have not fully set it up with the proper filters driers ect to spray. Also on the list before another spraying project is a nice gun. It's slowly getting to the top of the list....maybe later this summer In the mean time I have just been using ARS or other wipe/brush on finishes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Coming along nicely!! Very clean work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Those raised panels look great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 I'm impressed with your lack of burning on the ts raised panels. Any time I have tall buried cuts like that, it's blade burn city. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted April 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 12 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Looking great, Shane. Thanks for sharing your finish sample board, it is a good illustration for the different finishes. 5 hours ago, Bart said: Beautiful precise work, can't wait to see more. 3 hours ago, Acer Cletus said: Looking good Shane. nice job keeping the grain centered on the panels 1 hour ago, Llama said: Coming along nicely!! Very clean work. 4 minutes ago, Immortan D said: Those raised panels look great! 1 minute ago, Brendon_t said: I'm impressed with your lack of burning on the ts raised panels. Any time I have tall buried cuts like that, it's blade burn city. Thanks guys ! Brendon the only reason there was minimal burning was the walnut runner I used at the top of the aux fence. Since the panel was clamped to it there was no way for the panel to move at all and cause burning. I dont even have a great blade on there, just the sawstop blade., 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 4 minutes ago, shaneymack said: Brendon the only reason there was minimal burning was the walnut runner I used at the top of the aux fence. Good tip. I'm going to try that next time I need to do some. I've gone shy of doing them the easy way because the cleanup is slower than doing multiple passes on the router table. Thanks man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted April 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Brendon the only reason there was minimal burning was the walnut runner I used at the top of the aux fence. Good tip. I'm going to try that next time I need to do some. I've gone shy of doing them the easy way because the cleanup is slower than doing multiple passes on the router table. Thanks man. Because i absolutely loathe cleaning up raised panels i will probably try doing them all by hand next time. Even the little burning there was was a pita to clean up while maintaining the perfect angles in the corners. Oh and there was also the blood that needed to be sanded out =) Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjk Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 +1 on all the kudos for doing and then posting the sample finish board. It's really useful to have that to see the difference between those finishes. I haven't used Endurovar yet either - but it looks like I should Did the cleanup on the raised panels entail more than a quick pass with a smoother? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 7 hours ago, shaneymack said: Because i absolutely loathe cleaning up raised panels i will probably try doing them all by hand next time. Even the little burning there was was a pita to clean up while maintaining the perfect angles in the corners. Oh and there was also the blood that needed to be sanded out =) Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Shane, by hand do you mean just using a hand plane? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted April 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 44 minutes ago, K Cooper said: Shane, by hand do you mean just using a hand plane? Yes, with a plane. A little longer to raise the panel but hopefully it would be finish ready off the plane 52 minutes ago, sjk said: +1 on all the kudos for doing and then posting the sample finish board. It's really useful to have that to see the difference between those finishes. I haven't used Endurovar yet either - but it looks like I should Did the cleanup on the raised panels entail more than a quick pass with a smoother? Thanks Im glad that is helpful! The smoother alone doesn't cut it because you cant get into the edge of the center raised profile. I used the smoother and then switched to the shoulder plane to get up against that edge. I got a little tear out with the shoulder plane and it also wasn't easy making the transition between where the smoother passed and the shoulder plane passed absolutely perfect. Thats when I got annoyed and switched to the sandpaper. I am going to get the veritas moving fillister for the next set of panels I do. It has a nicker that enables it to score when going cross grain and the blade is skewed to help prevent tear out. And of course its another reason for me to "need" another plane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 1 hour ago, shaneymack said: Yes, with a plane. A little longer to raise the panel but hopefully it would be finish ready off the plane It sounds like you could cut it shallow allowing it to burn if is going to then come to finished depth with the lajp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted April 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Yes, with a plane. A little longer to raise the panel but hopefully it would be finish ready off the plane It sounds like you could cut it shallow allowing it to burn if is going to then come to finished depth with the lajp. Not if you want that 1/16"-1/8" raised lip transition into the center. It needs to be a plane like the moving fillister that has the blade the extends a thousanth or two out the side of the body to get in that corner. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjk Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 I've got that Veritas skew rabbet plane - it's a keeper for sure. You could also try a rabbeting block plane... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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