Tool Chest Build


pkinneb

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Thanks Guys!

Finished the drawers today. First had to cut the back DT's they were different then the others in that they stop short so the bottom can be slid in.

TC 63.JPG

TC 64.JPG

TC 65.JPG

Made one error on the top drawer the lock actually was larger then the width of the face above the dado...thought of cutting it off or cutting a grove.

TC 67.JPG

Decided to go with the groove should be fine

TC 68.JPG

Then I glued them up and planed them to their final size

TC 69.JPG

TC 70.JPG

TC 71.JPG

I was surprised how much the glue swelled the DT joints they look pretty good between the glue and planing everything flush.

I have a question I have never used solid wood bottoms before do you just glue the front edge or do you go down the side an inch or two as well?

Also I need to drill a slot for the screw in the back. On a 11 3/16" wide pine panel how much movement can one expect? Will a 3/16" - 1/4" slot be enough?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good.  That butternut has a warm look to it.  I would try to make sure that shows through any finish you do.  Nice fix on the lock/dado situation.  I also fasten drawers at the rear and would go with a 1/4" at least.  depending on your screw size that is really not much room to move.  I opt for an open ended slot (or two on wider drawers).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, pkinneb said:

Perfect! Thanks for the info guys!! gee-dub I like your suggestion I will do open slots and go with two screws. Dave do you glue the fronts? or just screws in the rear? Thanks again.

I just fix the rear because it allows the base movement so no glue to the base to drawer on front or sides, but that's just me. Others may advise differently.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, davestanton said:

I just fix the rear because it allows the base movement so no glue to the base to drawer on front or sides, but that's just me. Others may advise differently.

Great thanks!!

6 hours ago, Jim DaddyO said:

Wow!  Just found this thread and you are doing some fantastic work.  Love it!

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok folks this chest has really pushed me in my woodworking, which is a good thing, I always like a challenge so I have decided to add one more by inlaying my hand written initials and date into the underside of the top. The top is made with rails and stiles with two square raised panels that are about 9." So i played around with the scroll saw my wife and kids got me for fathers day and think I can make this work.

Here are the tools for the practice runs (4 so far) spray adhesive, Ca glue, spray accelerator(not shown) pattern and the 1/8" wood blanks. The top will be butternut so I am going to go with pine for the inlay as that is what the dividers are made of in the till.

TC 72.JPG

I put a dot of CA in each corner on the bottom board and sprayed the accelerator on the corners of the top board.  Then just stick them together. Then I sprayed adhesive on the pattern and affixed it to the blank.

TC 73.JPG

To set up the scroll saw just tilt 5 degrees to one side and as long as you go the right direction the cutout will fit tight into the opening. It took me 3-4 tries to get it right but here are a couple samples.

TC 74.JPG

TC 75.JPG

Not to bad the scroll saw will take some practice but for now I think this will turn out fine. I need to get some drill bits designed for scroll saw blades to get rid of the holes or figure out a good way to hide them. Any thoughts or suggestions on that would be appreciated.

Next up will be the top...

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Chet K. and shaneymack!!

Well didn't get as far as I hoped today but progress non the less. made all the dividers for the top drawer that took waaay longer than I thought it would but its done and I think it will work out well for me. I was able to get everything in that I was planning on.

 TC 76.JPG

I did start on the lid...

TC 77.JPG

Tomorrow I will finish up the lid bridle joinery. I ordered some small scroll blade drill bits today so hopefully they don't take to long to get so I can get the inlay work done and finish off the lid.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/27/2016 at 6:13 PM, pkinneb said:

I need to get some drill bits designed for scroll saw blades to get rid of the holes or figure out a good way to hide them. Any thoughts or suggestions on that would be appreciated.

Whittle down a "toothpick" of walnut and glue it in there. Obviously that would leave you an end-grain plug which will take the finish differently than face grain, but it's pretty tiny and may not show. Try it on scrap and see what you get... at the same time put a dab of glue into a similarly sized hole and sand over top. I'm not sure they will look much different but it's worth a test.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, davewyo said:

Whittle down a "toothpick" of walnut and glue it in there. Obviously that would leave you an end-grain plug which will take the finish differently than face grain, but it's pretty tiny and may not show. Try it on scrap and see what you get... at the same time put a dab of glue into a similarly sized hole and sand over top. I'm not sure they will look much different but it's worth a test.

Thanks Dave i tried the glue trick but was not happy with the results but I have not tried the plug suggestion so I will give that a try

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today I cut all the joinery for the lid unfortunately I forgot to account for the raised panel groves while cutting the bridle joints :angry:

TC 78.JPG 

TC 79.JPG

TC 80.JPG

Since I did not have any more 7/8" butternut to redo them I have decided to use some English Oak Square pegs which will match the drawer fronts and the wedges on the side through DT's. I think it will look fine and if it really bugs me I can try and source another piece of butternut.

TC 81.JPG

I'll cut them a 1/16" proud like the other joinery. 

Since the panels are on hold waiting for some scroll saw supplies I decided to knock out some remaining little items the two pieces for the hemp cord that will hold the lid open as well as the mount for the fret saw. Need to figure out a "pin" or something to keep the saw from falling out in transit any suggestions would be appreciated.

TC 82.JPG

Should have the scroll supplies Monday so hopefully I can complete the chest in the next week or so.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This set up is too cool.

For the fret saw, how about boring a hole through the C-shaped hook that holds the frame. It should line up with a void in the frame. Glue a magnet in the bottom, and cut a bolt so it drops into the hole and is held by the magnet. Use a longer bolt that is only threaded at the end. Cut off the threads, you'll have a smooth pin with a convenient 'knob' on top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 49 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Forum Statistics

    31.2k
    Total Topics
    422k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    23,773
    Total Members
    3,644
    Most Online
    rojmwq4e
    Newest Member
    rojmwq4e
    Joined