bgreenb Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 I'm with Mike. I'm not a fan of the strip, and if I were you I would go all curly maple but with ebony plugs. I do think you need the contrasting species for the plugs, and there is no better choice than ebony. Like Eric said, you won't need very much...a little goes a long way. It will be a tiny fraction of the price of materials for this project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 19 hours ago, bgreenb said: Seventy... Try these guys: http://www.curlymaple.com/category_s/101.htm They have several 10/4 boards with heavy figure. I bought some boards from them for this project: wow that is some amazing look curly maple!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 I'm not going to lie to you guys: I bought the 10/4 board but also added a couple of other pieces to my order that I couldn't pass up. I have no immediate plans for the other pieces. I figured that they wouldn't add much to the shipping cost so I might as well get them. Does this make me a wood hoarder? I've never purchased wood without having a specific purpose for it. The first step is admitting that I have a problem. I'm not there yet. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 Just now, SeventyFix said: I'm not going to lie to you guys: I bought the 10/4 board but also added a couple of other pieces to my order that I couldn't pass up. I have no immediate plans for the other pieces. I figured that they wouldn't add much to the shipping cost so I might as well get them. Does this make me a wood hoarder? I've never purchased wood without having a specific purpose for it. I did the same when I ordered from them. They also threw in a few shorts free of charge that I have put aside for keepsake boxes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 20 minutes ago, SeventyFix said: I'm not going to lie to you guys: I bought the 10/4 board but also added a couple of other pieces to my order that I couldn't pass up. I have no immediate plans for the other pieces. I figured that they wouldn't add much to the shipping cost so I might as well get them. Does this make me a wood hoarder? I've never purchased wood without having a specific purpose for it. The first step is admitting that I have a problem. I'm not there yet. Dude..."a couple of other pieces" does not a wood hoarder make. You should see my shed. LOL Until your lawn equipment is sitting out in the rain under tarps because you have nowhere to put it...you're a wood lover, not a wood hoarder. I'm fairly certain that there will be a point in the not-so-distant future that I'll be forced to stash some wood under my bed for lack of storage elsewhere...I'm running out of room, for reals. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 Not to keep teasing you, but I probably have the piece of ebony you need for the stripe. I'm a low level hoarder. Eric has serious problems. That guy hoards poplar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 16 minutes ago, Llama said: Not to keep teasing you, but I probably have the piece of ebony you need for the stripe. I'm a low level hoarder. Eric has serious problems. That guy hoards poplar. Do not! Although if I ever stumble upon a great batch of curly poplar, I will buy that and hoard it. At some point there will be a COD begging for fine drawer sides and bottoms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 6 hours ago, Eric. said: Do not! Although if I ever stumble upon a great batch of curly poplar, I will buy that and hoard it. At some point there will be a COD begging for fine drawer sides and bottoms. Or a good batch of curly MDF 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 3" x 3" x 18" Ebony was probably a blank meant for a clarinet. The ones that aren't suitable for instruments get passed down to the woodworker market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2017 I have been travelling for work lately. I'm finally home. All of the wood and tools have been delivered. Here's the general process that I have used for past projects: Find out how much wood I need for a project. Order that wood, plus 20% extra. Start the project, make a few mistakes, discard some of the wood due to defects, etc. Run out of wood. Restart at step 1. I really wouldn't recommend it. This time I bought enough wood for 2-3 chairs. I did this with the knowledge that I really love figured maple and I know that I'll use it in other projects. I built a serious shed out in the yard last fall and have plenty of storage space. I won't run out of wood on this project and I'll have a lot to choose from when selecting for grain direction and figure. This is a figured chair - it kinda all has to go together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2017 Here's the stack of boards. Mostly 8/4, 8 foot long. One 10/4 board in the front. As you can see, it's all in a rough state. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2017 Here's a second piece of 10/4 big enough for both arms and the headrest. I'm not sure how figured it is at this point as it's in a super rough state. I was going to pass it across the jointer to see what I had. But the piece is very twisted. I think that the smart thing to do is to wait until I'm ready to cut the individual pieces and then straighten and plane the smaller boards. Removing the large amount of twist from the larger board will remove significant thickness from the 10/4 board. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post SeventyFix Posted May 19, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted May 19, 2017 I'm hoping the figure is good - it looks like there's curl pattern going right across the width of the board. With so much nice wood in stock, I decided that it was time to step up security a little at the hacienda. Not taking any chances! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 Template cut out and shaping is complete. Nothing too exciting here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 20, 2017 Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 What a great place to work...those big windows and a view of a garden. Jelly. I think you'd find your bench considerably more versatile if you pulled it away from the window by about two feet (if possible). I'm constantly working on the back side for some reason or another, and it's better for assemblies/glue-ups. Something to consider... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 I am concerned about the templates - the lines are thick and somewhat rough. The angle on the sides of the headrest template don't match each other. I cut each side with the same setting on the Kapex (flipping the work piece over). Input from someone who has used these plans is greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 9 minutes ago, Eric. said: What a great place to work...those big windows and a view of a garden. Jelly. I think you'd find your bench considerably more versatile if you pulled it away from the window by about two feet (if possible). I'm constantly working on the back side for some reason or another, and it's better for assemblies/glue-ups. Something to consider... Eric: Yeah, I'd love to do that. You're 100% right. It's a small garage shop. There's enough room to stand between the bench and a car parked beside it. This area experiences damaging hail storms so I keep one car in the garage. I've been seriously thinking of selling this car as I don't drive it much. I really like the car and it's hard to let it go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 20, 2017 Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 2 minutes ago, SeventyFix said: This area experiences damaging hail storms Same here...but that's what insurance is for! Priorities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 Shoot, I just watched the end of the second video. Marc doesn't cut the ends of the headrest template until later. I might be redoing this piece in the future, we'll see. I'm moving on to rough cutting the parts from lumber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2017 Coopering The Seat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2017 This was easier than I thought that it would be. Notice the numbering system. The first board contained an internal flaw that was only discovered during milling. I don't want this color streak to appear when the seat is carved out. Grain pattern starting to appear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 To rout the joints in the seat, I used a block before and after the cut. The result: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 I'm not a big fan of the router. It's a violent tool with sudden consequences. After watching the videos and some help from ShaneyMack, I developed the strategy. I set the bit depth for the maximum that I wanted to achieve. All of the boards are equal in thickness so they all receive the same depth of cut. With my fore and aft scrap pieces in place, I routed at full depth, taking very shallow passes (think 1/8"). I kept taking passes until the bearing was riding on the tenon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 I used the same technique for the smaller front joints: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 In the video series, the explanation given for the scrap wood at the end of the cut is to prevent tear out. The wood fibers of the work piece are supported by the scrap wood block. It works perfectly. I used an additional scrap block at the start of the cut to support the router base and guide the bearing on the router bit. I have a tendency to hang on to the router with a grip of death as it spins at an ungodly RPM. Occasionally, the guide bearing slips past the start of the cut and clips the corner. See below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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