Maple Sculpted Rocker


SeventyFix

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29 minutes ago, SeventyFix said:

I appreciate all of the encouragement.  After some time off, a lot of soul searching and gin, I've decided to make another leg and keep going.  I'm heading back out to the garage to make another leg.  At least I only ruined one.  By the end of today, I'd like to have another leg made with the adder block glued on.  

Hang in there man. Show this project whos boss. 

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I cut a new leg to replace the one that I cut way too deeply.  My suggestion is to take a scrap cut off (there's a lot of them laying around at this point in the project) and cut the dado on it.  Doing that allowed me to familiarize myself with the process and dial in the best fit possible.  I made 3 cuts in a test piece before getting it just right.  The micro adjustment on the depth gauge on the Festool router really helped in this regard.  It's possible that other routers have the same feature.

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I am a big fan of the "just make another one" approach.  If I could get back all the time I wasted trying to "fix" something only to be dissatisfied with the repair . . .

There are things you can save and things you can't.  Despite the impact to supplies, time or your pocketbook . . . in the end you will be happier you did it right.

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Today's job is to put the round over on the rear legs and fit them onto the seat.  Thankfully I have an existing chair leg that I can use as a test piece. Marc does more trimming of the rear legs with the bandsaw, he cuts an angle on the top of the legs to accomodate the headrest and he cancels out the 6 degree slant in the rear legs with an opposite cut to the bottoms.  I think that he drills the holes for the screws for all of the legs. I'll be happy if I can get all of that done today, which shouldn't be a stretch.

After that, I believe the arms are next.  I'm on break from work this week - first time off in a long time.

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Here's a screen capture from Marc's video series.  Notice the arrows as this demonstrates an area where I am now experiencing difficulty.  Don't make the same mistake that I did.  Notice the top arrow: Marc has left the adder block fairly thick.  I ended up cutting mine somewhat thinner.  Leave the adder block as thick as possible.  You'll notice in the video series that Marc cuts off the minimum amount from the adder block with the 6 degree jig on the table saw.

Notice the lower arrow.  It's not immediately obvious from the picture but the leg curves back towards the fence.  If you cut your adder block too thin (as I did) then the leg will contact the fence.  I can't get it to rest against the fence at a 90 degree angle as the leg interferes with the fence.  I'm going to try adding a shorter sacrificial fence to my existing fence to allow for the clearance of the leg.

Rear Leg Roundover - Marc.JPG

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14 minutes ago, SeventyFix said:

Here's a screen capture from Marc's video series.  Notice the arrows as this demonstrates an area where I am now experiencing difficulty.  Don't make the same mistake that I did.  Notice the top arrow: Marc has left the adder block fairly thick.  I ended up cutting mine somewhat thinner.  Leave the adder block as thick as possible.  You'll notice in the video series that Marc cuts off the minimum amount from the adder block with the 6 degree jig on the table saw.

Notice the lower arrow.  It's not immediately obvious from the picture but the leg curves back towards the fence.  If you cut your adder block too thin (as I did) then the leg will contact the fence.  I can't get it to rest against the fence at a 90 degree angle as the leg interferes with the fence.  I'm going to try adding a shorter sacrificial fence to my existing fence to allow for the clearance of the leg.

Rear Leg Roundover - Marc.JPG

Not sure if you solved this but you could make a quick fence out of plywood short enough on that side to be inside the leg. Just cut a notch for the bit and clamp the plywood fence to the table.

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As pkinneb suggested, the solution is straight forward.  I took a scrap piece of plywood, cut it in half and attached them to either side of my router fence using double-sided tape.  The plywood was cut to about 1.75" in width, allowing for plenty of clearance room for the leg. 

20170817_105602.jpg

20170817_105543.jpg

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Seventyfix, your next piece will probably be fitting the headrest, I found it helped to clamp a piece of scrap between the rear legs to keep them from splaying apart slightly as you fit the headrest.  Marc makes it look a lot easier than it is to fit this piece, go slow taking very small cuts sneaking up on the fit.

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2 hours ago, Cheeset202 said:

Seventyfix, your next piece will probably be fitting the headrest, I found it helped to clamp a piece of scrap between the rear legs to keep them from splaying apart slightly as you fit the headrest.  Marc makes it look a lot easier than it is to fit this piece, go slow taking very small cuts sneaking up on the fit.

I appreciate the advice - I need all I can get.  I will keep this in mind.

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An issue that I encountered was that the surface of the rear leg that joins to the arm wasn't perfectly flat.  In the future, I would spend extra time making sure that the template is perfectly flat in the areas that will become a joinery surface.  This should be obvious to me but wasn't until I started mating the arms to the rear legs.  Just something to keep in mind.

20170818_142458.jpg

20170818_142556.jpg

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