SeventyFix Posted August 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 On 8/18/2017 at 8:09 AM, Cheeset202 said: Seventyfix, your next piece will probably be fitting the headrest, I found it helped to clamp a piece of scrap between the rear legs to keep them from splaying apart slightly as you fit the headrest. Marc makes it look a lot easier than it is to fit this piece, go slow taking very small cuts sneaking up on the fit. I'm working on the headrest now and I used Cheese's idea of clamping a scrap piece between the legs to limit their motion. I took larger cuts that I should have and went a little past the cut. 3/8" past the 9" line from the top of the leg, to be exact. Question: Does this matter? I don't think that it does. But can others please advise who have completed this project? Thank you. It actually looks relatively decent. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 27, 2017 Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 Looking good! As long as the fit is good (looks like it is) you'll be fine. That's the benefit of cutting the part to fit your project! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted August 27, 2017 Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 Looking good! Those are some nice tight joints right there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted August 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Thanks. The joints are all very tight. I have really taken my time trying to get things as close to perfect as possible. The clamping pressure on the top of the chair is super light. Believe me, I'm no stranger to crazy clamping pressure to make things fit right! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 The headrest has been cut. I used a piece of 10/4, per the plan. My 10/4 was pretty rough, and I likely jointed and planed a little too much off of it. I wasn't able to get the full curvature of the headrest - there is a slightly flat spot on the back of the headrest. I don't think that it's going to be noticeable when the headrest is fully sculpted. I went with a headrest design that looked decent to me - not a super deep sweep but not shallow either. When I looked at my chair, I found that it looked similar to Marc's design. I had an issue earlier where I cut the headrest a little too much. It ended up being 3/8" lower than the mark. After fiddling with the fit, I squeezed the legs every so slightly together and got the whole thing to line up and fit properly, at the correct mark. As Cheeset202 pointed out, there is quite a bit of play in the rear legs - take care to handle that during your build. The headrest is screwed in tight. The result is below. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 I'm kind of bummed about the next step because it involves completely disassembling the chair! What! We just put it together! I wish that I had found Spax screws with the Torx heads on them. I haven't had a problem (or any reason to complain) about the Phillips Spax screws. They were the only ones that I could source locally and on Amazon. It might be just the geek in me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 And I'm still waffling about using a different wood species as an accent (for the plugs and in the runners). This decision doesn't keep me up at night ... but it's close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 28 minutes ago, SeventyFix said: I'm kind of bummed about the next step because it involves completely disassembling the chair! What! We just put it together! I wish that I had found Spax screws with the Torx heads on them. I haven't had a problem (or any reason to complain) about the Phillips Spax screws. They were the only ones that I could source locally and on Amazon. It might be just the geek in me. Don't know if you would want to switch now but for future reference there is a brand of construction screw called GRK. They have many styles and sizes, torx drive, auger tipped etc. also sold at HD, Lowes, and most home centers / lumber yards. They are great fasteners to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 10 minutes ago, Alan G said: Don't know if you would want to switch now but for future reference there is a brand of construction screw called GRK. They have many styles and sizes, torx drive, auger tipped etc. also sold at HD, Lowes, and most home centers / lumber yards. They are great fasteners to work with. ...and Amazon. Just used these on some sculpted bar stools. The chair looks really nice that wood is going to pop when finished. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 The video does not state the size of drill bit used to make the holes in the seat. I'm assuming that it's the same size as in the headrest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 11 minutes ago, SeventyFix said: The video does not state the size of drill bit used to make the holes in the seat. I'm assuming that it's the same size as in the headrest? WOW NO! I checked the next video (making the spindles). The top of the spindle is 3/8" - where it inserts into the headrest. The bottom of the spindle is 1/2" - where it inserts into the seat. So the seat needs 1/2" holes. I'm smarter than your average bear. Not necessarily your average person - but definitely bears! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted September 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 I'm working on the spindles now - this is a HUGE job! My bandsaw tends to wander. Maybe it's a setup issue. I don't really enjoy messing with it. My original cuts didn't turn out that well. I lined them up and struck a line across them with a framing square. As you can see, there were discrepancies where the shoulders should meet evenly. The one where it is so pronounced was due to an error that I made. I decided to bring them all into a standard size rather than lose that spindle (it has very nice grain). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post SeventyFix Posted September 4, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 A half hour later on the spindle sander and everything is lining up nicely. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted September 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 I don't really like the spindles with the "X" marks on them. They're not as figured and have an odd color. They came from a second board (the rest came for a nicely figured board). I'm thinking about making another spindle or two to replace them. Technically I have 1 extra spindle. But if I get rid of 2 of them, I'm actually 1 short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post SeventyFix Posted September 4, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 Here's everything sanded to 120 grit; a light coat of mineral spirits has been applied to bring out the grain. I'm looking at the boards at this stage, trying to decide where they're going to go in the chair. The "X" spindles look somewhat nicer than I earlier thought. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted September 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 They should look even better when sanded to a finer grit and finish is applied. I'm going to use a method that Marc has described in the past. I believe that he dissolves dye in shellac and applies it to the wood. It is applied and sanded off about 4 times, each time dyeing the open grain more deeply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted September 4, 2017 Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 37 minutes ago, SeventyFix said: Here's everything sanded to 120 grit; a light coat of mineral spirits has been applied to bring out the grain. I'm looking at the boards at this stage, trying to decide where they're going to go in the chair. The "X" spindles look somewhat nicer than I earlier thought. Wow those are stunning!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick S Posted September 4, 2017 Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 Really beautiful job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Very nice work, shaping those spindles. Between that level of detail, and outstanding material selection, this chair will be killer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Super nice work! I think the spindles took more time than the rest of the chair combined! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheeset202 Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Seventyfix, the spindles are outstanding, now wishing I was building mine out of the Curley maple instead of Walnut, next one I guess. I just got my spindles cut today, start sculpting next weekend, they are a bunch of work! By the way, your headrest came out great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted September 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 Thanks all. I spent tonight making 2 more spindles, bringing the total to 10. I wasn't thrilled with the color on 2 of the first set. I'll have more to choose from when assembling the chair. It took all of my after work time to get 2 spindles to the point that you see them here. The spindle video is 20 minutes long. The current state of the spindles is at about the 5 minute mark on that video! The spindles are a lot of work. I've spent more time on the spindle sander making these spindles than at any other time. I've really come to understand what a great little tool it is. I was not previously using it to its full potential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted September 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 I love this Roubo (TWW Roubo) workbench. It makes everything easier. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted September 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 In the video series, Marc strikes a line 1/8" down from the front face of each spindle, down each side. In addition, a line is drawn straight down the center of the front face. He uses those lines as guides for rounding the front face of each spindle. Marc proceeds to round the front face with a rasp. Yes, that works. But it was really wearing me out! I switched to using a spokeshave, which I HIGHLY recommend if you have one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeventyFix Posted September 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 First I make a chamfer along the edge of the board, down to the 1/8" mark on the side. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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