Tool ID help?

[Denette]

Ishitani Furniture on YouTube has this thing:

He uses it to cut tenon cheeks mostly.  It’s incredible.  He adjusts the fence position and table height, and the blade stays in place. He scoots the wood forward and pulls it back, and bam, perfect tenon cheeks every time.

 

Does anyone even know what this is called?  I’d look into buying one, but I can’t find anything about it anywhere.

[Chestnut]

Idk what it is but if people thought table saws were unsafe.... Hate to say it but it's probably expensive. I'd go for a domino if it were me.

https://kitanihonkikai.jimdo.com/秘宝館/秘宝館/有-永和工業所/

Hope you can read Japanese.

[mat60]

If you are clamping the stock before making the cut what makes it more unsafe than a table saw..... EDIT///                I  looked again and maybe there is no clamp..

[Tpt life]

1 hour ago, mat60 said:

If you are clamping the stock before making the cut what makes it more unsafe than a table saw..... EDIT///                I  looked again and maybe there is no clamp..

Absolutely nothing. There is no contact with the upforce, the equivalent of the danger on a table saw. Maybe short stock introduces some tip out concern?

[bleedinblue]

I think it's the sheer amount of exposed blade that gives people the heebie jeebies.

[Coop]

Looks like a quick trip to the emergency room type tool. 

[wtnhighlander]

It is known as....

 

the AMPUTATOR

I've noticed that most other countries expect product users to actually have some idea about what they are doing.

[Tom King]

I'll keep my old Delta, heavy cast iron tenoning jig for the table saw.  It produces tenon cheeks so smooth with a Forrest blade that they're almost too smooth for glue.

[Denette]

19 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Idk what it is but if people thought table saws were unsafe.... Hate to say it but it's probably expensive. I'd go for a domino if it were me.

https://kitanihonkikai.jimdo.com/秘宝館/秘宝館/有-永和工業所/

Hope you can read Japanese.

How on earth did you find that?  Awesome sleuthing.

 

Looks like it's not a common enough tool to even hope to find one in the US.  The little diagram in the documents there shows them in a lot of countries worldwide, but not here.  

[Chestnut]

1 hour ago, Denette said:

How on earth did you find that?  Awesome sleuthing.

 

Looks like it's not a common enough tool to even hope to find one in the US.  The little diagram in the documents there shows them in a lot of countries worldwide, but not here.  

I don't know how i found it, i blame it on having a knack for finding things.

I'm sure if you can find it, the cost is goign to be prohibitive. As pointed out earlier a tenoning jig for a table saw will work wonderfully. I personally like the looks and features of the new powermatic one but it's expensive. I still think the domino is the best method because it replaces 2 tools with 1 but that's my opinion. I also prefer a dado stack and rabbeting plane for tenons as it provides a lot of control and to me feels the most safe.

Cutting a tenon as pictured is very possible on a band saw as well. With a good blade like the resaw king you can get super clean tenon cheeks that wouldn't need to be cleaned up. Or you could cut them with a traditional blade and clean up with a rabbeting plane. All of the methods the one from the original post, band saw, tenoning jig would require the shoulder to be cut on a table saw or chiseled out for accuracy.

[VizslaDad]

One could (do not misconstrue this as me saying should) just tip a contractor saw on its side and jig up a little table on linear bearings with stops to emulate that thing. Of course, this would be insane to do considering the multitude of more efficient and far less terror-inducing ways of cutting a tenon.

[Chestnut]

5 minutes ago, VizslaDad said:

One could (do not misconstrue this as me saying should) just tip a contractor saw on its side and jig up a little table on linear bearings with stops to emulate that thing. Of course, this would be insane to do considering the multitude of more efficient and far less terror-inducing ways of cutting a tenon.

I like your style.....

[Pwk5017]

While this tool is interesting, i think he needs to score a shoulder prior to using that machine to cut the cheeks. Why do 2-3 steps when you can do one? If you are interested in efficient tenoning, then you should pick up a big shaper with sliding table and clamps, or wait around for an auction with a tenoning machine. The powermatic 2A models are usually kinda cheap at auction. Something like that machine will take up a bit of real estate and be a one or two trick pony. On the other hand, a 5-9hp shaper can do many things for you. A lighter machine can do half the tenon at once, and cost you a lot less. Also, give you the opportunity to have a single phase machine. Whitehill will counterbore their rebate head to allow the spindle nut to sit below the top of the cutterhead. This means even lightish machines like my felder 700 can cut pretty large tenons using the shaper. Just takes me two passes versus doing it in one go with stacked 8" diameter tenon discs. If you routinely make tenons less than 3" in length, you can probably get away with stacked tooling on a machine like mine.

[Jungle]

常盤工業製丸のこ盤

This is the name of the machine

kyowa KMS16-2

or

 

Tokiwa SB-400

And this boys and girls is the id of the machine that took me forever finding, now try to go buy one.

 

[K-Dizzle]

I think a lot of you guys are missing the point. This tool, the Kiowa KMS16-2 is far superior to a tenoning jig on a table saw. If you watch Ishitani, after he cuts his shoulder on the sliding table saw, he uses this machine to cut the cheeks, getting close with his first attempt. He then tries his tenon in the mortice and if it’s too snug, he can go back to the Kiowa, give the fence adjustment a quarter turn and creep up on the fit. All the while he’s got the workpiece in his hands.

There’s no having to clamp into a tenon jig and use the table saw fence micro adjustment (which some people don’t even have). You’re over the top of the workpiece and you can see exactly what’s going on. You also don’t need to worry about a depth stop (blade height using a table saw). The kerf from the shoulder cut gives you enough play to just eye in the depth/distance of the cheek cut, much easier when standing over the workpiece.

If you do the same on the bandsaw, getting your first cut close, and then try taking a 1/10mm shaving from the cheek in order to creep up on the correct size, it’s not going to work as the blade will drift. But a circular blade will work with incredible accuracy.

And as far as dominoes go, Ishitani is making furniture for high paying clients, there’s lots of through tenons and it’s all about the craft. So no dominoes.

Also, the beauty in the way Ishitani works if you watch his videos is that he uses the same techniques for every action he performs. Tenons are always cut this way, dovetails are always cut in the same way etc. This enables him to achieve what I presume is a state of flow. He is undoubtably capable of doing things in a lot of different ways (as any good wood worker is!), but he keeps it efficient with the same approach each time.

Anyway, just my interpretation having thought about this a lot, is that this approach with the Kiowa can’t be beaten. Not if you make this type of furniture. I hope OP managed to track one down.

It's a real shame these machines aren't available in the west.