Bmac

What type of hinge would you use

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Making a liquor cabinet, two frame and panel doors approx 21" H x 15" W, the doors are inset and the frame extends out past the door hinge area. I could glue a vertical piece to the cabinet to help with clearance, but I really don't want to do that. Was looking at pivot hinges, but never used them and I'm not sure they are best for this. Here was what I was looking at;

https://www.hardwaresource.com/brusso-brass-offset-pivot-hinge.html

Am I on the right track or not?

Here are the pictires of the cabinet with a scrap piece in place where the door will be;

1501838254_hinge1.jpg.8655fbc7b1476ea30eb86e4c2e2f58bf.jpg

1302643115_hinge2.jpg.22a4394f9d563d71e92ed4de3da7329c.jpg

650745282_hinge3.jpg.e299a483da13d82118fad82b488563bc.jpg

1909008449_hinge4.jpg.3baae05d22bc941f7ad95708485ba0cc.jpg

Thanks for any help in advance!

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I don't mind showing some hinge, and the double offset knife hinge would allow me to open somewhat past 90 degrees, correct? Is there anything I'm missing by selecting this hinge?

2 hours ago, Denette said:

I highly recommend these.  The layout is tough, and you have to be precise - and you are advised to do it prior to assembling your workpiece - but they're smooth and strong.  

http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=68961&cat=3,41241,41267

I haven't assembled the casework yet, so I'm good there. 

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35 minutes ago, Bmac said:

I don't mind showing some hinge, and the double offset knife hinge would allow me to open somewhat past 90 degrees, correct? Is there anything I'm missing by selecting this hinge?

I'm not sure, but looks like those knife hinges will require more clearance between the doors, a more visible gap. But again, I maybe wrong.

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The knife hinges should be mortised, at least into the door, and likely into the case as well.  That would make the clearance gap no more than the width between the blades of the hinge.  As mentioned previously, getting the top and bottom hinge to align, both front to back and laterally takes some skill but will work and look excellent if achieved.  Take your time and perhaps a dummy installation for practice.

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If you have not already made the doors then you might consider making them taller than planned such that they cover the upper rail and are thus moved forward into what will likely be the same plane as the drawer front.  Your choice of hinges will then be simplified, and I think that the cabinet design might well be improved.............

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Having never used knife hinges, will they extend past 90*, given the location of the leg(s)? I don’t see how? 

Perhaps, add a stile where your current “scrap piece” is and now you’re not  limited to any certain hinge. 

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5 hours ago, gee-dub said:

 I do a bit of a how to on knife hinges in this thread: 

 

Thanks, I remember this journal and I had forgot how much you covered the hinge work. This will be very helpful!

 

6 hours ago, K Cooper said:

Having never used knife hinges, will they extend past 90*, given the location of the leg(s)? I don’t see how? 

Perhaps, add a stile where your current “scrap piece” is and now you’re not  limited to any certain hinge. 

Yes Coop, I was thinking of that option (to add a stile on to the frame), but I really like the look without a stile there. If you look at the location of the pivot in the hinge Gee-dub uses, it's located in front of the door. So if I'm envisioning it correctly, when you open the door the door, the door swings around that pivot point and may actually be opened a little more than 90 degrees. 

Best way for me to see how far that is, based on how much the door opening is inset, is to buy the hinges and see. Then make the determination if I need to add a stile. 

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Whatever hinge you use I highly recommend that you make a mock-up to be sure it will work. The knife hinges move the pivot point past the face of the door, but you have to get them in the correct place to ensure that it opens the way you want it to. They should swing until the door hits the cabinet.

Another alternative is a "Parliament Hinge" https://www.hardwaresource.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=parliament+hinge  that also moves the pivot point forward. Personally I would add a 3/8"-1/2" strip on the outside of the door and use butt hinges, that's a common solution in Arts & Crafts furniture where the doors are set back from the other elements on the face of the cabinet..

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2 hours ago, Bob Lang said:

Whatever hinge you use I highly recommend that you make a mock-up to be sure it will work. The knife hinges move the pivot point past the face of the door, but you have to get them in the correct place to ensure that it opens the way you want it to. They should swing until the door hits the cabinet.

Another alternative is a "Parliament Hinge" https://www.hardwaresource.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=parliament+hinge  that also moves the pivot point forward. Personally I would add a 3/8"-1/2" strip on the outside of the door and use butt hinges, that's a common solution in Arts & Crafts furniture where the doors are set back from the other elements on the face of the cabinet..

Good advice, thank you. As I'm thinking about the solution, and envisioning the result, I'm thinking adding the strip is going to be necessary. The top of the cabinet extends quite a way out from the frame.

I'm picking stock for the stiles this weekend and I am considering cutting wider stock for the outside stiles, the cutting them to correct width and using the offcut to add to the sides of the door opening. I think this will give it better look with the matching grain and color. My main concern with adding the strips was that it would look like I added strips, but if they blend with the stiles i think I avoid that result.

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