Joint/Planer First Or . . .

[Leaseman]

Even though I'm a novice woodworker I feel I should know this already. But is it better to run your boards through the jointer and planer first then cut to final dimension or do you cut to final dimension first then square off with the jointer and planer?

[Coop]

I always rough cut to final dimensions, then thru the jointer and on to the planer. Many times you will waste a lot of the board, even getting below the required thickness, depending on the size and shape of the board, if you go thru the jointer first. The more you minimize the size of the board first,  the less waste you have. 

[..Kev]

My preference is to start at the jointer with a face.  I then use that face against the fence on the jointer to get one square edge.  From there, I'll go to the planer and the table saw but, I like to leave them a little oversize and let them sit for a bit.  Then, I'll final mill in the same sequence just before I use the parts.

[Steve B Anderson]

32 minutes ago, Leaseman said:

Even though I'm a novice woodworker I feel I should know this already. But is it better to run your boards through the jointer and planer first then cut to final dimension or do you cut to final dimension first then square off with the jointer and planer?

Everyone has their own process for milling rough stock and a lot depends on the size of your jointer. I have a 6” jointet and the table length is only good for about 4’ board length. First I will roughly mark out the peices I want out of each board depending on grain presentation. I will then cut the boards into manageable lengths (4 feet or less if possible) I add 4” to each board length to compensate for planer snipe.

I will then rip saw the width an 1/8” wide on the bandsaw. This can also be done on your tablesaw if a bandsaw is unavailable. Just be careful when ripping material 1-3/4” or thicker as it will tend to relieve stress and close up causing kick back. I’ve had to insert shims into the out feed kerf to prevent binding on thick stock.

Now I go to the jointer and cleanup one face. Then thru the planer leaving a little sanding stock. I then cut the pieces to length with a cross cut sled on the tablesaw. 

I was a beginner just a year or so ago and was asking the same questions you are asking now. I had like 30 replies from every experienced woodworker on this forum and with their advise and guidance I am now able to take raw material to a finished product. 

[pkinneb]

10 hours ago, ..Kev said:

My preference is to start at the jointer with a face.  I then use that face against the fence on the jointer to get one square edge.  From there, I'll go to the planer and the table saw but, I like to leave them a little oversize and let them sit for a bit.  Then, I'll final mill in the same sequence just before I use the parts.

X2 this is the same process I use. I sticker them when I let them sit as well.

[Isaac]

47 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

X2 this is the same process I use. I sticker them when I let them sit as well.

I've drifted this direction as well. I also have a small jointer.

Trying to square up a huge (long) board theoretically will maximize your material, but long boards can be heavy and difficult to join, and if the board is bowed or curved you just loose too much material thickness, which tends to be a more critical dimension than length (if you plan accordingly).

I rough cut to length (typically about 6 inches long, to leave plenty of room for snipe and minor end splitting). Join two parallel edges, plane, and then table saw rip for a four square board that is glue ready. 

bigger picture, one of the most important things is to try and do all your stock on the planer at one time, because you generally want all of your 3/4" material to be exactly the same amount of deviation from true 3/4". If it is all 2% thick or thin, it won't matter, but it will matter if you plane some now, and plane some later, and wind up with a mixture of boards that are slightly thinner or thicker. 

[Leaseman]

12 hours ago, Steve B Anderson said:

Everyone has their own process for milling rough stock and a lot depends on the size of your jointer. I have a 6” jointet and the table length is only good for about 4’ board length. First I will roughly mark out the peices I want out of each board depending on grain presentation. I will then cut the boards into manageable lengths (4 feet or less if possible) I add 4” to each board length to compensate for planer snipe.

I will then rip saw the width an 1/8” wide on the bandsaw. This can also be done on your tablesaw if a bandsaw is unavailable. Just be careful when ripping material 1-3/4” or thicker as it will tend to relieve stress and close up causing kick back. I’ve had to insert shims into the out feed kerf to prevent binding on thick stock.

Now I go to the jointer and cleanup one face. Then thru the planer leaving a little sanding stock. I then cut the pieces to length with a cross cut sled on the tablesaw. 

I was a beginner just a year or so ago and was asking the same questions you are asking now. I had like 30 replies from every experienced woodworker on this forum and with their advise and guidance I am now able to take raw material to a finished product. 

How do I find your earlier post regarding this topic?

[curlyoak]

The longer the requirement the more extra I give in width. First I cut to length and a little extra. Then I rip a little wider because sometimes after a rip the wood will distort. So then I plane one face on the jointer. Then thickness planer. Then true the edge on the jointer. Then final rip. Rejoint the rip if needed then cut to final length. Lots of variations depending on circumstances...

[Byrdie]

Typically wood should be surfaced before it is dimensioned so that the dimensions are true from flattened surfaces.  If the pieces are to large or unwieldy to handle then I would *rough* dimension them before surfacing them.  Basically you want flat and true surfaces to work from.

[Martin-IT]

If you have a piece 6" x 8':

- that will be cut at 2.5" x 4', cut it first to a rough dimension. As ripping it in half on the length, may remove some of the twist/cup, then ripping it in half.

If you perfectly join/plane the 6" x 8' piece first, you would most likely have more lost due to making flat on the total width and total length 1st.

-If you want a 2.5" x 8', rip it  1st using a bandsaw  (not a tablesaw, it may not be flat, increasing the chance of problem while ripping it).-

Same logic if you want a 6" x 4', you will cut it in half 1st (not using the tablesaw, as it is not flat yet).

To roughing cut the pieces before they are flat, do not use the tablesaw.

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

I usually joint a reference edge and 1 face first.

Keep in mind that you may want to leave a few inches on the piece to account for snipe.

So I usually will not cut to final length until all planing is done.