Entry hall table for a niece


derekcohen

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I've worked quite a bit with Hard Maple. It has a similar density, but is a joy to work. Jarrah is open grain, can be very interlocked, and also quite brittle. All the other US hardwoods I have used - such a Black Walnut and Cherry - are tame by comparison. You need to be thinking along the lines of Wenge.

Regards from Perth

Derek

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1 minute ago, pkinneb said:

I'd say you nailed it!! Awesome job Derek thanks for taking us along!!

On another note did you make your entry door? That is very nice and a project I would like to take on at some point.

Did I make the entry door? No way. That's a job for the professionals. 

Regards from Perth

Derek

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On 3/1/2020 at 9:56 AM, derekcohen said:

This is the part where we begin building one-piece lipped drawers (as contrasted with applied fronts). 

In preparing for this part of the build, my research uncovered exactly one article on dovetailing lipped drawer fronts. This is by Christian Becksvoort in Fine Woodworking magazine (#263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue). Interesting that. 

Marc's jewelry box build looks to use the same joint, but with some different techniques. Start at 3:40 for the dovetails in case it doesn't automatically go there. 

 

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The dovetails for the drawer fronts of Marc’s cabinet are indeed similar, jn that they are lipped. His drawer design and construction is, however, quite different, and reflect his power tool orientation.

Nicely done.

Regards from Perth

Derek

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  • 1 month later...

I have no fishtail chisels, but I'm no, expert on dovetails either. I find a sharp, single bevel marking knife does a good job of getting into those half-blind tail sockets pretty well. Maybe not in Jarrah or Wenge, but in maple, oak, poplar etc it works well for me. Gotta keep it sharp though, as with any cutting tool.

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