Nakashima Conoid Table.


Coyote Jim

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1 hour ago, Coyote Jim said:

So step one would be: go buy a router.

I have possibly been over thinking it (which is my MO). It's really just a mortise with an open side. I could just chop down the side like a standard mortise but I would have the added benefit of being able to split out the waste as I progress down.

Think that would work?

Didn't know that you did not own a router, that sorta makes you a rare one. However as Ross said, a mortise chisel or for that matter any chisel will do what you ask, just keep your sharpening stones nearby to keep a "very" sharp edge. And treat it like any mortise you would use for constructing a piece..  I'd suggest a piece on the far side clamped tight, to avoid blowout, should you slip during the work.

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1 hour ago, Coyote Jim said:

Story of my life:

aqZP2rY_700b.jpg.5b6de8edfee97f733a202d8aafbe3d91.jpg

I resonate with that picture more than I would like to admit to myself.

I use woodworking for the relaxation of it. While I'm not scared to use power tools, I find them far from relaxing. I'm actually looking forward to pounding out all that waste with a chisel for a couple hours tomorrow morning. I'm by no means disparaging power tools, they just happen to stress me out. I have enough stress in my life without them.

I know how you feel, most of my life I've been a one legged man at an ass kicking contest.   There was no suggestion that you didn't like power tools, I was merely offering a short cut. Noisy but shorter.  I to like hand work more than machine work.

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I don't think so the question i my mind is how difficult is it to make the mortise deeper?

If its easy and fast the cost is low and I'd do it to give more strength.

I do think there is enough strength there as is, so if expanding the mortise is difficult and there is risk of causing a poor fitting joint then i would abstain.

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15 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

I don't think so the question i my mind is how difficult is it to make the mortise deeper?

If its easy and fast the cost is low and I'd do it to give more strength.

I do think there is enough strength there as is, so if expanding the mortise is difficult and there is risk of causing a poor fitting joint then i would abstain.

Thanks for the quick response Drew. So to deepen the mortise by about 1/4" or so would take 30 minutes to an hour on each one (there are 2).

I want the table to last forever, which would make the "cost" negligible. What do you think? Another 1/4" or 1/2"?

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  • 2 weeks later...
13 hours ago, Coop said:

You just have to do away with the blue end of that board ASAP! :D

Your probably right. I just assumed it would not be a big deal because the humidity stays pretty consistently at around 15% here.

We DID get all the way up to 30% for like a day or two a few weeks ago. It was brutal!

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So the vertical legs are supposed to be 3" thick? I am goign to embark on making my own conoid derived table. Can you think of a way to laminate material to get 3" thick that wouldn't look awful?

I want to make mine out of walnut and 3" thick walnut isn't readily available. For the big center beam i figured i can do a book match. The other material i can just scale down to get them from stock i currently have. The vertical legs though are visible both sides so I'm not sure a book match would work. Even if it would work I'd need a walnut board 11" wide, which is also hard to find.

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6 hours ago, Chestnut said:

So the vertical legs are supposed to be 3" thick? I am goign to embark on making my own conoid derived table. Can you think of a way to laminate material to get 3" thick that wouldn't look awful?

 

I did mine with 12/4 stock. After milling they are around 11/4. I did that because I just don't know any better. 3" very well could be incredibly overkill I just have no idea. Now that I am this far down the trail I feel as if I have overbuilt it.

To my eye the vertical legs seem a bit chunky. I'm either going to have to figure out a way to contour them to make them seem more appealing or I will just have to live with them looking thicker than I want. Either way I will still end up with a table.

But I am pretty confident that if the legs were only 2.5" they would still be plenty sturdy.

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Totally missed this thread until just now. Wow, what a great build. Kudos to your hand tool skills! 

When I first saw the plans for this I assumed they were in inches. What a relief to see that they were in cm. Big difference!

Put a slab door on top of it and start using it until you can get back to it!

 

 

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2 hours ago, Coyote Jim said:

But I am pretty confident that if the legs were only 2.5" they would still be plenty sturdy.

In thinking about it If i thinned out everything a bit proportionally i could probably get away with 2" thick legs. The other thought I had after I posed was to make the legs with a strip of cherry running down the middle and 2 skins of walnut on either side. I could make it thin to appear like an inlay or something.

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12 hours ago, Chestnut said:

In thinking about it If i thinned out everything a bit proportionally i could probably get away with 2" thick legs. The other thought I had after I posed was to make the legs with a strip of cherry running down the middle and 2 skins of walnut on either side. I could make it thin to appear like an inlay or something.

That's an awesome idea. It would add such a nice detail. And of course cherry and walnut compliment each other so well. 

Seriously, that's a home run idea.

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