Building an MDF cabinet to support my drill press


Meatwad

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I've got this cabinet frame started and I want to put my harbor freight drill press on it. It's 40 pounds. Do I need any additional support inside the cabinet other than just MDF? Wooden frame or anything? Or will the MDF be enough to hold it up?

This is not my final design for how I will mount the drill press on top. I'm just showing it for reference.

IMG-5863.jpg

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Not a big MDF fan so don't get me wrong.  However, this MDF drawer unit has served many purposes during its long life.  It finally ended up as a base for my small bandsaw. There are specific methods for using screws and glues for MDF that differ from our general use of same. This one is just glued rabbets.

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It does have a 3/4" rabbeted back to keep things rigid.

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The casters are bolted through instead of lag screwed in.  It has been a solid performer for many years without issue.  For your design / dimensions and weight I think you will be OK if your environment is pretty mild.  If you get wide humidity and weather swings I might reinforce things with a brace / stretcher under the front top lip or just double the top.  When in doubt, build it stout.

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@gee-dub, yes, all the MDF is screwed together and yes I do have an MDF back panel to add but it doesn't have a rebate. I like the stretcher idea but I guess I'm not understanding how doubling the top would resist racking force. Can you explain?

I wouldn't say we experience wide humidity swings but I'm in Arkansas so it just stays mostly swampy.

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On 9/7/2021 at 8:43 AM, Meatwad said:

@gee-dub, yes, all the MDF is screwed together and yes I do have an MDF back panel to add but it doesn't have a rebate. I like the stretcher idea but I guess I'm not understanding how doubling the top would resist racking force. Can you explain?

I wouldn't say we experience wide humidity swings but I'm in Arkansas so it just stays mostly swampy.

The only reason I can think of doubling the top the down forces of using the drill press, sometimes you will be bearing down on the handle when drilling through metal or using a dull bit, MDF would be less strong than say plywood.

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You might want to look up Confirmat screws. They are made specially for joining man-made materials and work very well. Most of the cabinets in my shop are made from melamine covered particle board held together by Confimat screws and have held up very well. Several of them are used for tool stands. You can get them at McFeeley's. You will need a special two step drill bit for them. 

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On 9/8/2021 at 5:46 AM, wtnhighlander said:

Ha! Don't tell me you've never made an MDF jig. There are times when the flatness and consistent thickness of MDF just can't be beat.

:lol:

You are right! And I even bought a 3/4” sheet to act as an assembly table for my bathroom door. But when I finished with it, I cut it up and took it to the office and put it in the dumpster for lack of space to keep it. 

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On 9/8/2021 at 10:00 AM, Coop said:

You are right! And I even bought a 3/4” sheet to act as an assembly table for my bathroom door. But when I finished with it, I cut it up and took it to the office and put it in the dumpster for lack of space to keep it. 

 

I would say that was a costly mistake, but considering I took excessive walnut plywood and use it for jigs isn't any different...

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On 9/8/2021 at 10:00 AM, Coop said:

You are right! And I even bought a 3/4” sheet to act as an assembly table for my bathroom door. But when I finished with it, I cut it up and took it to the office and put it in the dumpster for lack of space to keep it. 

So why do not like MDF?

Hope its not because the internet said so...

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If you have a back I don't see anything wrong with MDF. It's going to be FAR stronger than the trash they sell at Ikea that is an inferior fiberboard or hardboard. That stuff will usually hold up to minor abuse.

I've made quite a few items from MDF core play and they have held up so far (bathroom cabinets, shelves, shop fixtures). I don't get the problem.

I've also found that MDF takes glue quite nicely. In my own tests the glue joint is stronger than MDF material around it.

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I have found there are several grades of particle board, at least the Melamine Oates stuff. The big box store stuff tends towards junk. The particles are large. The stuff I get at my lumber sealer has a core that has particle size that approaches MDF and is much stronger. Plus it holds fasteners better. 

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On 9/7/2021 at 8:43 AM, Meatwad said:

I like the stretcher idea but I guess I'm not understanding how doubling the top would resist racking force. Can you explain?

Sorry, I was referring to the stretcher for racking and the top-doubling for avoiding sag.  With the back on I don't feel your dimensions will be very rack prone unless abused so doubling the top may be all you need.  Conversely, the stretcher could do both if it were "wide" enough (wide = top to bottom; 2" or more) the rub there is that it crowds your cubby opening.  It is very possible that with the weight of your machine, sagging is not a concern.

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