Veneering With Contact Cement

[Coop]

I plan on making a king size bed instead of buying. The rails will be approx 8” x 1” x 80” and I would like to veneer them with walnut to match the head and foot boards to reduce the cost. Has anyone ever used contact cement to attach shop made 1/8” or so veneer, to a wood substrate? If not, can you see a problem in doing so? 

[wtnhighlander]

Ken, this comment is from observation, not personal experience, so take it for what that is worth.

Contact cement is a very strong and reliable adhesive. Many people use it successfully with commercial veneer, so I expect it will work well with thick veneers. The biggest downside I see is that it is a 'once and done' process, with no easy way to recover if you stick the parts out of position. Just take care during the lay-up, and I think it will be fine. Of course, pay attention to ventilation, if using the higher VOC product. 

[drzaius]

My experience indicates that contact cement is more of a crap shoot than ever. After bad experiences with water borne cement, I found some VOC borne, but it was worse than the water borne stuff. It smelled strongly of acetone and flashed so quickly that there was barely time to bet the parts joined before it was too dry. And there were always areas that were not quite dry enough that didn't stick properly at all.

[Ronn W]

https://oakwoodveneer.com/veneer-application-and-installation-hints/hints-for-applying-veneer-with-contact-cement.html

This may help or not.   I have not tried contact cement with veneer.

[Tom King]

I've had good luck with contact cement for decades, not the water borne stuff, but can't see any good reason to use it for veneer.  I would be worried that some edges might curl.  The stuff I stick down with it doesn't move like wood does.

[BillyJack]

On 7/1/2023 at 10:57 AM, drzaius said:

My experience indicates that contact cement is more of a crap shoot than ever. After bad experiences with water borne cement, I found some VOC borne, but it was worse than the water borne stuff. It smelled strongly of acetone and flashed so quickly that there was barely time to bet the parts joined before it was too dry. And there were always areas that were not quite dry enough that didn't stick properly at all.

#1… don’t use water born #2… let it breathe to release the fumes..#3.. buy a quality contact adhesive..

 

I can let contact adhesive sit for hours and stick it..

[G Ragatz]

I know it's not the question you asked, but I wonder if it's worth the time and effort to veneer those rails vs. the cost of 12 bf or so of walnut?

[Coop]

On 7/1/2023 at 4:15 PM, G Ragatz said:

I know it's not the question you asked, but I wonder if it's worth the time and effort to veneer those rails vs. the cost of 12 bf or so of walnut?

Good point. My current cost for 5/4 walnut is $13.24 bf  and I would still be out $ for the substrate board.
 I guess the only advantage of using contact cement in lieu of wood glue, if it is ok for this application, is I would have to buy 2 dozen more cheap clamps and less down time, waiting for it to dry. 

[Coop]

On 7/1/2023 at 11:49 AM, Ronn W said:

https://oakwoodveneer.com/veneer-application-and-installation-hints/hints-for-applying-veneer-with-contact-cement.html

This may help or not.   I have not tried contact cement with veneer.

Thanks Ronn, it did help. Talked me completely out of the notion. 

[curlyoak]

On 7/1/2023 at 11:38 AM, wtnhighlander said:

biggest downside I see is that it is a 'once and done' process, with no easy way to recover

Lacquer thinner will break it loose. And then can be re applied. That being said I like tite bond III with a vacuum bag. More reliable and longer lasting.

[drzaius]

19 hours ago, BillyJack said:

#1… don’t use water born #2… let it breathe to release the fumes..#3.. buy a quality contact adhesive..

 

I can let contact adhesive sit for hours and stick it..

That's the key, finding a quality contact adhesive. The only VOC borne available at retail stores here is terrible stuff. Leaving it to dry for hours is like using no adhesive at all.

[BillyJack]

I used the HD contact adhesive one time on a weekend. What I think is  Weldwood.  You better read and understand  those instructions, because if you wait too long it won’t stick. It will stick, but release after awhile. We used Weldwood in the early 80’s using a special contact adhesive roller and after it flashed $ you could apply. Today no…

[Ronn W]

On 7/1/2023 at 9:29 PM, Coop said:

Thanks Ronn, it did help. Talked me completely out of the notion. 

Heres' another idea.  I use this method on a curve table apron maybe 10 years ago with 1/8" oak veneer and it is still good.

Veneer should be smooth (no saw marks from band saw) - Apply thin layer of PVA glue ( I used original Titebond )to the board and to the veneer).  Yes the veneer will try to curl a little.  Be sure the glue reaches the edges.

-  Let Dry until not shiny. - Maybe 5 to 20 minutes

- Repeat

_Repeat again.

Working from one end use your wife's least favorite clothes iron and iron it on. Take it slow.  Use a thin cloth under the iron if you are afraid of burning the wood. You are reactiviating the glue.  Have a piece of dense wood or metal in you other hand and follow very close behind the iron to cool the glue (a heat sink)so it sets.  Press both iron and heat sink down firmly. Don't be afraid to get the glue really warm for a good bond.

-  Trim veneeer as required.

- Try a practice piece first.

Good luck

[Wimayo]

Just for information; I'm not claiming it's the best. I have had good results with Titebond Coldpress glue. It is formulated for veneer work. I like to apply it to both surfaces with a short nap roller. That puts it down quickly, smoothly, and evenly. Working time seems to be adequate.

I don't think you really need lots of clamps. You are going to be working with a long straight board. If you have a level smooth surface to lay it on, just weight it down with bricks or concrete blocks or bags of sand.