Pwk5017 Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I need to drill a plumbing hole in a counter for a faucet connection. The diameter is 1 3/8" and I'm drilling through 1.5-1.75" thick cherry. My question is do I go with spade, forstner, twist(do they make huge twist bits?). I want to use my drill press for the hole if that makes any difference. My knee jerk was to grab a forstner bit, but perhaps there is a better option. I don't need a clean bottom, but the forstner definitely has more flexibility and usability for future applications over the spade bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 From my experience, a spade bit is a lot quicker than a forstner, but not near as clean coming out the bottom, and a heck of a lot cheaper. You may want to consider a hole saw for your dp. We use Lenox but there are others out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I would either use a forstner or a hole saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 If you use a hole saw as soon as the pilot bit breaks through you can drill from the bottom and prevent any breakout . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I agree with Steve.. The hole saw would be my first choice flipping it over once the pilot goes thru. If that's not an option for you then I would go with the forstner bit and flip it once the center point pops thru or back it up with some scrap to reduce tear out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I wouldn't trust myself to be able to stop when just the tip of the forstner bit punched the backside. I'd drill a pilot hole with the smallest bit I had, then use that as reference to drill with the forstner from both sides. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 If I were drilling it on the drill press and it required a clean hole, I'd use a forstner. But I'm not sure how you plan to get a huge countertop up on your drill press table, and you don't need a clean hole since it will not be seen, so I agree with everyone else...hole saw. I generally think hole saws are construction tools and fairly useless in a wood shop, but this case is an exception. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 If you use a hole saw (that's how I'd do it), be sure to back it out lots to clear the spoil. Or you can drill a couple of 1/4" clearance holes around the circumference so the spoil can drop through. You'll be amazed at how much faster it cuts that way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwk5017 Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 2 hours ago, Eric. said: If I were drilling it on the drill press and it required a clean hole, I'd use a forstner. But I'm not sure how you plan to get a huge countertop up on your drill press table, and you don't need a clean hole since it will not be seen, so I agree with everyone else...hole saw. I generally think hole saws are construction tools and fairly useless in a wood shop, but this case is an exception. Drilling the hole prior to glue up. Probably still need some support for a 6-7' long 8/4 board on a drill press table, but i want the hole to be perfectly placed and perpendicular. Who knows, I probably put too much effort into simple construction tasks like this. I guarantee I am guilty of this when doing sink cut outs as well. Despite popular opinion, I think I am going to go with the forstner bit for the sole fact that i will use it again in the future when doing bit mortises. The hole saw is going to be a one and done item for me. Unless I need to drill additional faucet holes of exactly this size--doubtful--this thing is going to sit on the shelf forever. Good suggestion to drill half and then flip it for the final half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I meant to add in my response - although you may already know this - a big forstner bit will be squirrelly and dangerous in a handheld drill, so only use the forstner if you can manage the job on the drill press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Just now, Eric. said: I meant to add in my response - although you may already know this - a big forstner bit will be squirrelly and dangerous in a handheld drill, so only use the forstner if you can manage the job on the drill press. + they require lots of down force to cut properly, that is difficult to provide with a hand drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 If you can't drill the hole on your drill press and you're going to use a large forstner bit, you can use a piece of 3/4" inch MDF clamped to the piece in order to start the hole properly and without risk of skating. Just use your drill press on the MDF to make a hole with the forstner bit and then use it as guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Also extremely difficult to drill perfectly straight with a forstner in a hand drill. Use the lowest speed possible on your drill press. High speed builds heat and cooks the bit which dulls it quickly. Clear the chips frequently. I use a big shop vac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwk5017 Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 All reasons why I want to use the drill press and not a cordless. I was mostly concerned with a hole drilled at a 15° angle and the bit dancing around over a glued panel that is too wide to send through the powermatic. My 15" 1963 rockwell DP only has one speed. The reeves drive on it doesnt work, which is one of the reasons i bought it for so little. Thankfully, it appears to be stuck in a tweener speed, but i will baby the process by backing out frequently and using dust extraction. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 I've had too many occasions where a hole saws jumped on me when they contact wood, even in a drill press. For that reason alone it would be the last bit I'd use for a counter top. I'd build a quick mdf or plywood right angle guide for a hand drill to ride against and use a forstner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Another option is to use a circle template and router. I have this one from Rockler and it's come in handy more times than I can remember...I also have another template with oblong shapes, they came in a set but that was years ago... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 I have used a hole saw in the past many times to drill holes up to 4" diameter. As Steve said as soon as the pilot bit breaks through drill from the underside as long as there is enough room for the drill (if drilling in situ). Set it on slow speed and watch for it overheating. A hole saw set is very cheap and it is easy to control. Another option, mainly used on metalwork, is a trepanning tool. They are more difficult to control though and can blue quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Another option is to use a circle template and router. I have this one from Rockler and it's come in handy more times than I can remember...I also have another template with oblong shapes, they came in a set but that was years ago... Circle & elliptical templates can be found in drafting section of most office or art supply stores. Too thin to route with, but probably a good bit cheaper, use them to mark & cut the routing template from mdf or ply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwk5017 Posted June 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 Freud forstner bit did the ticket nicely. I think it was $12-$13 from amazon, and extremely sharp. I noticed a difference between the freud and my CMT set. I clamped everything in place, and took a solid 60-90 seconds to drill the hole. Incredibly clean hole with no burning of the wood or my bit. I slowly punched all the way through and experienced no blow out. Really happy I used the drill press prior to glue up. Surprise bonus for buying the forstner bit that we missed? Apparently 1 3/8" is the size you want for drilling hinge recesses for euro hardware. Should come in handy when I never make a set of cabinets. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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