chrisphr Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 Finished the platform part of the G&G Blanket chest today where you cut miters. Started with my miter saw, that was a no go, not quite 45degrees. Went to the incra miter gauge next, that seemed to be 45, but the incra was only long enough to set a stop block for the small sides. Ended up just cutting to a pencil line on the long boards. Got acceptable results. Curious if there are methods are out there that are fast, repeatable and accurate (assume a Kapex is far down on a long list). Love to hear how you guys tackle miters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 (edited) Cut to length on SCMS -- leaves 'about' 45d and I leave them a tad long...Then a dedicated 44.8d jig on stationary disk sander to get them final length... Sort of a 'spring miter' I can never seem to clamp them to my satisfaction (or without a lot of frustration), so I use a rub joint with HHG. Edited September 14, 2015 by hhh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 I use the TS or Kapex, but if I were in your shoes having your troubles, I would have used a shooting board to dial in dead nuts after initial "rough" cuts on one of the saws. Nothing can get such perfect results as a shooting board, with the possible exceptions of Trip's jig or a miter trimmer. A shooting board is the old school solution to an age old problem. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post h3nry Posted September 14, 2015 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 I bought a fancy rosewood and brass miter-square to help me layout accurate miters. Produces dead-accurate, repeatable 47° corners every time - biggest waste of money on my tool-shelf.+1 for the Shooting board. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 often overlooked is stock preparation. if your stock is not flat and square you can run into problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted September 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Thanks for the tips! Coincidentally there is a Lie Nelson Low Angle Jack plane on its way to me (a birthday gift from my wife that she will soon know about) as my first bench plane. I'll dig around for a 45degree shooting board plan to add that to the plane's capabilities. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 I use a dedicated miter sled for the TS. I do have a kapex, but the sled gives flawless results as it compensates automatically (as long as you keep track of your cuts). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcarswell Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Miter saw or incra miter gauge. Neither is perfect really at the moment . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I use the table saw and mitre gauge but never rely upon the graduations on it. I always use a drafting square to set the 45 degree angle. A decent drafting square (read expensive) is normally right on and I have a few from when I used to use them in my engineering days.It also helps having a sliding table on the TS, though not essential, as you can lock the mitre gauge in the slot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I use a dedicated miter sled on my table saw. I put some sticky back sandpaper along the fence to help secure my work pieces. As Pug said, you should keep track of your cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I normally use my kreg mitre gauge. I'm looking forward to the shop renovation to build a mitre station into the cabinets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 For my 45° narrow moldings I took a step back and now I'm using a dozuki saw and a wooden miter box and I'm very happy with the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenMasco Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 I use and highly recommend the Dubby Cut off sled. Perfect miters every time with no fuss at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 I use a miter sled on the table saw. As long as the fences are 90d, and if you cut all right miters using the left fence and left miters using the right fence, it will work. Even if your fences were 50d and 40d to the blade, following the above will work - just look goofy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Cut to length on miter saw, shave to perfect with my miter trimmer. It's a guillotine type cast iron device. It does have size limitations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 A miter sled is only as accurate as your setup. I spent 4 hours dialing my Incra Miter5000 sled to do accurate cuts for segmented bowls. No gaps makes me happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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