Chestnut

New toy!

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Ok so i agree with those that say there may be a couple bumps, i mean come on it a huge tool and it gets shipped around with forklifts and what not. I guess it's hard to see in the pictures but it's not that the flaws exist it's how the exist. It isn't from handling or bumps it is from poor manufacturing process. There are areas where the pint looks like they tried to spray this wing while it was covered in oil.

I've slept on it and while i was annoyed when i found it I'm less so now. I'm going to run into the dealer and show them the pictures, and see what the have to say (they are going to be busy as heck and this isn't going to be enjoyable). I did fire it up last night and honestly that sound, how quiet it was, how smooth it ran almost made me forget everything, the paint is not a reflection of the craftsmanship of the rest of the product. I'll measure the arbor run out and see if there are any problems there.

I guess the biggest part i realized is I don't want new wings ... I'd rather make stuff out of wood than spend another 5 hours taking a saw apart and putting it back together.

14 minutes ago, Eric. said:

PS...you shoulda bought a SawStop anyway.  That's probably just karma nipping at you.

While i agree that sawstop makes a top of the line product ...no, I'll take that karma. I can't and won't explain because no one will agree with me why and Marc asked us not to talk about politics on here.

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I would not bat an eye at that paint. I am not collecting but using. That said, log it. Add it to the list to help you negotiate if you find something wrong with the function of the saw. 

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Looks nice, I'd probably complain about it looking like hell, if i buy a ferrari and I find a scratch on it when I pick it up I'd make them fix it or give me something free haha.  My grizzly table saw didn't have any flaws when it arrived, if paint were chipped off or something cosmetic, I probably would have just chalked it up as it's cheaper for a reason, but it did show up perfect haha.

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==>I have been lucky

Yes, you have...

In my case, I bet more damage occurs getting the machine into the shop than during transit... I always end-up with some touch-up paint... I happen to be pretty handy with an airbrush, so repairs are almost invisible --- but of course, I know they're there...

 

==>shoulda bought a SawStop anyway

For a rank novice, small commercial entity, educational institution or high-functioning alcoholic, yea... But with experience, the riving knife is most of the battle...

 

==>totally unacceptable when you're paying premium money for premium tools

If a machine comes packed in a cardboard box strapped to a pallet, it'll probably have some level of scuffing... If in a fir frame & 1/4 ply box strapped to a pallet, less... If in a 16mm BB box with integral pallet, a lot less... It all costs $$...

Of course, you haven't really seen totally unacceptable until you throw the switch and the machine catches fire... Or self-destructs when the trunion bolts shake loose... :)

 

 

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32 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

While i agree that sawstop makes a top of the line product ...no, I'll take that karma. I can't and won't explain because no one will agree with me why and Marc asked us not to talk about politics on here.

Meh, that's like the worst possible reason to not buy a particular brand.  If it's out of your price range, or you find some flaw with the quality, or even if you just don't like the look...fine, I get that.  But because you're that politically foaming-at-the-mouth?  I don't get it.  But hey, your money, your decision, your karma. :D

 

===>If in a 16mm BB box with integral palette, a lot less... It all costs $$...

That's how my PM jointer came and it was flawless.  And that's how I think quality tools should be shipped.  I don't think it's crazy to expect a BRAND NEW machine to arrive at your door in BRAND NEW condition.  If it costs a little more to pack and ship, so be it...roll it into the price and don't tell me.  I mean name another line of products that you pay good money for yet it's all beat up when you get it but that's just part of the deal?  How about if you bought a new laptop or phone and it came with a cracked screen?  Buy a new car and it has scratched up rims.  Your apples have bruises all over them.  Whatever.  Just makes no sense that an industry can send people damaged goods and it's become SOP to shrug their shoulders and simply say, "eat it."

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18 minutes ago, hhh said:

 

==>shoulda bought a SawStop anyway

For a rank novice, small commercial entity, educational institution or high-functioning alcoholic, yea... But with experience, the riving knife is most of the battle...

 

Well at least two of those describe my situation....

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==>That's how my PM jointer came and it was flawless.

Exactly...

 

==>Just makes no sense that an industry can send people damaged goods and it's become SOP to shrug their shoulders and simply say, "eat it."

I'm not saying it's right or tools shouldn't arrive in pristine condition, but it's what the market accepts that counts... You're describing the ideal state, not the state as it exists in the US hobby market... The market channel (read as 'customer') drives industry behavior... The hobby market is price-point driven (between $1500 and $3K for a stationary tool)... It may only cost an additional $75-$100 for proper packing, but that translates to approx $150 - $200 retail... Which must be enough for market drag, or they would do it... If folks in the US really cared about quality over price-point, many of the most common woodworking mfgs wouldn't be in business...

 

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1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

I can't and won't explain because no one will agree with me why and Marc asked us not to talk about politics on here.

You can't even say the "P" word anymore. Daddy won't be happy! 

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Nice saw.  I would talk to your dealer or I would just contact PM directly.  Then you will be in a better position to determine if the resolution is acceptable to you.  I am sure that PM will make it right. 

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Best part about the saw ... It came on 2 white oak pallets YAY!

 

39 minutes ago, Llama said:

You can't even say the "P" word anymore. Daddy won't be happy! 

 

 

:( well i guess i better head to the door. It was nice talking with everyone.

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41 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Best part about the saw ... It came on 2 white oak pallets YAY!

Drop 2 grand on saw,  only excited about pallet oak. That sucks. 

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I need a table saw blade, I'm tossing around between the Freud Ultimate thin kerf cutoff or the Forrest WWII ultra thin kerf. Any other suggestions or opinions?

I spent the better part of the weekend making accessories for the table saw. I started an extension wing with a router lift to decommission the router from my main bench, moved on to a cross cut sled, and finished the weekend with a zero clearance insert.

Made the extension wing torsion style from birch ply. It wasn't Baltic birch but it still had 11 layers so I'm assuming that it's still pretty decent. It doesn't have any voids in the middle and was quite flat to start with. Made some inserts for the router lift out of a cherry short that the hardwood dealer game me, I think he was trying to convince me to buy cherry at the time, it worked.

Made the cross cut sled out of the same birch ply as the extension wing. I did the 5 cut method that Marc outlined and on my first try had .005" error over 24". I did a search and found that Eric and a few others said that wasn't good enough. I adjusted and got immeasurable difference after the 5 cut method. My Mityto caliper is only accurate to the .0005" so i figured that was good enough.

Zero clearance insert was made form hickory and has a very nice friction fit.

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Does the PM 1000 come with its own mobile base like the PM 2000 does? To move the saw you pull the blade tilt wheel away from the body and crank like crazy. The wheels are on worms and lift the saw off the ground.

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1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said:
Why the focus on the thin / extra thin kerf blades? Do you expect to be blasting through a bunch of really hard 8/4 stock?

I use a lot of exotics and i also re-saw with my table saw because my band saw is a, turd. I also like the less dust and lost wood. It seems my kerf it's always too wide.

2 hours ago, davestanton said:
Does the PM 1000 come with its own mobile base like the PM 2000 does? To move the saw you pull the blade tilt wheel away from the body and crank like crazy. The wheels are on worms and lift the saw off the ground.

 

No unfortunately but it is a light saw in comparison. 350 lbs bs 550 lbs. It has a steel cabinet instead of a cast one. It's thick steel though idk what gauge but its like a 1/16th at least.

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On 2/20/2016 at 0:17 AM, Chestnut said:

Ok this miter fence is awesome. I realize that there are better after market alternatives as well but honestly i don't see the need right now. I fixed the blade ... i don't have anything 10" in the table saw type currently so i probably won't zip anything until i fix that.

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So here is the dissappointment, I don't know if it's common or now but the extension wings do not match the rest of the saw in color like not even close.

12742509_10100929001605469_6873656671451

Also the paint on the extension wings seems like it is there for protection during shipping only because half of it has chipped off all on it's own.

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I guess i had higher expectations for a company that labels it's self the gold standard. I guess i did get their starter model the PM1000.

Call Powermatic and tell that during transit the paint on the edges of the wings chipped off. Ask them to send you a can of touch up paint. They will mail it out to you free of charge. I had 1 small chip on the top of my 15HH planer when I took the cover off, I called them and they sent me a can for free when I asked if they had touch up paint. It matches perfectly and comes in a spray can. 

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==>You don't resaw with a table saw.

I've seen Greg Paolini do it, but I agree: get a bandsaw. He saws 80% on the TS and the last remaining with a small bandsaw or handsaw...

The table saw method works, but it also looks like an accident waiting to happen... I suspect you could get away with it for years, then get a sudden kick-back...

You are much safer with the bandsaw...

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16 minutes ago, sheperd80 said:

Unfortunately we have to resaw with the TS at work sometimes. Its not my favorite thing to do, but it works in a pinch. Buying blades for that purpose seems like a step in the wrong direction.

Sorry i should probably say this a better way. I have a 1,75 hp TS and make thick cuts in hard woods a lot. I have probably 200 BF of 3" x 3" hickory that I'm going to cut up as well as other exotics. Resawing is an afterthought, but TS is the only way i can resaw. Also i like loosing less wood to saw dust. Yes run out will be higher but nothing comes off my table saw with out getting a hand plane or sand paper before finishing.

 

1 hour ago, hhh said:

==>You don't resaw with a table saw.

I've seen Greg Paolini do it, but I agree: get a bandsaw. He saws 80% on the TS and the last remaining with a small bandsaw or handsaw...

The table saw method works, but it also looks like an accident waiting to happen... I suspect you could get away with it for years, then get a sudden kick-back...

You are much safer with the bandsaw...

I totally agree. I currently do the 80% method and finish on a band saw. My band saw is a pathetic delta table top. I never stand behind the blade and i use 2 push sticks for feeding wood so my fingers are 6-8" away from the blade at all times.

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12 hours ago, Eric. said:

Buy a real bandsaw and a full kerf 40 tooth WWII.  You don't resaw with a table saw.

As I almost never hj, please allow just this once?. Unless I want a flat tooth 1/8" groove, I always use a thin kerf blade. What are the pros for using a full kerf otherwise?

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