Popular Post wdwerker Posted July 8, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Since the concept of floating shelves has been popular for awhile and I have built several different versions I thought I would share my approach. Here's a rough overview, client wants an 8' long floating shelf unit, 2 shelves 13" apart connected only at the ends. So it's a giant rectangle. 1 1/2" wide strip will be the mount screwed into the studs. 1/2 ply will skin the box that slides over the 1 1/2" mount strip. So I milled up some 5/4 poplar 2 1/2" wide and cut 2 rabbets 5/8 X 1/2" in the back. These will be the mitered face that the 1/2" ply skins attach to. Cut the rough miters on the miter saw then shaved the ends on my miter trimmer ( shooting board would work just as well ) I trimmed one miter on each board then marked the exact lengths and trimmed the other ends. You must pair up the pieces and make the lengths exactly the same to get a successful mitered frame. Paired up and scribed for final trim . When the lengths are exact I marked and cut domino mortices. There wasn't enough room for 2 dominos in the joint so I used some of my custom domino stock. 8 mm sized to fit the middle width setting X 40 mm long. A dry clamping run lead me to use the Bessey corner blocks to hold the clamps while we glued and assembled the joints. A vertical clamp on each corner kept the miters from twisting on the single dominos. I was thrilled when all the miters pulled tight . If you notice holes and flaws in the frame stock this piece is getting filled, sanded, primed several times and sanded again then a few coats of water bourne pre cat Acrylic finish. My supplier is color matching the trim paint . Tomorrow we tackle mitering 1/2 ply to skin the outside, add blocking and a 1/2" ply skin on the inside too. Yes , nails and glue will be used extensively. 23 gauge micro pins disappear so quickly in paint grade pieces. There will probably be as much work in the furniture grade paint finish as building the piece. Clean simple modern work can be much harder than traditional casework. Any flaw shows. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Always love seeing Steve's journals! Pay attention class, WTO has its own master! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Looking forward to how this progresses! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 2 hours ago, TIODS said: Always love seeing Steve's journals! Pay attention class, WTO has its own master! QFT (Quoted For Truth) or Quality Family Time...works either way... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 sweet new things to learn!! keep the pics coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterDrow Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Looks really good! Looking forward to updates on this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wdwerker Posted July 9, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 So I started adding the framework behind the faceframe and then the bottom ply. I added blocking to the inside corners to supply glue surface for the interior ply. As I built up the framework there were a few places where it didn't come out perfectly square ( sound familiar ? ) So as I was cutting the ply and mitering it to fit the outside I needed to slightly angle the corners to fit. I use laminate sample chips as shims, it's far faster than trying to adjust a fence out of square. A couple of shims between the stop and a couple at the fence did the trick. You can use this trick with a sled just as easily as I did with my sliding crosscut fence. I used a straightedge across the blade with my pencil line and then added shims to support the part in that position. Piece by piece I cut and fitted each part then glued & clamped it in place. 1" micro pins were shot to hold the part so I could pull the clamps and fit the next part. Slathered filler over hundreds of tiny nail holes and carefully packed filler into event the tiniest flaw or crack. I designed a 1 1/2" square channel all the way around the back of the project to fit over the strips we are going to mount to the wall. Here you can see how the mount strips will fit into the channel. Next is hours of sanding, inspecting, more filler etc. Repeat as needed ! 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 9, 2016 Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 Looks fantastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 9, 2016 Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 How is the shelf going to attach to the mounting strips? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wdwerker Posted July 9, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 Screws from the underside up into the strip. The top of this shelf will be about 37"high. It will be used as a display shelf & bookcase on a feature wall under some large framed art. If this was single floating shelves the screws would go in from the top when they are above eye level. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted July 9, 2016 Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 This is why "you are the man". Techniques I never would have thought of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prov163 Posted July 9, 2016 Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 I think Steve should have one of those shop cams that is live all the time so we can see his work as he goes. Maybe a speaker to so we can ask questions as he works - LOL. Eric too, but I'm a little concerned about the butt scratching. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ..Kev Posted July 9, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 20 minutes ago, prov163 said: I think Steve should have one of those shop cams that is live all the time so we can see his work as he goes. Maybe a speaker to so we can ask questions as he works - LOL. Eric too, but I'm a little concerned about the butt scratching. I think Steve brings in dancing girls while he works to keep him motivated so, that would be cool 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted July 9, 2016 Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 Just now, TIODS said: I think Steve brings in dancing girls while he works to keep him motivated so, that would be cool LOL Yeah, Steve may be old but not obsolete. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted July 9, 2016 Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 Now there, is a teacher we can all be proud to say we know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 There were 2 girls on the shop table once upon a time.......knew I should have taken pictures ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wdwerker Posted July 12, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Sanded and primed today. Didn't spray the channel for the wall mount strip because it would interfere with the fit. The first coat of primer always makes the slightest flaws apparent. After we sand the primer we will fill the minor flaws and apply a 2nd coat of primer. A clean simple modern paint finish is as much work as building the case. If this was a stain and finish piece many of the tiny flaws would never be apparent . We had to spray all the visible surfaces and let them dry then flip & rotate the case to spray the other side. Pieces this large don't work well with painters pyramids so we put the case up on 6" square boxes with a clean cotton rag as a cushion . 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Looks great, Steve! You ain't kidding about that "clean, modern painted finish" being a lot of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Looks good. Do you mind if I ask how many hours you have into this project and what you think the total will be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Super clean work as always Steve! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Steve, looks good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wdwerker Posted July 12, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 After filling every tiny flaw we could find the whole piece got hand sanded 320 grit. Wiped it down to clear the dust and went over every inch with a bright light to find any flaws we missed. After filling those flaws it got re-sanded 320 grit. Dont sand filled spots until the tiny spot is all that shows. Leave a slight haze and the perimeter of the filled spot won't telegraph through the next layer of primer. Second coat of primer brings the surfaces a little closer to perfection. In the morning it will get 320 sanded again & inspected. If we don't find any flaws that need filling it will be ready for the finish coats. 26.5 hours so far , I'm guessing 33 hours total to build and finish. Delivery and install should be another 2 to 4 hours. Most of the time was 2 guys. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Still knocking out the great work Steve! Tell Rick I said hi! Helluva job! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Steve, will you do a clear topcoat after the second coat and prior to delivering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 The final finish I am using comes in clear and a tintable base. It's a pre catalyzed Acrylic waterbourne. Most suppliers will only sell it to pro shops. So the top coats will basically have the clear topcot built in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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