The Nut House V2


Chestnut

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1 minute ago, I B said:

Nice! I made one of those too, changed my life.  Are the front parts of your clamps attached to the board or is it just floating? The clamps I got had holes so I screwed them into the front board. Just wondering. 

https://i.imgur.com/NtjQGIF.jpg 

 

Congrats on the PJ aircraft carrier. 

Free float. I was debating drilling holes to add screws. Did you ever run yours unsecured? The one nice thing about free float is it's easier to adjust the vise in and out but how many times and i going to move it more than 1/2"?

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17 minutes ago, I B said:

That's a good point. When I have to move it out, it's a 2 step kind of dance. Move this side out, move that side out, move this side out etc... The whole thing take less than 10 seconds but yeah... It's rare. 

My other though is to secure 1 side but not the other to get the benefit of both or have holes if i need to put a screw in or take it out for what ever reason. For the few times you need to move it a long way it'd probably be faster to zip the screws out and then back in.

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14 minutes ago, blackoak said:

very nice shop, congrats. do you have a water heater/ furnace in the basement ? not sure if  thats a concern or not, dust in the air. I tend to worry about stuff, sorry.

Yep and no worries. I do my best to keep the dust away from that area and have a HEPA cyclone. I figure if some airborne dust gets in there it's just extra fuel burned and out the exhaust, maybe it'd make my gas bill cheaper :D. My water heater has a sealed combustion chamber and as soon as this furnace craps out that one will go the same route.

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Depends on how old the water heater is. They have the combustion chamber sealed up so much these days they come with a spark igniter cause you can't get in there with a match.  But we never had an issue with the water heater that stood 6 ft from the tablesaw when I was growing up. We might blow the dust off the top of it when we cleaned up.....

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Just now, wdwerker said:

Depends on how old the water heater is. They have the combustion chamber sealed up so much these days they come with a spark igniter cause you can't get in there with a match.  But we never had an issue with the water heater that stood 6 ft from the tablesaw when I was growing up. We might blow the dust off the top of it when we cleaned up.....

The one i have is the new sealed up versions you light the pilot with an ignitor, i just wish it went to electronic ignition honestly a pilot light costs as much to run as a 100 watt light bulb. More stuff to fail but with the hard water around here water heaters don't last long as it is.

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I'm still hesitant on the tankless ones. I"m not sure how well they'd combat the cold water temperatures we see in the winter. I don't know what they do to make them not last but it stinks. In my Bismarck house the water heater was a year older than i was and was still working great.

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The last 2 hot water tanks I had both started leaking within about a year of the 6 year warranty expiring. 2 plumbers have told me that the tanks with a longer warranty are the same as the ones with a shorter warranty. They just charge a little extra for the longer warranty.

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23 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I'm still hesitant on the tankless ones. I"m not sure how well they'd combat the cold water temperatures we see in the winter. I don't know what they do to make them not last but it stinks. In my Bismarck house the water heater was a year older than i was and was still working great.

Do you ever replace the anode rods?

I was told you're supposed to replace those once every 5 years or so.   I've never done it.

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I guess i never knew water heaters had annode rods. Interesting. Those rods are huge. Nuts get installed on water mains and they are just like 2" but last 50+ years. Probably don't have to replace it just knock the scale of hit it with some sand paper and stick er back in.

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28 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

Never replaced an anode rod in 40 + years. But we have great water in our area. Never have problems with minerals or corrosion. I guess it varies by region, water source etc.  Anode is a sacrificial part

Yeah, tartar (calcium) is the enemy for those rods, you also see it accumulating in your stainless steel teapot over time. It's a big issue with well-water, but less common if one is hooked to a public water system.

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5 minutes ago, Immortan D said:

Yeah, tartar (calcium) is the enemy for those rods, you also see it accumulating in your stainless steel teapot over time. It's a big issue with well-water, but less common if one is hooked to a public water system.

They don't soften here like what i was used to in ND. I have one of those fancy ion exchange water softeners though and they do help a lot. Filters for water that goes in coffee pots or teapots helps those over time as well.

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1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

I guess i never knew water heaters had annode rods. Interesting. Those rods are huge. Nuts get installed on water mains and they are just like 2" but last 50+ years. Probably don't have to replace it just knock the scale of hit it with some sand paper and stick er back in.

I didn't realize it either.   Here's this thing you are supposed to do standard maintenance on, and nobody says a thing about it.

 

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After fighting a pop off valve with a tiny leak I routed a copper pipe to a hub drain.  I operate it maybe once every few months.  I've also got a drain pan under the water heater and I flush any debris from the bottom of the tank every year or so.. I still hook a garden hose to it but the pan catches the enevitable drips.

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No, no, no, and no! My comment was not meant to be off topic! When my valve burst, remember....this is a hot water tank...the steam and splatter would have ruined any nearby project. As it was, it quickly turned my house into a sauna. This was easy to correct quickly, but could have spelled ruin for many projects. 

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