Chestnut Posted December 7, 2017 Report Share Posted December 7, 2017 11 hours ago, K Cooper said: It’s currently 42*, raining and windy here and I’m dreaming of July! I flew into Minneapolis/St. Paul several times, in route to Sioux Falls to pheasant hunt in November and each time, I wondered why! I mean, you guys have good looking ladies but we do too! So now, I keep my ass at home in the winter. Did I just hj another thread? Sorry. Awe man i love it. I don't know how you do Houston in July. I don't mind winter but I've been living with it my whole life. I think it's just one of those things you get used to. It's interesting to learn that you went pheasant hunting in Sioux Falls, I've lived in some of the best birding areas for a long time and have never picked up pheasant hunting it feels shameful. 2 hours ago, bushwacked said: None of the knots actually went all the way through. I was surprised. So it made it a little easier prepping. That's super nice. I had to do some epoxying last night and used blue tape to keep it in. I've also tried with success CA glue and accelerator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2017 On 12/6/2017 at 5:59 AM, wtnhighlander said: BW, were you unable to find these Devcon kits at your local Lowes or Home Depot? https://m.lowes.com/pd/Devcon-Clear-Epoxy-Adhesive/4006643 These will get you by. But in the long run, you'll find the West System stuff more versatile. Quick cure time will really bite you on a bigger job. Going to get this today just to not have to stall the project anymore than it already is. Then I’ll be ordering some west systems haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 7, 2017 Report Share Posted December 7, 2017 I have that version of Devcon epoxy in my shop right now ! After hearing about West systems so much I'm going to order some too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2017 1 hour ago, wdwerker said: I have that version of Devcon epoxy in my shop right now ! After hearing about West systems so much I'm going to order some too. Ok good to hear Steve I bought that at Lowe’s over lunch break to finish the knots. Then going to order some west systems to have on hand for the next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Beware, the WS 105+207 combo I'm using takes a good 24 hrs to cure. At least in my garage's current arctic temps! Seems the 20-year cycle of cold winters has made its way back to Tennessee. Ten years ago I was wearing shorts and a T shirt on Thanksgiving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 did some gluing up. Dominoes to help hold level. Will do the epoxy touchups probably tomorrow. Then work on squaring up the top and get to final dimension and then the fun sanding starts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Cutting down to size and the final epoxy touchups ... If my tracksaw was kind of struggling getting through 5/4 alder do you think my blade is getting dull? Or something that thick just takes a little longer to cut? Mince this dries I’m assuming just sand off the excess or what’s the easiest way to get rid of the excess epoxy? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Sanded to 220 and rounded over the edges. I did have 1 not that turned out like this ... all the others were fine. Guess I just pour a little in to fill the holes then sand that patch again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 6 hours ago, bushwacked said: Sanded to 220 and rounded over the edges. I did have 1 not that turned out like this ... all the others were fine. Guess I just pour a little in to fill the holes then sand that patch again. I've had this a couple of times. Did you try a heat gun or blow torch? That usually takes care of the bubbles. I did watch one video that suggested pouring from the underside if possible. that way the bubbles are on the bottom of the knot. Not always possible if the knot is on top though. The easiest way I found to get rid of excess epoxy is a rough grit on the ROS. It takes quite a few swipes with a plane to cut it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 I did not try the heat gun or blow torch. I can try that if my next patching doesn’t go well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 2 hours ago, bushwacked said: I did not try the heat gun or blow torch. I can try that if my next patching doesn’t go well. I always run the torch (heat gun works too) over the curing epoxy for exactly this reason. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Just be careful to avoid OVER heating it. Aside from scorching the wood, too much heat can make tge epoxy produce even more bubbles. Just wave the flame or heat gun nozzle over the puddle a couple of times, it doesn't take much, usually. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 3 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: Just be careful to avoid OVER heating it. Aside from scorching the wood, too much heat can make tge epoxy produce even more bubbles. Just wave the flame or heat gun nozzle over the puddle a couple of times, it doesn't take much, usually. Agreed.. You'll be able to see the bubbles pop so, you'll know when you're done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 19 hours ago, bushwacked said: If my tracksaw was kind of struggling getting through 5/4 alder do you think my blade is getting dull? With out knowing the power of the Makita it might be dull but it might just be dirty. I soak mine in Simple Green a few minutes and brush the heavy spots with an old tooth brush rinse it in water. Its amazing that a little build up on the blade makes you think it is dull. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Scrape a fingernail across the tooth of a blade. If tiny curls shave off the blade is sharp enough. If you get crumbly powdery results from scraping the blade is dull. Hold blade w teeth facing away from you, put fingernail under a tooth and pull it towards your body. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 On 12/9/2017 at 1:08 PM, bushwacked said: my tracksaw was kind of struggling getting through 5/4 alder do you think my blade is getting dull? Or something that thick just takes a little longer to cut? If it's struggling in alder, I think a dull blade is the best likey offender. If it's not the blade, the saw has something seriously wrong with it's balls. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 On 12/5/2017 at 11:24 AM, Chet said: Nut is correct. I think the only thing that would concern me is if it had the possibility of freezing solid but I don't even know if that is a concern. I froze mine a couple of years ago. Emailed West Systems and they gave me instructions for fixing it. I can't remember what it was now but involved heating pads and turning the can upside down. Now my only problem is they tend to rust on me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 2 hours ago, Brendon_t said: If it's struggling in alder, I think a dull blade is the best likey offender. If it's not the blade, the saw has something seriously wrong with it's balls. Ya when I was cutting it it felt like it may stop so I stopped moving and let it pick up a little more speed and then continued. Was thinking of picking up this blade ... is there any others I should consider? Diablo D0641X 6-1/2 by 40 Finishing Saw Blade 5/8-Inch Arbor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042U2XFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7kGlAbR65RP04 Dryfit went well let’s look good in the area I was hoping to put them got my danish oil on. 2 costs per the directions. Tomorrow I will do the bottom and then let sit overnight again and should all be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 I almost always get another few months of clean use out of blades just cleaning them. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 I do the bottom side first, then it sits on the pyramids while you do the top. Just food for thought. Your progress is looking quite good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 4 minutes ago, Brendon_t said: I almost always get another few months of clean use out of blades just cleaning them. Good to know ... I am probably going to grab some of this since it was recommended. Just to try out and see if it makes a difference. I think this is the version recommended ... Simple Green 11001 Clean Building All-Purpose Cleaner Concentrate, 1gal Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017D1GG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WCGlAbK5WY05G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 Yeah simple green is great. You can also cut it heavily down with water and it still work very well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 This reminds me that i need to clean my own saw blades. I always dreaded it and thought cleaning them was going to be tedious and annoying but it went fast and was pretty easy. I just stuck them in the sink with some simple green and use a plastic bristle brush. This also reminds me that i need to steal back the 80t freud blade my dad stole from me when i sold him my old miter saw. The blade was not in the deal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 11, 2017 Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 Router bits benefit from frequent cleaning as well. I take the bearing off and give it a squirt of bearing lube. The build-up of resin leads to heat & dullness . I use Bostik bearing lube almost every time I change bits. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 10 hours ago, wdwerker said: Router bits benefit from frequent cleaning as well. I take the bearing off and give it a squirt of bearing lube. The build-up of resin leads to heat & dullness . I use Bostik bearing lube almost every time I change bits. A good idea there too. I’ll work on my most used router bits too. Put the final coat on the bottom tonight .... i noticed that on the bottom. It was runoff from when I did the top and edges. I rubbed out most of it though but note to self take a clean towel and wipe the underside when done to get this excess crap off. Will get the legs installed tomorrow and I’ll take some pics of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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