Scooby

Choosing between Shop Fox W1837 and Rigid R4520 + Incra TS-LS

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Hello everyone,

I am a beginner and trying to buy a good table saw in the range $700-$1000 as a long term investment for my hobby. I am impressed by the Shop Fox W1837 with following points:

  • 2 HP, 120-Volt/240-Volt, single-phase (prewired for 120-Volt)
  • cabinet-mounted trunnions
  • serpentine belt and pulley system for smooth and quiet operation with better power transfer than a standard V-belt drive system

On the other hand, the Rigid R4520 which is quite popular with both the good and bad reputation. It is cheaper ($750 vs $1000) and the build is not as good. It does not have any of the good points listed above but I can install the Incra  TS-LS ($500) later if I want to increase the accuracy. Maybe the Rigid saw is more than good for me to start my woodworking journey.

So let me know what do you think? I am not so hurry with the purchase because I need to setup my shop in the garage first. Thanks in advance!!!

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I think I would lean toward the Grizzly if it were me.  Grizzly has a pretty strong reputation and customer service.  That Incra fence will go on the Grizzly as well if you wanted it.  I have the Incra LS fence system on my router and really like it.  Just note that it takes up some extra space to the right side of the saw so it will increase the over all foot print of what ever saw you end up with. 

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I was looking on Grizzly's website last week and I saw that Shop Fox on there making it look like it was a great discount when it was at that same price on other sites.  I hate sleazy sales practices.

I'd rather pay $200 more and get the $1200 Jet.  They stand by their product by offering a 5-year warranty.  

https://www.amazon.com/Jet-725005K-ProShop-Stamped-Steel/dp/B07BDSSCJV/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=jet+table+saw&qid=1590783553&sr=8-5

The same saw at 30" rip capacity was $1200 but I see it's gone up since I looked at it.  Amazon.com does that all the time; they're pretty shady too.  Best not to shop on there until you're ready to buy.

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I have the Ridgid 4512, the predecessor to the 4520. When it was a couple hundred cheaper it was worth it, but I can't really recommend buying it since it's gotten so expensive in the US. I'd agree with @RichardA on the grizzly. Not that the Ridgid isn't a decent saw, but it isn't the same value for money.

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You need a jointer. If you have a table saw you need one. Or learn how with hand planes. You cant put a crooked edge to the saw fence. The jointer resolves it quick.

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52 minutes ago, curlyoak said:

You need a jointer. If you have a table saw you need one. Or learn how with hand planes. You cant put a crooked edge to the saw fence. The jointer resolves it quick.

@curlyoak yes, the no.5 jack plane and a low angle block plane are in my shopping list as a starting point. I will save money for a jointer. Thanks

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Scooby, good luck with your choice. I have a Jet ts but also have a Grizz bs and jointer and have had no problem with either so have no opinion of their customer service. Post a pic of your new ts! 

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Ive pondered the Incra TS-LS many times as it's got a reputation for being quite accurate, but I don't have a lot of room around my TS so it would induce a lot of "walking around" to get to the other side. But for doing repetitive, repeatable work in a hurry I don't think it can be beat. Meanwhile, I carry on with my tape measure and the stock fence on the Ridgid.

I have a small Cutech jointer and also a 100+ year old Sargent fore plane I use for jointing. The Sargent is as long as some jointer planes they sell these days so it has a double function for me. I put an ever-so-slight camber on the (Hock) cutting edge and it's sweet to use when I need it. Takes a fine shaving! The jointer is small enough it doesn't need its own stand; it's also light enough I can put it underneath my lathe (which does have its own stand) when not in use.

E2878533-DD7A-414F-831A-A14D7E6EC14C_1_105_c.jpeg

50E43E97-9D2D-47C2-B943-DCD4C285616E_1_105_c.jpeg

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On 6/1/2020 at 6:48 AM, Scooby said:

@Chip Sawdust very nice setup!!! Is that CUTECH 8" jointer? How many hand planes you think I will need to start with?

It's a six inch; seems to do everything I need. Sometimes I wish for a longer table but then I just add extensions and carefully align them.

How many hand planes? It's a bit of an addiction. I'd start with a nice block plane then a smoother, then add a shoulder plane for when you start doing tenon joints. Others will have other ideas no doubt. :) Don't go too cheap on them as, for example, the Kobalt stuff you get at Lowe's requires more maintenance and fiddling to get them to work than they're worth. No need to ask how I know!

Here's my favorite LN block plane (low angle, in the shavings) and my 100 year old Sargent smoother with a Hock blade in it. I love these two planes but I also have the small LN plane all brass which is great for end grain and fine touch-up work.

E551E03A-456A-48A9-ABFB-18E068A2908A_1_105_c.jpeg

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16 minutes ago, Chip Sawdust said:

Not a great pic but here's the little LN plane; it's also their least expensive but it drives like a Cadillac :)

D4B780CF-C45E-458C-A5B9-39BC6413097B_1_105_c.jpeg

I love that plane! definitely one of my favorites too

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Buy a good blade, and put the original somewhere you can't find it. It's gonna be junk.  But it will work if you send the good blade out for sharpening. 

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1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said:

@Chip Sawdust, I'd love to see how you manage to extend the jointer beds. I have a PC / Delta equivalent, and you've all seen my struggles to make it useful....

 

He's even turned it into a jointer plane.  Scary as hell!

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1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said:

you've all seen my struggles to make it useful....

Thats cause you think it is a hand plane.:P

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16 hours ago, Scooby said:

@Chip Sawdust is it this one: 

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/small-block-planes?path=block-planes&node=4072

Should I buy an extra blade or the plane already comes with a blade?

Also, should I buy no.5 jack plane or no.4 1/2 as a smooth plane?

 

That's the beast :)

The other one I highly recommend is this one (which may be a better all-around choice):

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/adjustable-mouth-block-planes-?path=block-planes&node=4072

I didn't buy extra blades for the new LN planes. It'll be a long time before I need one, if ever. I don't change the blades for different sharpening angles for these planes.

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16 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

@Chip Sawdust, I'd love to see how you manage to extend the jointer beds. I have a PC / Delta equivalent, and you've all seen my struggles to make it useful....

 

Next time I need to do it I'll send pics. I have to clear my bench and set up the outfeed. Infeed I normally don't bother unless the board is thick and heavy and so far (cross fingers) it's been OK that way. I've only done boards about 6' long IIRC. TBH, it's easier to use my foreplane on those boards now that I have one.

Part of the problem is you can run your heavy board over the jointer a few times, look at the surface and say wow, that looks great. Then you realize you've turned it into a trapezoid.... You can still square it up on the TS but it's a waste of material, and with 8/4 or better that gets kinda spendy. Norm spoke of being a Yankee cheap-o; I'm worse! Which occasionally gets me into trouble... but we won't go into that.

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@Scooby I highly recommend Garrett Hack's "The Handplane Book" if you want to learn pretty much all you need to learn about hand planes. I go back to it time and again.

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On 6/2/2020 at 6:14 PM, treeslayer said:

 I think i spot a Harry Epstein square, i do have one of those!

I had three of those, some critter, or my shop ate one, and I haven't been able to find it in over a year., Maybe it felt over used and went back to Harry.

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