BillyJack Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Any recommendations. What works best 2020? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Depends where it is and what it's for. I'd try hitting it with PB Blaster or something similar first. A few little taps trying to tighten/loosen it and more spray/sitting is good. Options escalate from there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 One of the bolts for the trolling motor. 3 came out fine but one is fighting me. Phillips head top with a 1/2 nut. You know how it is, can't get a good bite on the Phillips head... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Liquid Wrench beats PB every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post treeslayer Posted December 1, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 I’ve used Kroil for years and it works great for stuck bolts, it gets the copper fouling out of rifle barrels the penetration is excellent 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 A little well-directed heat works great, if the bolt isn't surrounded by flammable or melt-able materials. We use a 'flame wrench' all the time at work! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 For screw heads, the kind of impact driver that you hit with a hammer. The original "Impact Driver". "hammer impact driver" found them on Google. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 It's incredible how well an old school impact driver will make a seized Phillips screw turn. It's the hammer blow forcing the bit into the screw head that keeps all that torque from camming out the bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 2 hours ago, Tom King said: For screw heads, the kind of impact driver that you hit with a hammer. The original "Impact Driver". "hammer impact driver" found them on Google. +1. As a teen, I spent / wasted a lot of time on various dirt bikes. Screws in the aluminum crankcases were all but impossible to remove without one of these drivers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 Cant impact it has a Phillips head on top.. After frustration and at this point in my life I empty my hands and walk away I watched bass tournaments on the tv and went back down I pulled a set of tools that I used to work on the helical planer on a $100k sander/planer. I found the #3 Phillip's put the box that built into a 3/8 ratchet extension. Maybe with a bit of force it would break loose. The Phillips head ratchet gave me more bite than a regular Phillips screw driver. Screw driver kept slipping.. Lucky it did...cheap tools worth every penny.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 2 hours ago, BillyJack said: Cant impact it has a Phillips head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 They mean one of thesehttps://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769059?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Jf-BRB-EiwAWDtEGv4hXbhqIr2PxGA4bm1W6kV_epFGK7bZhXeY-VwGopIh7IqUVDNf1BoChx8QAvD_BwE. . . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 Drill it out or show it a persuader 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 Those hammer impact drivers work fine on Phillips heads. You don't even need to hit it very hard. I even use one on small Phillips head machine screws in old sliding glass doors, when one needs to be disassembled. If one does need to be drilled out, left handed bits are best because most of the time, it will get to some critical point, and all of a sudden the screw/machine bolt backs right out on the end of the drill bit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 I think misunderstanding persists. The manual impact driver excels at removing Phillips and often comes in a kit with Phillips. $12-25 in all manner of hits on Google. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 I should probably order one of those manual impact drivers before I need it. It's been on my radar for a while now but now that our oldest car is only 7 years old not as needed as when I had my 18 year old Jeep. Whatever you spray on it, might as well spray all the other bolts even if you don't need them off now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 11 hours ago, BillyJack said: Cant impact it has a Phillips head on top The hammer driven impact driver was born to loosen Phillips screws. Try it, you'll like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 As I mentioned I couldn't get a grip with a long handled Phillips head screw driver. The Phillips head ratchet with a rachel underneath worked in seconds. I knew the bolt wasn't rusted just momentarily locked. Now elsewhere on the boat Im gonna need a grinder. Those are regular steel that's been in the rain for 10 years... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 So I got the bolts out and cleaned up. The trolling motor mounts here but considering IPE or Sapele for the Bow. Any ideals... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 4, 2020 Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 I’ve done a lot of ipe decks and would stand by any of them. I’ve never used sapele. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 Sapele is used in and on a lot of boats. If needed a finish to maintain quality.... IPE does not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 4, 2020 Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 I tihnk Ipe is a great wood for a place where you want it to last for ever and not do anything to it. Only downside is it's HEAVY. but a small piece isn't really that significant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted December 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 I figured I'd take it down to 3/8. If its sapele I'll resaw and go for 1/4 and band around it with 3/4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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