wtnhighlander Posted January 17, 2022 Report Posted January 17, 2022 Fine, dry grounds mixed in clear epoxy will turn that little divit into a very convincing 'bark inclusion'. I just mix in the grounds until the epoxy has an almost dough-like consistency. 1 Quote
pkinneb Posted January 17, 2022 Author Report Posted January 17, 2022 On 1/16/2022 at 6:08 PM, wtnhighlander said: Fine, dry grounds mixed in clear epoxy will turn that little divit into a very convincing 'bark inclusion'. I just mix in the grounds until the epoxy has an almost dough-like consistency. So let them dry out first? just in a filter thing? I don't drink coffee so not positive how that works. 1 Quote
wtnhighlander Posted January 17, 2022 Report Posted January 17, 2022 I don't drink coffee either. I snagged a big filter full from work, and let them dry well before mixing into epoxy. I suspect using wet grounds would go cloudy or something. 1 1 Quote
Coop Posted January 17, 2022 Report Posted January 17, 2022 On 1/16/2022 at 8:20 PM, wtnhighlander said: I don't drink coffee either. I snagged a big filter full from work, and let them dry well before mixing into epoxy. I suspect using wet grounds would go cloudy or something. And probably keep you awake at night. 2 Quote
Mark J Posted January 17, 2022 Report Posted January 17, 2022 13 hours ago, pkinneb said: So let them dry out first? just in a filter thing? I don't drink coffee so not positive how that works. Yes, like Ross said. I'm told you van also use new dry grounds. Paul if you have a spare bit of the wood, drill a hole and fill it with the mix. When it cures sand it smooth and see for yourself. The grounds won't sand as smooth as the epoxy, but that's a bigger issue for me than it may be for you. Some other caveats (which you may already knowl: If you need a dam to hold the epoxy in place, I used hot melt glue. I've seen people use various tapes, too. You probably want an epoxy pour that fills the cavity, so air bubbles don't show. A less viscous mix might be better, but if you drill a couple of test holes you can try different viscosities. To get rid of air bubbles you can use a hair dryer, or judicious application of a heat gun. 1 1 Quote
Popular Post pkinneb Posted January 23, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Posted January 23, 2022 This week I worked on the under side of the arms, crest rail shaping, and also fit the first back slat. Shaping the back of the arm with rasps. First I mark the part with marker and then start shaping. Then on to the crest rail again used rasps and then a card scraper but couldn't get the shape I wanted on the bottom edge so I made a custom sanding block and that worked. That'll work for now Then I spent more time then I'd like to admit fitting and rough shaping the first back slat. Next up the remaining four back slats and a decision on whether to do inlay on them. Have a great week everyone and as always thanks for following along! 8 Quote
Mark J Posted January 24, 2022 Report Posted January 24, 2022 It's starting to look really sharp. 1 Quote
Popular Post Mark J Posted January 24, 2022 Popular Post Report Posted January 24, 2022 It never ceases to amaze me that you, @bmac (and others) can go at a piece of wood with a rasp, a tool which no matter how French you make it does not scream finesse to me, and then shape an arm or leg for a chair, and get it right. I can barely make a chamfer on a compound curve--and then these are not perfect. Artful, maybe, but not perfect. 2 1 Quote
Popular Post pkinneb Posted January 29, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Posted January 29, 2022 This week I was able to get the back slats fitted. I just did the ends so I still have material to work with on the final size design. I had them laid out so I could see where they looked the best. Some I cut off one side others both just working to get the grain as good as I could: Next I fit the bottoms. I used an 1/8" router bit first then fine tuned with a rasp and sand paper. Then the tops following the same process. Next I worked on laying out the design towards the top After that I cleaned up for the day. I hope to finish the slats tomorrow. BTW the circles are spots that got dented in the steaming process I will use an Iron, cloth, and water to steam those out in the morning. Current status Also wanted to say while I have had the adjustable bench for years this is the first project where it has gotten use. It is very nice to be able to lower and raise the chair as I work different areas. 8 Quote
Popular Post pkinneb Posted February 13, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Posted February 13, 2022 Been really busy at work and haven't had much shop time but got out there today to work on the slats...can't believe it took five hours but they are done except for final sanding. First up I had to draw in the curves between my bad eyes and the walnut I had to use the magnifying light but got it done I don't use my #3 often but worked well for trimming/ cleaning up the slats Then got out the iron to steam out some dents caused during the steam bending process I used a hand held router to do one edge then the router table for the other. I needed the fence in place of the bearing becuase after the first cut there is no wood left to reference against. Next up was file work for the ends and part of the curve that couldn't be done with a router These little sanding blocks come in handy as well And with that I'm at a decision point to inlay or not... 7 Quote
wtnhighlander Posted February 13, 2022 Report Posted February 13, 2022 Chair looks awesome! That vise seems like the perfect thing for all the odd-shaped parts. 1 Quote
pkinneb Posted February 14, 2022 Author Report Posted February 14, 2022 On 2/13/2022 at 5:32 PM, wtnhighlander said: Chair looks awesome! That vise seems like the perfect thing for all the odd-shaped parts. Thank you! Definitely has been invaluable on this build especially for $99. The adjustable bench has been great as well for this project. 1 Quote
Chet Posted February 14, 2022 Report Posted February 14, 2022 Great work again Paul. The chair is starting to look real sharp. 1 Quote
Coop Posted February 14, 2022 Report Posted February 14, 2022 I really like how the back slats extend down past the seat. Beautiful work! 1 Quote
Mark J Posted February 14, 2022 Report Posted February 14, 2022 What sort of inlay are you mulling over? Quote
pkinneb Posted February 15, 2022 Author Report Posted February 15, 2022 On 2/14/2022 at 10:36 AM, Mark J said: What sort of inlay are you mulling over? This is what he does on some of his 2 Quote
wtnhighlander Posted February 16, 2022 Report Posted February 16, 2022 Ok, now THAT is just showing off! Getting into fancy guitar territory, but it sure looks cool. 1 Quote
gee-dub Posted February 16, 2022 Report Posted February 16, 2022 That chair is looking awesome. Great journal ride too. Thanks! 1 Quote
Chet Posted February 17, 2022 Report Posted February 17, 2022 That is some pretty small intricate inlay. I'll be honest, I don't have the patience required to approach something like that. 1 Quote
pkinneb Posted February 17, 2022 Author Report Posted February 17, 2022 On 2/17/2022 at 11:58 AM, Chet said: That is some pretty small intricate inlay. I'll be honest, I don't have the patience required to approach something like that. Not sure I do either especially with everything I have already put into it. Trying to get a hold of Michael with a couple of questions and then will make a decision. In the meantime I am working on a L fence attachment for my TS as well as the templates for the Morley bar stool. Quote
Popular Post pkinneb Posted February 25, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Posted February 25, 2022 Today I received some supplies I need to try out an Ebonizing process I found in the Feb 2021 issue of Popular Woodworking magazine article by Brian Boggs. The first step is to dissolve a pad of steel wool in Heinz white vinegar, apparently this will take about a week so I decided to start even though I am still missing one item. It said to put a small hole in the cap otherwise the gas produced can burst the container 5 Quote
wtnhighlander Posted February 25, 2022 Report Posted February 25, 2022 Paul, I have used the iron acetate (steel wool in vinegar) method with mixed results, even on the same species. The Brian Boggs recipe seems pretty good. Here is an example in use. 1 Quote
Chestnut Posted February 25, 2022 Report Posted February 25, 2022 Hum interesting i recently read that article from Mr. Boggs and he mentioned bark powder tea to get an even result. I was thinking of this for a future project myself. (I didn't watch the video but read an article https://www.popularwoodworking.com/finishing/ebonizing_wood/) The bark powder isn't expensive I thought about grabbing some. https://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/BKT2-P3850.aspx#:~:text=This Bark Tan %26 Dye (Quebracho,natural leather dye like Quebracho. I feel like 2 lbs is a lot I'd split it with ya if you were interested Paul. Quote
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