avion2001 Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 How do I remove chatter marks from a board when trying to plane it smooth. I have a sharp blade and an trying to prep the surface for finishing. I just can't seem to get this one section of a lamination smooth. I have tried going in both directions and it doesn't seem to help. Any suggestion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Drum sander comes to mind...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Species? Sharp (1) and high angle or chipbreaker (2) are your friends. Scraping is a good option once you get closer, but that tearout looks a little deep right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Looks like African mahogany? which has reversing grain and can be an absolute nightmare for tearout. Without a drum sander or a shelix head in your planer you may be looking at a problem. Hand planes, even with the sharpest blade and highest angle will still struggle with that reversing grain in African mahogany. You could try scrapers...but that's gonna be a LOT of scraping. Same story for a ROS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avion2001 Posted September 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 It's Goncalo Alves. I have been using a No. 4 smoothing plane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 That's not what I call chatter. That's straight up torn out wood chunks. You say you've tried in both directions. Have you tried running tangential? Skewing your iron? Do you have anything higher angle than the standard #4 frog? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 sharper knives and lighter passes. Brandon is correct, that is tear out, not chatter. Only fix is light and sharp. Some woods are tear out prone, so the goal is to get the tear out shallow enough that sanding or scraping will take care of it. Sharp and shallow is your only hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Tearout and you've got a sharp No.4 -- I'll assume std pitch -- and no drum sander... So you need to go from type 1 to type 2 shavings on that stock with the #4...I'd go for a narrow 25d back bevel on the face side of the #4 iron to bring the effective angle of attack to around 70d... I can't find a good threat here on WTO, so I've found one on SMC: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?18403-Back-Bevel-for-Plane-IronsHere's an article from LV: http://www.leevalley.com/us/shopping/TechInfo.aspx?p=57106These days, folks associate a back-bevel with the ruler trick... That's not what were talking about here... We're talking about imparting a deliberate (and narrow -- say 1/32") bevel to the face side. This is done after final honing of the bevel-side... You've now got a 70d (assuming a 45d bedding angle) effective cutting angle... Take super-fine shavings... It'll take a while... The plane will be hard to push, so either get yourself a second iron, or grind-out the bevel when you're done...Another trick... Wipe-down the area with naphtha... Keep it wet while you work...Purchase a BU smoother...Purchase a drum sander...Purchase a scraper plane...That's about all the tricks for now...BTW: Don't use a scraper -- the dish you'll leave will be more obvious than the tearout. Good luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Last resort trick: get different wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Fill them with epoxy and have a beer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 The age old paradox: retune what you have, or buy more tools. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 If you're using a number a #4 I assume you want to use hand tools. Therefore set the cap iron properly. A quick search in youtube will help. Did you do initial stock prep with machines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avion2001 Posted September 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 I was thinking the epoxy thing. Is the epoxy colorless? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncfowler Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 I know I'm going to get slack for this one but how about a sanding frame for a belt sander at least you can clean up the tear out, and maybe even end up with a good finish.http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/use-a-belt-sander-frame.aspx , just a thought , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 ==>I know I'm going to get slack for this oneSlack... no... Beaten with a large stick... maybe... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 I was thinking the epoxy thing. Is the epoxy colorless?Almost but you can optionally add a tint or even sawdust to the two part transparent epoxy mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Belt sander would be ideal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avion2001 Posted September 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 Thanks for all the ideas guys! I think what I am going to do is tint some epoxy and fill it in. I am not to worried about it really, because it is a desk top and I plan on puting a hutch above it that will mostly cover up that area. But for in the future...is the consensus that a steaper angle plane or card scraper a better way to go when starting to smooth wood like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 A higher angle does OFTEN times help in taming difficult grain. Often because not always. Sharp sharp starp is definately a start every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 I thought that's what a low angle plane was for, to tackle difficult wood. Now I'm confussed, but that happens often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 (edited) Coop, with a low angle plane you can micro bevel to achieve the high angle without an investment in a whole plane. The key is not that it is low angle in this instance, the key is that the bevel is up.With wood that tears out easily, I have a lot of difficulty with the low angle actually tugging out loose fibers if they are soft at all. I am not the most experienced. I have done as HHH mentioned with a back bevel on a #4. Maybe it was in my mind but I think the low angle micro was easier to accomplish. Edited September 29, 2015 by C Shaffer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 I thought that's what a low angle plane was for, to tackle difficult wood. Now I'm confussed, but that happens often.Planes are glorified chisels Ken! When you push your chisels bevel up (as in a low angle plane) you are doing serious damage to the wood, but when you push them bevel down (as in standard angle planes), you're mostly pairing. Difficult woods are so because the grain changes direction all the time, seems to come from above sometimes, makes you feel like you hit a rock while planing. For those woods, bevel down planes present a lower risk of tear out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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