rodger. Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 It is assumed that any decent quality rip blade with leave a flat bottom kerf? I have a zillion picture frames to make with splines, and should prob get a designated blade for doing so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Ask Mel, wings are better:-) Not all rip tooth profiles leave perfectly flat bottoms. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krtwood Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 No, my Freud rip blades are sort of flat but with the corners nipped off. Forrest makes a version of the WWII with a raker that leaves a flat bottom but I usually just use a dado blade for that purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Ask Mel, wings are better:-) Not all rip tooth profiles leave perfectly flat bottoms. I will never live this down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I'd just use one of the side cutters from a stacked dado set. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I use this blade FTG grind http://www.amazon.com/DELTA-35-611-10-Inch-Ripping-8-Inch/dp/B0000223E9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Forrest makes a WWII combination blade with a #1 grind for joinery and other operations where a flat bottom is desirable. Item #WW10401125 on the Forrest site. Order two and send me one, will ya? I've been wanting one of these for years...but I've just been using my rip blade in the meantime...no good for cross-grain cuts, though (but acceptable for splines). It ain't cheap... https://www.forrestblades.com/woodworker_2.htm#custom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I have a thin kerf blade that is essential ATB but every third tooth is a ground to produce a flat bottom - it may be similar to the one Eric mentions. It definitely leaves a flat bottom and square sides on the kerf. I've seen them in standard kerf width too. Works fine on cross cut as well as rip cuts. It may be an idea looking for one like that in your locale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I use Freud's LM72R to cut the slots for my splines. Great blade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Here is everything you wanted to know about table saw blade grinds and, much more this is a great read, I laughed I cried http://community.woodmagazine.com/t5/Scott-Spencer/Deciphering-Saw-Blade-Terminology-and-Tooth-Grinds/ba-p/64316 that last part could a load of cr%$# 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 ==>zillion picture frames to make ==>Forrest makes a WWII combination blade with a #1 grind for joinery and other operations where a flat bottom is desirable I've got the Forrest product. Works great. Way better than a rip blade. I suspect you'll have to resharpen somewhere around half a zillion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 this will help with the nomenclature. http://www.tenryu.com/ToothGeometry.pdf for reference I use this blade to cut the slots for splines using a simple jig. http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM72R010-10-Inch-Ripping-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I also use the Freud 72 as my rip blade. In fact, it is my go to blade for all but finished cuts that are worth the effort to change blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Hey Mike, I am not sure that Freud will leave a square bottomed spline slot. I am pretty sure the general purpose 72 tooth blades from Freud are ATB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I'd just use one of the side cutters from a stacked dado set. I think the diameter of the blade (8") is too small for my jig to allow a deep enough kerf/spline mortise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Hey Mike, I am not sure that Freud will leave a square bottomed spline slot. I am pretty sure the general purpose 72 tooth blades from Freud are ATB.That's correct, the 72M (General Purpose) has 40 teeth and it an ATB grind, the 72R has 24 teeth and is a FTG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 If you have a router table you can make a simple jig and use a straight router bit. Might be cheaper than a new blade. Actually, it's probably the same jig you would use on the table saw. A biscuit joiner also can be modified to cut splines quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 If you have a router table you can make a simple jig and use a straight router bit. Might be cheaper than a new blade. Actually, it's probably the same jig you would use on the table saw. A biscuit joiner also can be modified to cut splines quickly. Did something like this with a router table once. You must take extra care to prevent the twist of the bit from pushing your workpiece away from the fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 I thought of using the biscuit cutter, but I was afraid I met get the same issue: holes that are not flat. Plus it meant making another jig (I already have a jig for the TS). I'm not a big fan of doing things on the router table that can be done on the TS. As another example, I would far rather cut rabbets and grooves on the TS rather that on the router table. I decided today that I would just use my thin kerf combo blade, and stop over analyzing. It has worked fine in the past, and I just had it sharpened. Here is a pic of one of the four splines. It's cherry, in a walnut frame. I'll have to post a pic later, the uploaded won't load it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 ==>I'm not a big fan of doing things on the router table that can be done on the TS You know, I feel the same way and not sure exactly why. On the surface of it, there doesn't seem to be a rational preference of one over another -- just more of a 'gut reaction'. I suspect it has something to do with the total amount of experience on one tool over another --- I got a TS years before a router table and use it in the shop at least 10x over the router table. However, it's not an absolute -- there are things I won't do on a TS -- cove molding being an example -- I strongly prefer the router table for coves -- and even more with a power-fed shaper... Might make an interesting thread... Does comfort/experience with a particular tool/technique/etc reinforce itself to the exclusion of 'safer' alternatives... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 I think it's because the router table is a more unpredictable tool. The TS is clearly the more dangerous of the two in terms of mangling capability, but I've been "surprised" more times by the router table than the TS. If you know what you're doing with a TS, you can know with quite a bit of certainty what the results will be as long as you're following the rules, keep concentration and don't do anything stupid. Those little router bits spinning a million miles an hour can catch a chunk of grain in a totally unexpected way and a little bit of poop will fall out of you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 ==>I've been "surprised" more times by the router table than the TS Yes, that's certainly part of it... After the introduction of the riving knife, I'm rarely surprised by the TS anymore... Gone are the days of reaction wood pinching the blade and launching 6' missiles across the room... That's been a big step forward in TS safety... On the other hand, I've been surprised by the router grabbing stock, pulling me toward the cutter and generally scaring the bejesus out of me... Recently, I had a brand new carbide spiral bit snap at the collet, fly across the room and embed it in the side of a bench -- yea, that was fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 ==>I've been "surprised" more times by the router table than the TS Yes, that's certainly part of it... After the introduction of the riving knife, I'm rarely surprised by the TS anymore... Gone are the days of reaction wood pinching the blade and launching 6' missiles across the room... That's been a big step forward in TS safety... On the other hand, I've been surprised by the router grabbing stock, pulling me toward the cutter and generally scaring the bejesus out of me... Recently, I had a brand new carbide spiral bit snap at the collet, fly across the room and embed it in the side of a bench -- yea, that was fun. The more I read about router tables, and I have used one for years, the more I want a shaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Here is the pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Looks good from here, Pug! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.