1400 vs 2200 and FIGHT


socoj2

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1 minute ago, Eric. said:

Considering that would cost you in the neighborhood of 20 thousand dollars, I'll be the first to say...even if you did know...who cares? :)

Side note: an ebony workbench would look ridiculous IMO...no? 

pssh.... I'm sure I'd get a discount at that volume?And yes, it would look stupid :) 

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I have both the Festool 1400 and 2200. They are both excellent routers but have a different use - at least for me.  

For everyday 'standard' routing, the 1400 is hard to beat. For 'heavy duty' routIng (e.g. large diameter flattening bit, etc.) the 2200 is great.  

When I only had 1, it was the 1400. I only recently purchased the 2200 because now I have a use for it.  The 2200 is definitely very large and heavy but that's a big part of why it's so good for the heavy-duty jobs.

Just in case someone is keeping score I also have a PorterCable 3.25 HP mounted in my router table and a couple of the smaller DeWalt 611 trim routers (1 hand-held and 1 as my CNC spindle). 

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I think the predominate opinions given so far are spot on. For an everyday router go with the 1400, for heavy duty routing (think Roubo mortises) I would go with the larger 2200 but only if I already had the 1400. Regarding price in my humble opinion Festool products are expensive but they also work really really well. I'm at a point in my WW progression where I really don't need much so I am willing to spend for something I really want whether that be a new Lie Nielsen plane or a Festool router...I will be getting the 2200 prior to the price increase because I have wanted one for a long time and the only thing crazier than spending $900 on a router would be spending $920 LOL

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3 hours ago, Pwk5017 said:

Wait, two shrouds came with your machine or you bought a second? And one of these dust shrouds is enlarged direct from Festool, or you altered it? I discussed this a few times on FOG, and it is dumb as hell. Im not even going to look up the price of a second dust shroud to alter, because i know it's going to be $25-40. 

 

I hated the grip the day i took it out of the systainer. I bashed it in a thread here, but everyone told me to give it a chance. I gave it a chance and it still sucks. Stick with the 1617 or 2200 grip across all models. It simply works. The asymmetrical base on the 1400 ticks me off too. 

 

Forgot to mention the bit change is pretty slick on the festool routers. Also, this discussion is making me consider selling my 1400 to the OP and getting a 2200. 

How much you want for it. One just poped up on craigslist here for $400.

 

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4 hours ago, Eric. said:

Considering that would cost you in the neighborhood of 20 thousand dollars, I'll be the first to say...even if you did know...who cares? :)

Side note: an ebony workbench would look ridiculous IMO...no? 

 

I saw a guy selling a full ebony 19' canoe on Etsy for the low low price of $150k.  That said his canoes start in the 50K range.  I assume he actually sells some since he has a lot of different ones for sale.  I live on the water and have all manner of boats but $150k buys a Porsche 911 Turbo or 27' Chapparal cruiser, unless this guy is the Sam Maloof of canoes it seems as nuts as some people think Festool is... even if it is solid ebony.

4 hours ago, Pwk5017 said:

Wait, two shrouds came with your machine or you bought a second? And one of these dust shrouds is enlarged direct from Festool, or you altered it? I discussed this a few times on FOG, and it is dumb as hell. Im not even going to look up the price of a second dust shroud to alter, because i know it's going to be $25-40. 

Forgot to mention the bit change is pretty slick on the festool routers. 

4

I bought a second one and it spent a few minutes on the OSS.  I didn't look up the exact price but I think it was 12 or 13 bucks, pretty much in line with the Bosch ones I have bought IIRC.  

 

The ratchet collet is only on the 1400 and 2200.  

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11 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

My only Festool router is the MFK 700 trim router. One day I will look at both of those Festool routers. I'm hoping they have the micro height adjust like the trim router does. 

 

They all have the same 1/10mm ~1/256" height adjustment.  The edge guides have the same adjustment either built in or as an add on to the guide for the 1010, the rail guide stop is included with the 1010 but needs the fine adjuster if you want it, the 1400 and 2200 guide stops are not included with the routers but have the fine adjustment built in.  

7 minutes ago, Llama said:

Well if I buy the castle, I can't get the ebony... ;)

 

 

Just buy a castle made from ebony...

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I say skip the OF 2200 unless you regularly need to hog out lots of material quickly, pick up the OF 1400 AND the OF 1010 and all the fixins and you'll probably be glad you did! Ive got the 1400 and 1010 and find they compliment each other very well. But then I never need the power of the 2200.

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Whiteside makes great bits.  I try and stay with 1/2" shank because it's stronger and I don't have to change the collet.

They also make bits specifically for plywood.  The issue is that plywood is so inconsistent that you rarely get a perfect fit but, it's better than running a standard 1/2" or 3/4" bit for ply.

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Guest Randy

If this is the first router you will own, then the 1400 is the choice between the two you asked about. The 2200 is a larger router. I don't own one, but have used one in a Festool class. I just don't have any use for a handheld router that large and to mount it under the table would be a crime for a router that smooth and well-made.

I own other routers besides the 1400 and there is no better router made. DeWalt, Porter Cable, Triton, Bosch, Milwauke, all great routers, but there are 3 features which make the 1400 worth it when compared to others-

1. Dust collection is the best I've ever seen on a router. I would imagine that is true whether you use it with Festool vac or another brand.

2. The marks on the base which pinpoint the exact center of the router bit. This allows the user to line any of these marks up with the center of a dado rather than spending time trying to find the exact edge of the bit. I know of no other router that has this.

3. The router has accessories which allow it to be used with a guide rail on the MFT. This, combined with the bit center markings allows easy dadoing or any other routing which must be done at exactly a particular point and square to the edges. While this can be accomplished by making jigs, the 1400 does it perfectly.

Don't know if this helps or merely will subject me to abuse. I own Festools and would agree that some may not be worth the extra price when compared to other brands but, with routers, at least, they are worth it. 

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14 hours ago, TIODS said:

Whiteside makes great bits.  I try and stay with 1/2" shank because it's stronger and I don't have to change the collet.

They also make bits specifically for plywood.  The issue is that plywood is so inconsistent that you rarely get a perfect fit but, it's better than running a standard 1/2" or 3/4" bit for ply.

So im ordering some spiral bits, down cut and up cut, will plan on making 2 passes., whee this is going to be fun. i love new tools.

Granted i did have an older skill Router that was like 2 horse power, i just rarely used it, because well NO dust collection, and well it sucked.

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15 hours ago, socoj2 said:

Any suggestions on bits for routing Dados and rabits in plywood?

Get the thing for the track, and get the edge guide... (yeah yeah, these things cost more money...)

I use Whiteside or CMT, and have no issues with either. For some reason router bits haven't been struck with my insane OCD where everything must match. I only use 1/2" shank bits in a router that accepts 1/2", and 1/4" goes in my trim router. 

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