I'm building a shop!


Robert Morse

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1 minute ago, Chestnut said:

@Robert Morse I've always wondered why more people don't run ducting in the floor. I will cation you against that hard 90 at the end  2 45s will offer more efficiency.  So much so it's worth the cost of space and length and material cost. 

That's probably sage advice - I did get 2 45's on the middle drop.  I'll need to check and see if that would require an even deeper trench, or necessitate moving the holes further away from the wall - I've got some measurement constraints I'm working thru, and I also wanted to be careful about thinning the slab around where the pipes penetrate.  

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2 minutes ago, C Shaffer said:

Except that a single radius outperforms two 45 in flow performance. If the was gravity sewage or pressured water I might not care. For dust flow I care. 

interesting - so something like these? https://smile.amazon.com/Canplas-414166BC-Bend-Long-Turn/dp/B00CDT16QS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1514852111&sr=8-6&keywords=6"+sewer+elbow

 

1 minute ago, wdwerker said:

Conduit, oversized with an extra pull string , at least that's what I would do.  

Yep - that's the plan, likely with 2 boxes: one with 120v and another with 220v. I'm still researching floor boxes, covers and receptacles. At the old house, I did twist locks for my 220v tools, but they're kind of a pain. 

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5 minutes ago, Robert Morse said:

That's probably sage advice - I did get 2 45's on the middle drop.  I'll need to check and see if that would require an even deeper trench, or necessitate moving the holes further away from the wall - I've got some measurement constraints I'm working thru, and I also wanted to be careful about thinning the slab around where the pipes penetrate.  

It shouldn't need to be deeper but if the drop is near the wall the concrete will be weaker around it either way. For the slab if your not reinforcing I'd put a rebar mesh over the pipe.

3 minutes ago, C Shaffer said:

Except that a single radius outperforms two 45 in flow performance. If the was gravity sewage or pressured water I might not care. For dust flow I care. 

Yeah i get that but it's probably something that would be special order directly from a supplier or a custom order. Something tells me that's not feasible.

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4 minutes ago, Robert Morse said:

They look more like this

P304-030-2.jpg?1389286245

But i can only find them in schedule 40 whic is NOT the same as sdr 35. You have SDR35 and i have not be able to find long radius 90s for it. I tried when i did my system. If you find them they are going to be expensive and special order. SDR35 is typically installed manhole to manhole and doesn't usually have bends installed. SDR35 is the right choice for what you are doing it's more flexible than sch40 which makes it more durable.

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5 minutes ago, C Shaffer said:

I would bet every fitting shown is sch 40...for the very reason you stated...and because it is common in downspout piping. The fittings were always sch 40. 

sch40 and SDR35 are NOT the same size I've learned that painfully first hand. The pipe wall is thicker for sch40. SDR35 the pipe wall is a standard dimension ratio with that ratio being 35 so the wall is diameter divided by 35 or .1714"

SCH40 OD is 6.625"

SDR35 OD is 6.25"

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2 hours ago, wdwerker said:

Conduit, oversized with an extra pull string , at least that's what I would do.  

I agree, learned from experience. Later, when I built my wife’s crafts building, I ran an extra underground pvc conduit with a stainless steel cable in it as a pull string. I hope to never use it but maybe the next generation will. 

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For what its worth, you CAN bend pvc to any radius you like, if you have a reasonable heat source. For pipe up to 3", I've seen a kerosene space heater used (the radiant type). 4" or bigger might require more oomph, like a salamander. We've done 12" pvc conduit at work, using a hot oil bath to soften the pipe. If you ever try this, first fill the pipe with sand to prevent it from collapsing as it bends.

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6 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

For what its worth, you CAN bend pvc to any radius you like, if you have a reasonable heat source. For pipe up to 3", I've seen a kerosene space heater used (the radiant type). 4" or bigger might require more oomph, like a salamander. We've done 12" pvc conduit at work, using a hot oil bath to soften the pipe. If you ever try this, first fill the pipe with sand to prevent it from collapsing as it bends.

If you do use a kerosene heater to heat an bend it to the shape you need. Always keep it spinning while you heating it to keep from burning it an do it in sections little at a time. Oh an dripping wet rag or towel once you get it to the right shape to cool it back to rigidity 

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The past week has been crazy. I'm at work, so I'll get some pictures updated later tonight.  

  • Trench for electrical completed
  • Trench for dust collection completed
  • Electric run from house to shop
  • Panel is installed
  • Exterior lights, and one interior light, one interior outlet and one exterior outlet installed (No more extension cords from the house!)
  • Dust collection pipes cut, and re-glued with two 45's on each end rather than 90's
  • dust collection pipe set, and trench filled in
  • floor boxes for power set, and conduit ran in sand bed just below bottom level of slab

They're scheduled to pour the slab on Wednesday, and then the garage door on Friday this week. 

We had to dig down the dust trench about 3" - wow was that a lot of work. In addition to all the dirt from the trench, I also had 2 wheelbarrow loads FULL of rocks.  We finished covering and leveling 95% of the floor last night at 6pm.  There's probably one wheelbarrow full of dirt/gravel I'll need to remove in order to finish leveling the floor at the finished height. My leveling laser is getting a workout! We're going to finish leveling this evening, and that will be the last time-sensitive step where we have to finish something before work can be completed.

The electrician came back yesterday, the exterior motion lights were only coming on when the interior lights were on.  Turns out his apprentice mis-wired 2 of the breakers and also did something creative in the switch box. All solved now, and the circuits are temporary - they'll be re-breakered and re-switched when the interior walls are studded out. 

We're also supposed to get our cover inspection done today, so we can get the trench filled in. The kids love pushing the dirt around, and carrying rocks to their new "Rock Garden".  I'll post some more pictures tonight. 

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Looks like a great place to build and my best for the shop project!  My only comment, this from personal experience, would be the gutters filling with evergreen needles or leaves.  The closest tree to the back of my house is about 50 feet.  But wind takes over and fills my gutters.  Have to clean them at least twice a year.  Don't get the gutter screens, though.  I did and the leaves piled up on them, got wet and pulled the guttering from the house. 

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If you haven't filled in the trench from the house to the shop, I always stick in a length of black polyethylene  pipe, with a string sucked through it with a shop vac.  Years ago, when I built our barn, I forgot a 3-wayed switch circuit, so I could turn the barn lights on from the house.  The pipe came in good that time.

We have done hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of repairs to houses that had damage caused by gutter guards, over the years.  On our own house, I left the downslope ends of the gutters open, with no ends on them.  Underneath, on the ground,  is a large rock that splashes the water away from the house.  I never have to clean our gutters.

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32 minutes ago, Bankstick said:

Looks like a great place to build and my best for the shop project!  My only comment, this from personal experience, would be the gutters filling with evergreen needles or leaves.  The closest tree to the back of my house is about 50 feet.  But wind takes over and fills my gutters.  Have to clean them at least twice a year.  Don't get the gutter screens, though.  I did and the leaves piled up on them, got wet and pulled the guttering from the house. 

Yep, as beautiful as they are, the trees are a PAIN. Our house the gutters with the integrated guard (the round metal one, Leaf Guard?).  Those seem to work really well, and the gutters stay mostly clear.  If the rain really dumps down (like torrential downpour), sometimes there's enough water that it will cascade over the side of the gutter. That only happens a couple of times a year, and even then it's only for a few minutes.  I'm going to check into something similar for the shop once I catch my breath from the past couple of weeks.  

 

31 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Exciting! good thing you changed to the 45s you won't regret it. Well i guess you'll probably never know the different but trust me it was a good decision.

It was a good tip, thanks Drew.  My shoulders, hands and back may not like it right now, but it was the right call. SO MANY ROCKS in our soil. Or so little soil in our rocks... one or the other. :) 

 

27 minutes ago, Tom King said:

If you haven't filled in the trench from the house to the shop, I always stick in a length of black polyethylene  pipe, with a string sucked through it with a shop vac.  Years ago, when I built our barn, I forgot a 3-wayed switch circuit, so I could turn the barn lights on from the house.  The pipe came in good that time.

We have done hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of repairs to houses that had damage caused by gutter guards, over the years.  On our own house, I left the downslope ends of the gutters open, with no ends on them.  Underneath, on the ground,  is a large rock that splashes the water away from the house.  I never have to clean our gutters.

Yep, I'm going to pick up a roll today of polyethylene on my way home and bury it, just in case.  On the gutter guards, what kind of repairs have you been doing? As near as I can tell, our house hasn't had any damage/issues with them, and they've were up there long before we bought the house a couple of years ago. 

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Can't recall the brand name but I recall seeing an ad for a system that looks like an open mini blind and spreads out the roof drainage.   It supposedly breaks up the flow so it lands like a gentle rain without the erosion around the house.  Might not be good if your basement or crawl space leaks.

Tom King, had to replace some wood around the gutters several years ago.

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You know those pictures I promised 2 days ago? Well, better late than never... You can't see it in the pictures but there's green flakes of PVC pipe everywhere in the shop. That stuff sticks to anything. 

Gutters went in as a single piece last week... those guys were only here for about 30 minutes, and their set up was pretty sweet. Eventually, I want to put in a couple of rain barrels on each downspout so we can have some water for landscaping in the summer. 20180104_180327694_iOS.thumb.jpg.34ef692c13a8d50aaffda5280fd7cdee.jpg20180104_182235525_iOS.thumb.jpg.7388b1b7eae7b61fb037b4bc09415893.jpg

I spent the weekend digging out the trench... I had asked for 16" depth, they dug it to 15" or so, and I REALLY needed 18-19" deep.  So out came the shovel, and the swear words. I bought a trenching shovel with a 4" wide head, and it was the right tool for the job.  

 

20180107_203640065_iOS.thumb.jpg.a9829ed6b1daa2900ce37aac69d29d0b.jpg

 

There were rocks. SO MANY FREAKING ROCKS. That's one of 4 wheelbarrow fulls we ended up hauling out.

20180107_222132316_iOS.thumb.jpg.2180682afcd60d110303b73cee91c921.jpg

 

And the 94% humidity certainly didn't help either.  But we're done with that now, and the concrete is being poured today.  I'll have some pictures again later this afternoon.  Oh, and if anyone wants any rocks, let me know. 

 

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19 minutes ago, Robert Morse said:

You know those pictures I promised 2 days ago? Well, better late than never... You can't see it in the pictures but there's green flakes of PVC pipe everywhere in the shop. That stuff sticks to anything. 

Gutters went in as a single piece last week... those guys were only here for about 30 minutes, and their set up was pretty sweet. Eventually, I want to put in a couple of rain barrels on each downspout so we can have some water for landscaping in the summer.

I spent the weekend digging out the trench... I had asked for 16" depth, they dug it to 15" or so, and I REALLY needed 18-19" deep.  So out came the shovel, and the swear words. I bought a trenching shovel with a 4" wide head, and it was the right tool for the job. 

There were rocks. SO MANY FREAKING ROCKS. That's one of 4 wheelbarrow fulls we ended up hauling out.

And the 94% humidity certainly didn't help either.  But we're done with that now, and the concrete is being poured today.  I'll have some pictures again later this afternoon.  Oh, and if anyone wants any rocks, let me know. 

 

The green stuff from cutting that PVC is horrible i just did some modifications to my system last night. Did you glue the PVC together? Was that just regular duct tape that you used on the joints?

I'll take some rocks but beings that i'm doing you a favor you have to deliver them. :D You should be able to find a place that will take them for free if you can't find a use for them. I know the landfills or some construction companies take rock and end up using them in various places.

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