What did you do today?

[Coop]

Is the PEX out of the question for that run? 

[Tom King]

Use a solder on elbow with flange and screw holes.  Feed it up from the bottom.  The hole up there can be elongated enough to run the screws in and still be under the escutcheon.  Been there, done that.  I wouldn't even mind using CPVC for the riser.    Just don't use a plastic female threaded adapter for anything.  Solder a female copper threaded adapter close above the valve base. Pex would work too, but might be tight to crimp a ring in there.

There's always a way to do it.

[legenddc]

First of all, a massive thank you Tom for all of your guidance and encouragement. Without it, I definitely would not have been successful. If we ever meet, I owe you at least a dinner.

I ended up being able to get to everything without cutting the tile, so I have a Dremel and accessories to return. My hands are scraped up but I'll survive. Getting one screw of each bracket out through the hole was difficult. I was able to get one out of each bracket and pushed the brackets out of the way.

I looked last night and I can feed the pipe up through the shower valve, possibly even with the proper elbow attached. I'll try to keep any drywall cutting to under the extrusion so I don't have to repair any drywall. Current elbow seems to be nailed in so prying it off could be interesting.

Also on today's agenda, in-between work and a Home Depot run, is to install a new recessed ceiling light in our kitchen and remove the hidden junction box that I discovered.

Drywall guy comes tomorrow to give an estimate. He's done a lot of work for my parents and always does a great job. Between a work trip and vacation I'll be gone for almost two weeks.

[Tom King]

Sometimes I've used these to grab a small cats paw nail puller in a hole that was too small to get the Visegrips into.  The slide hammer kit comes with different types of hooks that can be used once a nail is pulled out enough to get the hook under.  I have a slide hammer kit with all sorts of ends, and bought a separate adapter for Visegrips.

https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Adjustable-Vanadium-Hardware-Construction/dp/B08NF7VTPD/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1J2LK424WDSHY&keywords=slide+hammer+vise+grips&qid=1687358152&sprefix=slide+hammer+vise+grips%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-3

There is always a way to do something, but sometimes you need an arsenal of oddball tools on hand.

https://www.amazon.com/Disston-E0215000-RemGrit-Hole-Accessories/dp/B00ESWJU5W/ref=pd_bxgy_vft_none_sccl_2/138-7493386-2594623?pd_rd_w=Cgi1V&content-id=amzn1.sym.26a5c67f-1a30-486b-bb90-b523ad38d5a0&pf_rd_p=26a5c67f-1a30-486b-bb90-b523ad38d5a0&pf_rd_r=S4H3E47G1SYT4EHGCSW9&pd_rd_wg=V5Yrj&pd_rd_r=d29f531a-bf12-41e8-827b-069d56b2ebf5&pd_rd_i=B00ESWJU5W&psc=1

Plenty of no can needed LED's now.

https://www.amazon.com/Lithonia-Lighting-WF4-30K40K50K-90CRI/dp/B07M8P79TB/ref=asc_df_B07M8P79TB/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309781175456&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11095887687159192713&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009793&hvtargid=pla-608499318415&ref=&adgrpid=60862048999&th=1

 

 

 

[Chestnut]

I still like the old style cans with the lamp socket. I've had so many LEDs need replacement. It's nice that it's a simple switch instead of chasing parts. Or is replacing the can less lights easy? They all seem like they have some proprietary plug. Or when they fail you have to get back up and rewire the junction box.

Am i alone on this?

[Tom King]

For most new construction I would still use a can.  For putting in an existing ceiling where access if questionable, I'd use the ones that just snap into the hole.  I would stick to known brand names, and buy extras for backups to start with.  I would also stay away from ones that take some unusually large hole size, like 6-3/8's.

[legenddc]

On 6/21/2023 at 11:04 AM, Chestnut said:

I still like the old style cans with the lamp socket. I've had so many LEDs need replacement. It's nice that it's a simple switch instead of chasing parts. Or is replacing the can less lights easy? They all seem like they have some proprietary plug. Or when they fail you have to get back up and rewire the junction box.

Am i alone on this?

I'll be replacing it with a traditional can light to match the other 2 in the kitchen and 5 in the dining room. I'm with you, had too many LED's fail. I don't want to have to redo 8 lights because one died and the new one doesn't match the color. I don't want to stock extras either. Much simpler to screw in a light bulb.

The drywall is cut out where the light is so in that sense it shouldn't be too hard. I'm not sure how the heck it was wired. There's an extra wire from the (hidden) junction box to the light I removed. The black cable on the extra cable was just wrapped in electrical tape inside the light. Explains why our light switch doesn't work since I temporarily attached all three cables together.

If I don't have enough slack to remove the junction box we may just end up with an extra, randomly placed recessed light in the kitchen.

[Mark J]

1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

I still like the old style cans with the lamp socket. I've had so many LEDs need replacement. It's nice that it's a simple switch instead of chasing parts. Or is replacing the can less lights easy? They all seem like they have some proprietary plug. Or when they fail you have to get back up and rewire the junction box.

Am i alone on this?

+1

[Tpt life]

Cheap can-less tend to direct wire, and lever lock Wagos make that a simple swap. I still prefer bulbs most places, but most places aren’t worth a retrofit to that extent. It’s all going to depend on your usage. 

[legenddc]

And we have a working shower again. I ended up having to cut the drywall above the shower arm. After an hour of messing with it I hadn’t gotten the nails to move at all.
 

Whatever lazy person installed these bathrooms decided to just use a 3” nail to hold in the elbow. To a 2x4. Turned sideways. So there was at least 1.5” hammered down on the other side of the 2x4. 
 

Since drywall was cut I raised the shower head about an inch. Hopefully I no longer hit my head. 
 

Electric will just have to wait another day. 

[Chestnut]

I figured out one big plus on those can-less lights as well after I posted. They are easy and most people don't live in their house for a long period of time. National average is something like 5-7 years. So let the next guy deal with it.

[legenddc]

Nice taking a shower this morning without hitting my head on the shower head. Not a bad consolation prize for having to cut open the drywall. Slight drip from the shower arm to elbow connection. I think the brand new shower arm wasn't threaded well. When I do my returns I'll pick up another new one to see if it's fixed. Tried installing it a couple of times (with tape) but can't get it to stop.

On 6/22/2023 at 8:34 AM, Chestnut said:

I figured out one big plus on those can-less lights as well after I posted. They are easy and most people don't live in their house for a long period of time. National average is something like 5-7 years. So let the next guy deal with it.

We just hit 11 years last week and I think we have at least a few more left here.

 

[Tom King]

How many wraps of tape?  Might just take more.  Chinese threads are not the best.

While you're there, you might pick up some pipe dope (more properly called pipe thread sealant).

I have had to layer dope, tape, and dope  to get such a Chinese plumbing part to not leak.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/RectorSeal-No-5-Pipe-Thread-Sealant-4-fl-oz-Sealant/5002633545?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5002633545-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4s-kBhDqARIsAN-ipH2sjUt1u3d6v89c-ETRMsvj1VvOH1zvny2hRAZ3nmi8ILGgL_h20h4aAsJsEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Probably not the right size, but maybe the right idea.

https://www.amazon.com/Reliable-White-Cover-Assembly-Degree/dp/B076P5K52J/ref=asc_df_B076P5K52J/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241986369569&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7792422088266427973&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009786&hvtargid=pla-450420076979&psc=1

[legenddc]

First time I followed the directions and did 3 wraps. Second time I think I did 5 or 6.

Are you suggesting that cover for the drywall hole or the hidden junction box?

[Chestnut]

Bought a new grill. It wasn't super heavy but instead of risking injury I unloaded it the smart way. I have a hook in my rafter for skinning deer, figured the pulley system for lifting the deer would be perfect for the grill.

Once the weight was out of the bed I just drove away.

The pulley system has a catch like mini blinds that allow it to be lowered easily. Then it was assembly time.

[Tom King]

I was thinking a cover for the old shower neck hole, if it was in the tile.

[legenddc]

Chestnut - Nice looking grill and a smart way to save your back!

Tom - Thankfully the shower arm comes out just above the tile so the hole is in drywall. Just found a perfect color match from Home Depot right off the shelf. 

[Tom King]

That's a relief.  I was hoping you could avoid having to get into tile matching.

Some people call that using mechanical advantage with multi-purchase block and tackle systems.  I call it using your brain.

[Mark J]

Although I've hoisted loads like that from joists/rafters myself, I have been told that rafters (and joists) are not engineered for that kind of point loading and could fail.  Opinions?

[legenddc]

I would have kept trying to get out the nails if I was going to have to cut the tile. To go through all the effort of not and having to for the arm would have been upsetting. Dope, tape and dope seems to have solved the drip but I won't know for sure until we shower tomorrow. I've wasted enough water this week.

[Chestnut]

15 hours ago, Mark J said:

Although I've hoisted loads like that from joists/rafters myself, I have been told that rafters (and joists) are not engineered for that kind of point loading and could fail.  Opinions?

All rafters are rated for some sort of what is called a live load. A live load is the moving load that is typically of someone walking or moving something heavy etc. The live load rating for rafters to my knowledge is at least 10-20 PSF (pounds per square foot). for rafters 24" on spacing the lower tie of the rafter would need to be able to support worst case 10 lbs times it's length times it's spacing of 2 feet (10*22*2=440) mind you that's a distributed load not a point load.

There is also a safety factor applied to this number as well as a safety factor built into the lumber grading. In hindsight i was pretty close to this worst case, I've hung far more weight from my rafters. I want to say my rafters had the load rating stamped on them but i can't find a picture of it.

[Mark J]

When I've done it the attachment point has spanned two or three rafters/joists.  Maybe that's better?

[Chestnut]

35 minutes ago, Mark J said:

When I've done it the attachment point has spanned two or three rafters/joists.  Maybe that's better?

Yes much better the strength does add up. I should note that joists are significantly different than rafters. Anything that is floor rated is designed to a 40 PSF live load and i think a 20 psf dead load maybe it was 40 psf I can't remember. I don't practice structures.

[Immortan D]

Working on the finish (shellac) of the frame I made for my daughter:

[pkinneb]

Hit the road for Greg Pennington's Windsor Chair school to make continuous arm rocker, take two 

Stopped and had dinner with our daughter and SIL, in Chicago, and tomorrow spending some time in Nashville.