What did you do today?

[Tom King]

We have the 25 foot long drill bit fabricated.  If it doesn't tie itself in a knot, it should work.

 

[Ronn W]

Furnace heat exchanger diagnosed with tiny holes about 2 years ago.  Worse the following year and worser still now.  Figured we have pushed it about as far as we dare.  New furnace and t-stat being installed today.  Aaargh!

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

On 12/11/2023 at 1:13 PM, Ronn W said:

Furnace heat exchanger diagnosed with tiny holes about 2 years ago.  Worse the following year and worser still now.  Figured we have pushed it about as far as we dare.  New furnace and t-stat being installed today.  Aaargh!

But think of how nice it will be in mid January! 

[legenddc]

Temporarily setup some dust right ports. Hoping if I can keep the Rockler stretchy hose elevated it won’t tilt the sander down every time I use it. 

[Chestnut]

So one of the drywall tricks that was taught me on here was to use a PVA drywall primer after the first coat or 2nd coat of mud. I think it was Tom that told me that. I've found it very helpful. After i get the joint smoothed up and I'm somewhat happy with the results and it's just touch ups left, I prime the whole area. This helps with sanding and smoothing. The primer is a bit harder to sand or smooth through so it helps me from chasing my tail when you sand a bit too far.

The primer also adds contrast when trying to see areas that need attention. Often the mid grey of drywall compound can mask shadows and make it really hard to get a really smooth finish. I used way more hot mud on this one that i expected. I did 2 full coats with it and only used regular compound for the final coat.

Following the final coat of mud I re-prime all surfaces. The drywall joint compound can act like a sponge and suck up paint in an undesirable manner. It also can have a sheen or texture difference that the primer is designed to get rid of. You can see my 5 gallon pail, i use a lot of it. i think that was pail #3 after doing my garage.

As a side note the primer doesn't flow out like regular paint. This is beneficial for me as my entire house wall texture can be described as 1/2" nap roller texture. The walls aren't level 5 sanded smooth and have a slight texture that is easy to match with a 1/2" nap roller and drywall primer.

With the walls done it was time to match the popcorn texture. I bought a box of this. The main thing to note with popcorn texture and hopper guns is the texture that you spray needs to be loose enough to flow through the hopper gun. if you mix it too thick it's hard to get out of the hopper, don't ask me how i know. It's easier to get too lose of material out and remix it to a thicker consistency.

My hopper gun shoots best around 25-30 PSI, i set my compressor regulator there. With popcorn texture the consistency of the mix isn't as crucial as a knockdown texture. There is also a needle adjustment on the back. It's all just trial and error with a scrap piece of drywall to get the effect your after. Keep a note that the wet compound and wet texture can look a bit different when it dries. It also looks different when covered with paint and there is a lot more flexability than you might imagine. Below is our entry from a "20 foot view".

The texture blends pretty well. Looking closer it's not a perfect match though. It's possible to see the density difference but also the texture is a bit more coarse than the existing. Rest assured no one is going to be on a stepladder critiquing your ceiling texture. If they are in my case the door is very close to point at.

On 12/8/2023 at 6:13 PM, Coop said:

Probably too late now but I like to use one of the big flat orange dampened  sponges instead of sanding, especially if you have feathered the edges. 

I never got good at the sponge trick. It's been suggested multiple times to me. I can never get it as smooth as a sender does and i still have yet to live in a house with anything other than smooth walls. I wouldn't call them level 5 but they defiantly don't have texture applied. Using my ETS 150, and 180 grit paper sanding is fast and dust free. There are some spots that require hand sanding but that's ok.

[legenddc]

As of last Friday at noon I'm done for the year with work. Went to my wife's holiday party this weekend and got some gifts wrapped. Also knocked out a bandsaw reindeer. Will have to post the picture later.

[gee-dub]

Added a shop made spacer to a stock I'm trying out.

Funny how we use the skills we have to address non-woodworking problems.

 

[Chestnut]

After getting more ceiling paint, I was able to get the ceiling pained ad also get the walls painted. The whole time i was cutting the edge between the wall and ceiling i was wondering how people typically handle that edge? I am one of the few people I know that never tape anything, all my paint edge cutting is done freehand. Mostly because it takes me less time to cut free hand than it takes to place the blue painters tape.

Now we're just left with an odd jut out and a hole cut in the drywall that I'll fill with a built in some day hopefully soon. After everything got painted the fact that a wall was there was only evident from the joints in the floor. So to tackle that. First step is to fill in the sub floor that was installed under the laminate. For this I used butternut. I felt like I needed to use a wood that would be buttery smooth but  also toe the proper balance of strength to weight ratio that matches the existing plywood sub floor.

The laminate piece on the right ties into a larger floor and is too hard to remove to properly fix the joint. So as a result I took my bevel gauge and measured the awful cut who ever installed this floor did. I then transferred the angle to my table saw miter gauge and made the matching cut.

Whom ever hacked this together was making the cuts free hand. This edge was not strait and bowed out. Looking closely this isn't great but from standing height it doesn't look bad.  Visible but not bad.

We can make that MUCH better though. This elmers wood filler in golden oak is a great match for this color of flooring. I took a bit of the filler and worked it into the crack and BAM it disappears. This filler will probably get lifted out so after letting it dry I just hit it with a few light coats of wiping poly. The floor finish is so smooth the excess wipes off easy and leaves no trace.

This is how I fixed a different hole elsewhere in our house. This fix was MUCH more seamless though.

[Chet]

On 12/20/2023 at 9:38 AM, Chestnut said:

The whole time i was cutting the edge between the wall and ceiling i was wondering how people typically handle that edge?

This was recommended to me by a Pro a number of years ago.  SHUR-LINE Edge Painter   He doesn't use it but in his mind is the best of the bunch for amateurs like myself.  I have been extremely happy with the results I get

[Tom King]

The brush is important.  I use a 2-1//2" angled brush.  I forget which one exactly.  I have their uses marked on each brush and use a number of different ones for different purposes.  Probably a Wooster.  edited to add:  I like the stiffer ones for cutting in an edge.  I may go back over that part with a soft one that smoothes it out better.  I believe this is my favorite cutting in brush:

https://www.amazon.com/WOOSTER-4424-2-Brush-Synthetic-Stainless/dp/B01FRH1N7O/ref=sr_1_12?crid=12R1COW3KOXSN&keywords=wooster%2B2%2B1%2F2%2Binch%2Bangle%2Bbrush&qid=1703103319&sprefix=2-1%2F2"%2Bwooster%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-12&th=1

The only place I use tape is on top of baseboards.  I caulk the clean line 3M tape with cheap clear latex caulk, paint over it while it's still wet, and pull the tape off while it's still wet.  That leaves a perfect line and I don't have to cut in by bending over or crawling on my knees.  Google "caulking masking tape" and there should be videos.  It's really pretty fast once you get used to it.

I don't use Frog tape but the 3m equivalent.  With paint alone neither will leave a perfectly clean line.  The caulking seals the fairy crystals in the tape and leaves a perfect line.  I cut in ceiling and casing, but do this on top of baseboards. 

skip to about 7:30 in this video:

 

[pkinneb]

On 12/20/2023 at 11:38 AM, Chestnut said:

...The whole time i was cutting the edge between the wall and ceiling i was wondering how people typically handle that edge? I am one of the few people I know that never tape anything, all my paint edge cutting is done freehand. Mostly because it takes me less time to cut free hand than it takes to place the blue painters tape...

In my younger days I cut in free hand with an angled brush these days I write a check

I hate painting LOL 

[gee-dub]

Realized that I needed to make a lumber run tomorrow for some cherry. Hope it doesn’t rain on me.

[Chestnut]

18 hours ago, Chet said:

This was recommended to me by a Pro a number of years ago.  SHUR-LINE Edge Painter   He doesn't use it but in his mind is the best of the bunch for amateurs like myself.  I have been extremely happy with the results I get

I must have tried lesser versions of those in the past they worked ok for a while but then went sideways fast.

11 hours ago, pkinneb said:

In my younger days I cut in free hand with an angled brush these days I write a check

I hate painting LOL 

This was discussed. I also detest painting. Yes I'd rather do drywall work than painting.

[wtnhighlander]

Painting ranks just below plumbing on my list of least favorite DIY tasks. I do generally cut in without masking, using a 2" angled brush. With advancing age, however, I find that obscured close-vision and less than rock-steady nerves are making the masking tips in this thread very attractive. With @pkinneb's solution being the most attractive of all! 

[Tom King]

Pam and her Sister painted the laundry room in the rental house after I redid the plumbing to work for the washing machine.  I cut in the casing and the wall top because they were taking forever. 

I showed them how to caulk the tape on the baseboard.  They did it and were amazed at how fast, easy, and perfect it was.  I showed them how to roll the tape against the wall to keep it straight on the baseboard.  They were able to do it but they had to get on their knees and it took a while.   

SIL had paid pros to paint their downstairs in their house not too long ago.  She said they caulked and painted the baseboards after everything else had been painted and it didn't come out as perfectly.  She said if she'd known how to do this that they could have saved themselves $1500 for a couple of afternoons of work.  Their downstairs is one small bedroom, one bathroom, and a small hallway.

When I was building new spec houses I doubt I could have built my houses as quickly if I waited for people to come do stuff.  I got better at all of it, and better equipped constantly over those 33 years.

[legenddc]

I cut in by hand. We've used that little roller thingy with good results but that requires advance planning. The last paint I used for our accent wall was way too cheap and ran like water. I eventually gave up and just repainted the top of the baseboard.

Hanging out with the kids today. My son still has a fever so no Air and Space museum for us today. Brought out the old Nintendo Wii. They're loving it so far. We've bowled, played tennis, golf and back to bowling again.

My wife is working upstairs and didn't know what all the shouting was about.

[pkinneb]

On 12/21/2023 at 9:30 AM, legenddc said:

I cut in by hand. We've used that little roller thingy with good results but that requires advance planning. The last paint I used for our accent wall was way too cheap and ran like water. I eventually gave up and just repainted the top of the baseboard.

Hanging out with the kids today. My son still has a fever so no Air and Space museum for us today. Brought out the old Nintendo Wii. They're loving it so far. We've bowled, played tennis, golf and back to bowling again.

My wife is working upstairs and didn't know what all the shouting was about.

Hope he feels better by the holiday! That is one of my favorite museum's to visit. 

[legenddc]

On 12/21/2023 at 10:38 AM, pkinneb said:

Hope he feels better by the holiday! That is one of my favorite museum's to visit. 

Thanks! Which one do you like? I was just at the Udvar-Hazy one for a company party. 

[gee-dub]

I made that lumber run this morning.  For those who like to keep their finger on the pulse . . . S3S, 25/32" $4.79bf today in So Cal.

Not my favorite yard but it is my close one.  Selection can be a bit thin and favor the construction trade.  You only find 8/4 in sparse species and lengths.  They tend to mark even rough material in inches and fractions versus the quarter system my other yard uses.  But, everyone is always happy and very helpful

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

Looks like nice stuff @gee-dub! That's a little less than most retail places here in MN, but it's in the ballpark. 

[pkinneb]

On 12/21/2023 at 11:57 AM, legenddc said:

Thanks! Which one do you like? I was just at the Udvar-Hazy one for a company party. 

Nation of Speed 

[legenddc]

Got a little bacon today…

[Ronn W]

I love how the bookmatched grain flows from drawer to drawer.

[wtnhighlander]

I love how the grain flows from slice to slice ....

mmmmmmm, bacon.

[Von]

Shop organization continues with a place to put my drill and driver.