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new2woodwrk

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Forgot something outside last night and when I went to go get it I noticed our walkway lights weren't on. I guess when they did the insulation in our outdoor storage closet ceiling they messed up the wiring. Really hoping they just hooked it up wrong in the electrical box for the light. Another thing added to the list.

@Coop I'm not a fan of tomato soup. Our friend had us over for dinner and made this and I liked it so much I had seconds.

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Thanks Tom! I was looking at the Y34. Looks like the supply houses around here only carry the 2-5’ bury depths. My grading guy already cut the trenches since he had his equipment out here. At the hydrant end it is about 2’ deep, so I’m thinking I’ll just pick up a Y34-2 and dig a bit by hand if needed. 
I’ll do brass or stainless for the fittings. 
I was originally thinking I would just run 3/4” all the way, but it’s probably better to go ahead and do 1” to the hydrant. 
Is PVC better than the flexible tubing from my the well head to my house? Or Pex? I saw that Pex B can be direct buried and it sure would be nice to just roll out a coil of tubing and not have any joints to do. Not that PVC would take very long.

There is a spigot on top of my well head (there’s a tee straight out of the well cap, one connects to the line heading to my house and the spigot is on the other. I might just tie my line into that (either using the spigot as a shut-off or replacing the spigot with a valve) rather than splicing into the main line heading to the house. We never use the spigot, we have one on the house relatively close to the well head.  Thoughts?

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The 2' bury will work fine.  The freeze depth may be different there than here anyway, especially since no one stocks the one foot bury.  The bury depth is not critical.  They just have different length pipes and it doesn't really matter exactly how much sticks out above ground other than for comfort of use.

I would only use ball valves for cutoffs and not a regular faucet.  

There is some loss in flow from length, so better to go with 1" pipe.  Any fitting smaller than that is a restriction and will slow flow.  The hydrant fittings are 3/4" but that's so close to the end that there is no noticeable restriction.

I put a Y1 at our garden instead of a Y34 and it can flow so much water that our well pump can't keep up.  The Y34 is 3/4".

I think the PEX would be fine.  I have Lots of PVC in the ground here that's 44 years old and has been trouble free.  Black poly is probably okay too, but I just don't like that the fittings go inside the pipe and restrict flow.  Black poly is nowhere near as strong as PVC or Pex. 

PVC will flex a lot, but for sharper turns you just use different fittings.

I have a PVC union at my well head so I can pull the pump if I need to without having to redo piping.  I park the loader over the well head with a pulley on a chain attached to the bucket up in the air over the well and use the truck going backwards so I can see when the pump comes out of the well to pull it.  I have the pump hanging on a stainless steel cable that goes through the block (pulley).  The cable is through that pulley on a chain inside the well cover, ready to go.  I can have the pump out of the well in five minutes including setup.  I get Pam to handle the pipe as it comes out and back in.

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My yard hydrant installation was pretty smooth through 95% of the job. Unfortunately I’m stuck for the moment. I got the Y34 placed, ~100ft of PVC run, but then I tried to remove the spigot from the tee at my well head so I could attach the PVC ball valve and tie into my line to the field. It’s been installed for ~30 years and does not want to budge. I pulled out my 36” pipe wrench to assist, but I’m a bit worried that I’ll snap it off before it unscrews. I don’t have much room to tie into my house supply line without a lot of careful digging, so I’d rather not tap off of that. 

I’m now thinking that in the short term I’ll use a 6-12” piece of 3/4” garden hose to connect my 1” pvc to the spigot. That way I can at least confirm my PVC joints are solid before I fill in the trench. 

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Garden hose threads are different than anything else.  Often labeled as 3/4 WH.  Ace sells a bunch of different adapters in their brass fittings cabinet.  I keep a washing machine hose for emergency hookups as well as various adapters.  The washing machine hose is the only short one I know of with female WH ends on both ends.

What type of pipe is that faucet screwed onto?  Picture would be good.

edited:   Sometimes GHT for garden hose threads instead of WH for water hose.  I see them both ways.  Here's an example of the kind of thing you'll need to hook a hose to PVC

https://www.amazon.com/Sanpaint-Connector-Garden-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B08FSY4DQT/ref=sr_1_2?

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In the real plumbing supply stores here, the parts bins are behind the counter.  No one goes in them that doesn't work there.  You have to ask for what you want.  Any time I leave the box store aisles, they're ever so slightly better than when I got there.

I'd put a nipple in the side outlet of that tee long enough for the union to be outside the diameter of the well cap so it won't interfere whenever the pump needs to be pulled.  Then do everything new to the different directions.  Put the side of the union with the nut on the house side so it will be easier to clean things up whenever it needs to come apart.

At least that faucet can be rebuilt with a new washer when needed, but I would probably never use it.

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