China Cabinet


bradpotts

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I like magnets ! K&J Magnetics has a huge selection and tons of technical data available, but they aren't the cheapest source. 

I finish glass doors on all surfaces then glue the glass in place with a bead of Lexcel clear caulk. Might take a couple days to dry but the door is stronger, glass doesn't rattle and I've been doing it for over 25 years. Lay the glass in place, run a bead only around the back and smooth with a finger dipped in mineral spirits . It can be cut out if needed to replace a broken pane. 

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I like magnets ! K&J Magnetics has a huge selection and tons of technical data available, but they aren't the cheapest source. 
I finish glass doors on all surfaces then glue the glass in place with a bead of Lexcel clear caulk. Might take a couple days to dry but the door is stronger, glass doesn't rattle and I've been doing it for over 25 years. Lay the glass in place, run a bead only around the back and smooth with a finger dipped in mineral spirits . It can be cut out if needed to replace a broken pane. 

Thanks Steve but the client wants to be able to take the glass out to clean it. I decided to just use the plastic holders.


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What a great fix and the molding really adds allot.  I screwed up a door myself the other day but it was beyond repair. 

I spent a couple minutes thinking about fixing it or starting over. I decided since I am staining it and it is the back of the door it will be fine. Always a tough decision: when is it bad enough to fix vs start over.


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32 minutes ago, bradpotts said:


I spent a couple minutes thinking about fixing it or starting over. I decided since I am staining it and it is the back of the door it will be fine. Always a tough decision: when is it bad enough to fix vs start over.


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If you don't tell anyone they will never no Brad.  I drilled a 35mm hole in the wrong door. No fixing that. LOL

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Nice fix, the wedge thing is a good idea.

I find magnets easier to get a good install. Ball catches just seem tough to get that exact position correct...but they feel a low classier too, so it depends.  I'm using a ball catch on something next week, I've been a little anxious about getting the install correct on-site. :unsure:

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I slap together a sample door and practice the hardware install when I haven't used that type or brand in a long time. This lets you figure out a better way before you mount it on the actual project.  You could also practice in the least visible location. Then mount the eye level hardware last .A magnifying headset and close focus on accuracy are a big help. Clamping a block to keep the catch exactly in place reduces the chance of it moving. Trace the footprint and mark the hole locations then pre drill a tiny hole for the screws. On a lot of imported hardware replacing cheap Asian screws is something I do all the time. If you are installing brass screws get steel screws the same size and install with those then swap to the brass ones. Pre threaded holes make installing brass screws much easier. The steel screws need to be the same thread spacing.  The same approach is smart if the hardware comes with colored screws. Carefully match the screwdriver fit to the head, a poor fit increases the chance of a slip marring brass or colored screws.If you can't find replacement screws for the soft cheap screws that come with so much hardware these days treat them as softer than brass because they can be.

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Brad your work is excellent. Tell the client curly says the overall experience of caulked in glass outweighs the minimal benefit of removing the glass. I like it when the client asks what is best. The project is always better. As it is it is beautiful. However I would add a base. There are many designs to consider and easy to add to what you have. I would do it for looks and I like the bottom shelf off the floor. Regardless, this is fine furniture.

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I see both sides to the glass mounting issue. "A" The customer is always right. "B" the glass rattles every time the door is closed.

I would suggest my method then graciously accede to the customers preference. With either method it's smart to finish the door on all sides before mounting the glass.

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1 hour ago, curlyoak said:

In my early years of woodwork money was a big issue. And I would "graciously accede" after suggesting the best approach. I still work for money but the importance now is more about the work. So if a request to alter the design or other egregious efforts on the project I then politely decline the work. It feels good to not let money be the only factor. I can no longer go down the path that harms the project and in the long run the client. That is a lose, lose situation because if you do exactly what is asked I will likely be bad mouthed by the client. Now I walk away...

I guess for myself its about the work and paying the bills. Take the job I'm doing now.  For one thing I don't care for plywood panel doors but cant build solid doors for the same price. They had got a quote from someone else for ply doors so I gave a price for ply and solid and told them why solid is better. They wanted ply so that's what they are getting.   I'm not going to turn down a job because  its not what I like.   I feel its more about what they want and that's why they pay for custom work,  I agree with you that a base looks nice but I also think brads cabinet looks great without one.  Just my opinion.

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Brad your work is excellent. Tell the client curly says the overall experience of caulked in glass outweighs the minimal benefit of removing the glass. I like it when the client asks what is best. The project is always better. As it is it is beautiful. However I would add a base. There are many designs to consider and easy to add to what you have. I would do it for looks and I like the bottom shelf off the floor. Regardless, this is fine furniture.

There is going to be feet on it. I just haven’t got that far yet.


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I usually give the client my advice as for functionality. But I usually let them decide as far as maintenance I usually do what they want. I also had the discussion with them about adding feet or having base trim. They were concerned about cleaning under the cabinet so they didn’t necessarily want feet. I told them that I think the feet would look better with the cabinets, but it was up to them.


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Worked on a little trim today and started the design on the feet.
Here is the design they liked for the corners of the bottom doors.
bd97de69c4d4538478a31add72973fcf.jpg9615ccc636424472d95ba107b3239f24.jpg
I resawed the wenge to get all four of the designs. I planed it down somewhat close to the final thickness. I noticed a lot of tension released so I decided to take it easy and make sure I take the precautions now. I can only glue the side on because I can’t glue it to the door because it is solid. So I can’t have it warping on me.
8cc2f7d50ee6ead2440e11015a245e88.jpg
Then I started getting the feet design ready.
0104bc03651592eb810e0b481f734510.jpg
Getting the cove ready.
dac3a7e408cd0ae4d1165d604e278ea4.jpg
Before I could get any farther. I was interrupted by the arrival of my 20” planer I ordered like eight months ago. But excited to have it. Wish I had it for this build because everything is 18” wide.
18cddf0ba4c75da02e17be12aaa8c26d.jpg


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