mat60 Posted March 13, 2018 Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 Agree with Steve. The door install looks great as does the cabinet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 13, 2018 Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 Great attention to detail. Looking good bud! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post bradpotts Posted March 15, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Things are going a little slower nowadays. I made the top doors just like the bottoms but with an ogee style and rail bit. But when I was cutting out the back for the glass, I broke a piece off. Of course I couldn’t find it and the cutoff from the board I used was to small, but here is my repair job. Not to worried about it because it is on the back of the door and will be stained. I have found the best way to fix mistakes like this is to cut the piece at an angle so you can wedge the piece in to get a tighter fit. Cleaned upGot the doors to fit. They were not as easy as the bottoms. But all is well that ends well. Still need to figure out the latch type. Was thinking about magnets or the ball catches. Any other ideas are more than welcome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Nice work on that repair! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 I like magnets ! K&J Magnetics has a huge selection and tons of technical data available, but they aren't the cheapest source. I finish glass doors on all surfaces then glue the glass in place with a bead of Lexcel clear caulk. Might take a couple days to dry but the door is stronger, glass doesn't rattle and I've been doing it for over 25 years. Lay the glass in place, run a bead only around the back and smooth with a finger dipped in mineral spirits . It can be cut out if needed to replace a broken pane. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 I like magnets ! K&J Magnetics has a huge selection and tons of technical data available, but they aren't the cheapest source. I finish glass doors on all surfaces then glue the glass in place with a bead of Lexcel clear caulk. Might take a couple days to dry but the door is stronger, glass doesn't rattle and I've been doing it for over 25 years. Lay the glass in place, run a bead only around the back and smooth with a finger dipped in mineral spirits . It can be cut out if needed to replace a broken pane. Thanks Steve but the client wants to be able to take the glass out to clean it. I decided to just use the plastic holders. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Got the crown molding on. It’s times like these that I wish I had some help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 You're moving right along that crown molding turned out great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Ah, she's a lookin' good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Definitely looking good Brad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 What a great fix and the molding really adds allot. I screwed up a door myself the other day but it was beyond repair. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted March 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 What a great fix and the molding really adds allot. I screwed up a door myself the other day but it was beyond repair. I spent a couple minutes thinking about fixing it or starting over. I decided since I am staining it and it is the back of the door it will be fine. Always a tough decision: when is it bad enough to fix vs start over. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 32 minutes ago, bradpotts said: I spent a couple minutes thinking about fixing it or starting over. I decided since I am staining it and it is the back of the door it will be fine. Always a tough decision: when is it bad enough to fix vs start over. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk If you don't tell anyone they will never no Brad. I drilled a 35mm hole in the wrong door. No fixing that. LOL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Nice fix, the wedge thing is a good idea. I find magnets easier to get a good install. Ball catches just seem tough to get that exact position correct...but they feel a low classier too, so it depends. I'm using a ball catch on something next week, I've been a little anxious about getting the install correct on-site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 I slap together a sample door and practice the hardware install when I haven't used that type or brand in a long time. This lets you figure out a better way before you mount it on the actual project. You could also practice in the least visible location. Then mount the eye level hardware last .A magnifying headset and close focus on accuracy are a big help. Clamping a block to keep the catch exactly in place reduces the chance of it moving. Trace the footprint and mark the hole locations then pre drill a tiny hole for the screws. On a lot of imported hardware replacing cheap Asian screws is something I do all the time. If you are installing brass screws get steel screws the same size and install with those then swap to the brass ones. Pre threaded holes make installing brass screws much easier. The steel screws need to be the same thread spacing. The same approach is smart if the hardware comes with colored screws. Carefully match the screwdriver fit to the head, a poor fit increases the chance of a slip marring brass or colored screws.If you can't find replacement screws for the soft cheap screws that come with so much hardware these days treat them as softer than brass because they can be. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Coop Posted March 17, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 22 hours ago, bradpotts said: Thanks Steve but the client wants to be able to take the glass out to clean it. I decided to just use the plastic holders. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk You’re obviously not building this for MY wife! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 Brad your work is excellent. Tell the client curly says the overall experience of caulked in glass outweighs the minimal benefit of removing the glass. I like it when the client asks what is best. The project is always better. As it is it is beautiful. However I would add a base. There are many designs to consider and easy to add to what you have. I would do it for looks and I like the bottom shelf off the floor. Regardless, this is fine furniture. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 I see both sides to the glass mounting issue. "A" The customer is always right. "B" the glass rattles every time the door is closed. I would suggest my method then graciously accede to the customers preference. With either method it's smart to finish the door on all sides before mounting the glass. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post curlyoak Posted March 18, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 In my early years of woodwork money was a big issue. And I would "graciously accede" after suggesting the best approach. I still work for money but the importance now is more about the work. So if a request to alter the design or other egregious efforts on the project I then politely decline the work. It feels good to not let money be the only factor. I can no longer go down the path that harms the project and in the long run the client. That is a lose, lose situation because if you do exactly what is asked I will likely be bad mouthed by the client. Now I walk away... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 1 hour ago, curlyoak said: In my early years of woodwork money was a big issue. And I would "graciously accede" after suggesting the best approach. I still work for money but the importance now is more about the work. So if a request to alter the design or other egregious efforts on the project I then politely decline the work. It feels good to not let money be the only factor. I can no longer go down the path that harms the project and in the long run the client. That is a lose, lose situation because if you do exactly what is asked I will likely be bad mouthed by the client. Now I walk away... I guess for myself its about the work and paying the bills. Take the job I'm doing now. For one thing I don't care for plywood panel doors but cant build solid doors for the same price. They had got a quote from someone else for ply doors so I gave a price for ply and solid and told them why solid is better. They wanted ply so that's what they are getting. I'm not going to turn down a job because its not what I like. I feel its more about what they want and that's why they pay for custom work, I agree with you that a base looks nice but I also think brads cabinet looks great without one. Just my opinion. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted March 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 Brad your work is excellent. Tell the client curly says the overall experience of caulked in glass outweighs the minimal benefit of removing the glass. I like it when the client asks what is best. The project is always better. As it is it is beautiful. However I would add a base. There are many designs to consider and easy to add to what you have. I would do it for looks and I like the bottom shelf off the floor. Regardless, this is fine furniture.There is going to be feet on it. I just haven’t got that far yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted March 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 I usually give the client my advice as for functionality. But I usually let them decide as far as maintenance I usually do what they want. I also had the discussion with them about adding feet or having base trim. They were concerned about cleaning under the cabinet so they didn’t necessarily want feet. I told them that I think the feet would look better with the cabinets, but it was up to them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 If a client insists on some detail that could lead to something breaking/failing I ask them to acknowledge the risk in writing ( email) . Feet or a baseboard is just aesthetics to me. Baseboard implies a built in, feet give a furniture feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 Feet can look good too. It was just too low. I'm sure when you are done with it it will be just right! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted March 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 Worked on a little trim today and started the design on the feet. Here is the design they liked for the corners of the bottom doors. I resawed the wenge to get all four of the designs. I planed it down somewhat close to the final thickness. I noticed a lot of tension released so I decided to take it easy and make sure I take the precautions now. I can only glue the side on because I can’t glue it to the door because it is solid. So I can’t have it warping on me. Then I started getting the feet design ready. Getting the cove ready. Before I could get any farther. I was interrupted by the arrival of my 20” planer I ordered like eight months ago. But excited to have it. Wish I had it for this build because everything is 18” wide. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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