estesbubba Posted October 9, 2016 Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 54 minutes ago, Brendon_t said: Haha mike, you win. Cliff, What mike forgot to warn us about with his building a castle thread is that Osb is a giant B to paint. Yes OSB sucks paint faster than Budweiser's at a bachelor party. I used a good primer and paint with primer in it and it still sucked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 9, 2016 Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 Would it help to spray a sanding sealer first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted October 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 2 hours ago, Brendon_t said: Is the Osb going over the drywall or is that only for the cieling? Only on the ceiling. 1 hour ago, Brendon_t said: Haha mike, you win. Cliff, What mike forgot to warn us about with his building a castle thread is that Osb is a giant B to paint. I was thinking of painting it too. I don't look forward to the task. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 9, 2016 Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 1 hour ago, estesbubba said: Yes OSB sucks paint faster than Budweiser's at a bachelor party. I used a good primer and paint with primer in it and it still sucked. I ended up having to do two full strength primer coats. I was astonished how much the Osb just absorbed it like it wasn't there. @Cliff I would paint it white. Especially since you hate natural light. Dark Osb doesn't really reflect crap. It will make the shop really dark. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 9, 2016 Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 Hint: paint the OSB on the ground. Things will go much easier. Typically you will only need one finish coat after installation. I would not do that for walls, just ceilings. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted October 9, 2016 Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 I guess OSB varies. My shop is lined with it, & I just sprayed 1 coat of latex primer followed by 1 coat of latex white semigloss. I rented an airless sprayer from Home Depot. Done in 1 evening. Of course you can still see the chip pattern, but the are no thin spots or areas where the paint got sucked into the surface. The stuff I used seemed to have a coating on 1 side that makes it resistant to the weather for XX number of days before being closed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 9, 2016 Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 Newer OSB is coming pre-coated due to concerns with moisture in the field. Old or cheap stuff will still have a lot of raw surface. Mutiple coats of primer and primer in paint are both farce. Primer does not cover well as binders etc are taking up some of the mix. All they do is provide good adhesion and a barrier coat. All paint has some of those binders. Prime, then get right to coverage coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Cliff Posted November 19, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 In my ever continuing quest to finally get this dang shop to be useable year around.. Cutting a hole oughta make it winterized! Or put in a gable fan.. Installing 6 or 7 new joists at the same level so I can put the osb up. First sheet of osb might go up tomorrow. I know it's been like two months since I started the ceiling, but it just seems like other things keep popping up. Used a drywall lift to bring them up level so they can be fastened to the structure. And finally, something that I was qualified to do, Garage door insulation panels. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted May 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Since the weather turned nice, I've finally gotten back to this. After we put up 6 more studs on the ceiling, and moving one down, I was finally able to put up panels. It was insane because the entire garage is not only sunk on the left side, it's sunk more on the back than the front, which means the entire frame is twisted. So measuring a panel at 91" - may be 92" 4' further down the stud. Plus, the level of the studs (even with the new ones they had to put in for the electric garage door) are higher than the bottom of the roof if that makes sense. So after putting up all the panels, there was a 12-18" area around the entire ceiling where I'll have to put up pieces at a 45 degree angle. Then: Lights! A total of six at the moment. But I may do up some LED's at some point. Also, built a small cabinet to go under the right side of my table saw that has five drawers. Ordered 5 sheets of Kaizen Foam (pro-tip, order from FastCap and spend $100, they'll ship for free. Rockler, woodcraft charge $10 per foam to ship) Started trying to organize tools a bit better. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghost Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 its a journey!! not a trip!! looks good so far! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 Looking good Cliff. Will you be painting the ceiling and, the panels in the garage door(s), were they made for tha or did you cut down 4x8 sheets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 Never seen OSB on a ceiling before. Pro tip: Paint them white for better lighting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 3 hours ago, Llama said: Never seen OSB on a ceiling before. Pro tip: Paint them white for better lighting. I did OSB on the ceiling, painted white of course. Makes it all kinds of easy when hanging lights, power, ducts etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 22 hours ago, K Cooper said: Looking good Cliff. Will you be painting the ceiling and, the panels in the garage door(s), were they made for tha or did you cut down 4x8 sheets? 21 hours ago, Llama said: Never seen OSB on a ceiling before. Pro tip: Paint them white for better lighting. I do want to paint them white, but I also really want to do some projects so I don't know how fast I will get to them. Cooper- Garage door, the panels were bought from either menards or lowes. They were already cut, but I had to remove about 6 inches off the width of each one to get them to fit. If I remember right one pack did half the garage door and was $50. I actually had them in before winter hit but everything was so messed up out there I never made it out to see if the door panels made a difference. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 On 8/30/2015 at 7:09 PM, Cliff said: Hmm looks like it's 1.95mb per thread now on photos? Not just on each post? This is not good. Threadjack - I've been using (free) PixResizer for years. Man what a journey. This thread is great. As mentioned, there is no destination, just satisfying stops along the way. +1 on a white ceiling during my next re-org. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 13 hours ago, Cliff said: Cooper- Garage door, the panels were bought from either menards or lowes. They were already cut, but I had to remove about 6 inches off the width of each one to get them to fit. If I remember right one pack did half the garage door and was $50. I actually had them in before winter hit but everything was so messed up out there I never made it out to see if the door panels made a difference. I really need to do this...it's the last uninsulated part of my shop. An uninsulated aluminum garage door is like having a giant one of these...without the glare... I use photobucket to host all my images. No limit on threads if you need to photo bomb. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted May 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Oh that was right after the forum update and I thought there was a limit put in cause it errored it. Turned out I had forgotten to resize a pic and it was like 6mb. I use photoshop to resize usually. 13 hours ago, gee-dub said: Threadjack - I've been using (free) PixResizer for years. Man what a journey. This thread is great. As mentioned, there is no destination, just satisfying stops along the way. +1 on a white ceiling during my next re-org. The great thing is that if all goes according to plan - in about five years I'll get everything perfected and then tear down the garage and build a 3 car garage or the equivalent pole barn type thing. I might have to start a new thread for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 I used OSB on the walls, haven't decided about ceiling yet. I've heard primer with oil based kilz so that's what I'm gonna do. 1 coat primer the fill gaps with drywall compound then a second coat of primer before paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 Welcome to season 3 of my shop overhaul. In previous seasons we put up walls and insulated, then put up ceiling with insulation, but this was the year that the floor had to be done. I knew it had to be soon because I intend to go buy a Sawstop on April 15ish. I'd rather the floor was ready for that rather than trying to move a cabinet saw on my busted ass floor. So for the longest time I was pretty sure I was going to pour a new floor. I estimated the costs to be a minimum of $3000, concrete here is about $125/yard. Demo costs would have been atrocious of course, or back breaking if I did it myself. Option 2 was a wooden floor. I was estimated around $1000 to do it. My shop is 18.5' x 17.5' of usable space. Then I saw Shaneymack do the same thing and he brought up some great things I didn't think of. Like instead of using treated 2x4's, using Timberstrand. Of course the materials he used were not really available here. But I ordered what I could through Menards. I ended up with -44 10' LSL (basically compressed osb 2x4's that are dead straight) Couldn't really get 20', had no way to transport -13 1" extruded closed cell foam sheets -750 sqft of 6 mil (9 mil? 6? I don't remember. The right kind) plastic sheeting. -13 sheets of 4x8 tongue & groove 3/4" osb -2 cans of Rust-o-leum epoxy -Like 15 or so pressure treated 2x4s for blocking and shimming Just the foam and osb First step was to raise the door because it was pretty low. We raised it 4.5 inches using 3 2x6's Went pretty smoothly. Here are some action shots of the garage floor. There was a 5 inch gap from the highest to lowest part. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted April 5, 2018 Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 Man, that’s a helluva an undertaking. I hope you have plenty of strong backed friends available. Buenos Suerte Bud. Best of Luck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted April 5, 2018 Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 I think a wood shop floor will be great. You were not kidding about the old floor. I will enjoy seeing your shop overhaul. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 My stepdad and I laid the plastic on half the garage floor first. Sadly, the chances of rain were like 800%, so we couldn't move much outside. That meant we had to do half the garage, then the other half. FYI, the 4x4 you see in the back is just support to help the garage stay upright. They pushed the bottom of the back out 50 or so years ago and didn't do anything to add support. Then we laid out a sorta-square. We knew the walls were not square, so the plan was to make it square from the first stud to the garage door. It worked out pretty well. The result on the area we started was that the final area there at the back was between 20 and 22 inches wide. So 2" out of square over 10'. I used treated 2x4, some 1/2" cedar that I have tons of and shims for the entire shimming process. So up to this point we'd spent about 8 hours on this project. Part of it was because we had to fix the garage door, and ended up calling someone to do it because we don't know how to adjust the tension on the springs right. Then moving everything out, and honestly I can't do much on my knees before my back kills itself. Therefore, day 2 we brought in my nephew, who does this for a living. About 30 mins later- A couple of hours later ( the shimming takes time) And later in the night, he got most of the front half shimmed and ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 Third day we had about half the floor done. Check out the door, even raising it 4.5 inches we didn't have a lot of clearance. You can see how the entire side of the garage tilts inward, causing the door to not open squarely. Long story short, the entire garage mess is because they improperly set the footings and didn't have gutters. As a result, the sides sunk into the ground and caused the pad to break up. It actually took us a good 9 hour to get the rest mostly done. There were distractions, like my nephews pregnant girlfriend there the entire time, my sister popping by and wasting time with lunch, and it was 30 degrees with a 20 mph wind. Still, the last 2 hours my nephew kicked it into overdrive and did the work of 5 people. I am pretty sure I was never that awesome at age 23. Hardly seems fair. About 8pm, we were nearly done. Just a 2' section across the side and a bit at the back, which he just came back and finished today. The one piece was 4" out of square over 8', because the wall. Even worse, the wall undulated, so you almost had to make a wavey cut. Next up.. I'm going to have to figure out how to run a 220 line to the middle of the shop because I forgot to do it while we were building. And I'll do the epoxy. I'll probably wait until June or so to do that so I can get some better temps. I'm going to use this opportunity to figure out a better solution for the side walls. I have some extra osb I can put up so I can fasten stuff better. And I can think a bit more on how to arrange the shop to my liking, and start thinking about ductwork finally. I'd like to upgrade to a better dust collector next year, so I want to have the ducting in place for that. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted April 5, 2018 Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 What a difference that made. As far as the wire was you thinking about taking a bit of wall board off and fishing something to the center of the shop area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 5, 2018 Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 I remember you mentioning how messed up the slab was but damn ! Can't you just unscrew a section of floor to pull the wire ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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