estesbubba

Miter saw station time - need advice and questions

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I bought the Bosch 10" Glide on leap day and it's been sitting on my outfeed table since then and is ready to find a home. Here is the wall I have to work with for its location.

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My first preference is to do what Eric did and use it for an outfeed table for the bigger bandsaw and go where the router table currently is but there is an issue. Boards over 8' long on the table saw and jointer would run into the cabinet. I could rotate the TS and jointer 90º CW but then I would have to probably modify the DC ducting. I could have gaps in the MS cabinet to allow long boards to work. I would move the router table over by the small BS and also take the big BS off the mobile base to get it lower.

My second option would be to move the Bowflex and shelving on far left and put miter saw there. The downside is the miter saw would probably end up right where the triple outlets are - which I don't know is good or bad. The other thing is this moves lumber dimensioning out of the main cluster, which might not be a big deal - I do this to relax and not to rush.

The small BS is only used for curves and doesn't have ducting yet so that could move. The router table and Ridgid sander to the right of it have a drop but could be moved also. I can also move/remove the slatwall as a lot of that stuff on it I would like to eventually end up in drawers. 

What do you guys think on laying out the tools on this wall? Eventually I would like to get a lathe but that probably doesn't have to be against a wall and hooked in DC.

Some other questions:

1. Any good websites/videos on building shop cabinets? Sure I can do them but I'm looking for speed, efficiency and maximum sheet good use when building them. I'm not looking to wow people - I just need good functional cabinets.

2. For those that have both a MS and TS crosscut sled, how do you decide to when use one over the other? Really long makes sense on MS and really small on TS, but what about in-between?

 

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I can't really help with the problem i just want to compliment your nice looking shop and state that I'm envious of all the space you have.

I'd probably get a mobile kit for the 14" BS and put the miter station on that wall. I like things on wheels so i can move everything around. I'd even put the miter station on wheels. I want to say some one linked wheels that they used for a Roubo. This is me grasping at straws, i yield to what ever orgo man says.

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My MS station is mobile has flip up wings and a auto switch vac in the cabinet. Having said that I only use it for cutting down stock in fact it is in my lumber area outside of the shop area. I have 3 different sleds for all project final cuts.

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I know there's pictures on here of the one in my shop you can look at and hit me with any questions you have.  Chet and I also did a similar one in his shop and that will be in a more recent thread.. 

Hope it helps

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They make a 10".

 

I admittedly didn't read the whole OP, but if you are looking for easily made cabinets for a miter station, check out Jay Bates' videos on his.  His are huge, but I'm sure it can easily be scaled down if need be.

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Mike,

i would move the bow flex and move the small bandsaw to that location.  I would then build the miter saw station between band saws.  It looks like the table is higher on the smaller saw, so that could be an issue.  The easiest miter saw station I remember seeing online was Norms rebuild of his.  There was an Australian guy Paul Jenkins if I remember correctly just did one for his Bosch glide, he used melamine, but plywood would work fine.  Let me see if I can find links to both.

 

 

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2 hours ago, pkinneb said:

 in fact it is in my lumber area outside of the shop area.

IMHO this is the place for all miter saws.  The footprint versus the benefit does not compute in my shop.  Mine is in the shed on a stand.  When I do have some trim work or end cuts on long thin stock to do, out she comes and goes to work.  The rest of the time it is out of the way and safely stored.

 

We all have to have a strong opinion about something . . . this is mine ;-)

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I would swap the small band saw and router table, move the bowflex and put the ms on that wall.  I built my station on one wall and built in the router table.  This gave me 8' on the left of the saw and over 20' to the right.  I didn't use cabinets just open shelves underneath for small power tool storage.  I am one of the people that use my miter saw on nearly every project and want it near by.   At one point I tried to figure out a way to make this an out feed table for the band saw but it didn't work out, so I just made a removable out feed for the band saw.

3 hours ago, estesbubba said:

2. For those that have both a MS and TS crosscut sled, how do you decide to when use one over the other? Really long makes sense on MS and really small on TS, but what about in-between?

My answer to this is, Yes. B)  I use what makes the most sense at the time.

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4 hours ago, estesbubba said:

 

2. For those that have both a MS and TS crosscut sled, how do you decide to when use one over the other? Really long makes sense on MS and really small on TS, but what about in-between?

 

Would seem I missed this question :o

Depends on the piece and the project.  If I'm batching out multiple parts that are longer than my TS sled then, I use the chop saw.  Sometimes I use both.  Square up an end at the MS and then cut to length at the TS.  Frankly, it's nice to be able to set up stop blocks at both so you can leave a setting unchanged if needed.

Keep in mind that I have a Kapex and trust it for square clean cuts.  I see that you have the Bosh which most people love for good accurate cuts.  So, depends on your trust in the saw.

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I'm the opposite.  If I'm batching out multiple, identical parts, it's all about the sled.  If the parts are longer than my sled I use an extension and clamp the stop to it.  If I'm cutting to rough size or it's a piece that doesn't have an identical length counterpart, I'll use the chop saw.  Granted, I haven't got to a miter station yet so I don't have any stop block capabilities with it.  Maybe one day, but it's pretty low on my priority list.

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4 hours ago, estesbubba said:

2. For those that have both a MS and TS crosscut sled, how do you decide to when use one over the other? Really long makes sense on MS and really small on TS, but what about in-between?


Whichever one you're standing closer to.

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I am planning on a variation of the Jay Bates version. I have a height limitation. And of course, I don't have the saw yet. 

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30 minutes ago, Cliff said:

I am planning on a variation of the Jay Bates version. I have a height limitation. And of course, I don't have the saw yet.

I checked out his vid on his saw station build and to me it doesnt make cents to spend any more time or money for shop cabinets than he did.

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48 minutes ago, Cliff said:

I am planning on a variation of the Jay Bates version. I have a height limitation. And of course, I don't have the saw yet. 

The only thing I don't like about his version is that the fences aren't adjustable front to back.  Also, he gains a lot of storage there but, loses counter space if it's needed.

Works great for him and that's the important part.  Just things to think about when designing your own.

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26 minutes ago, TIODS said:

The only thing I don't like about his version is that the fences aren't adjustable front to back.  Also, he gains a lot of storage there but, loses counter space if it's needed.

Works great for him and that's the important part.  Just things to think about when designing your own.

Why do you need the fences to be adjustable front to back? I don't really use a miter saw so I am not familiar with the ins and outs.

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Just now, Cliff said:

Why do you need the fences to be adjustable front to back? I don't really use a miter saw so I am not familiar with the ins and outs.

Adding/removing a 0 clearance fence (or switching thicknesses) to the saw or just getting the fences out of the way if you need the space.

If you look at Chet's bookcase build, he backed them up and used them as a stop to use his biscuit jointer.

Just more flexibility.

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3 hours ago, shaneymack said:

Muscles of course

5cb83bef8c99373acb08cbbac91bf5ed.jpg

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

We're going to pump you up.

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Thanks to Chet for PM'ing me some ideas and others here - at the price of these cabinets no sense in spending a bunch of time building them for a shop. 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/36x34-5x24-in-Base-Cabinet-in-Unfinished-Oak-B36OHD/202020621

I'm going to put 2 36" cabinets to the left and 1 24" to the right which will give me 8' cutting capacity on left and 4' on right. The small BS will stay where it was and the blue tape shows where the saw center will be. 

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I'm going to remove 2 of these cheap shelves and move the TV above the window. 

IMG_1978.JPG

I have a fair amount of rift sawn red oak and wondering if that would be OK for the work surface for the cabinet tops? Being rift saw it should be pretty stable. Maybe double thick plywood or MDF would be better?

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I used double 3/4 ply Mike and it's held up well for me.  Cool part is that if it get's beat up, I just replace it and have a template to cut the parts.

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