15-20K for shop overhaul. Need ideas and what would you buy?


Cygnus A

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I am about to spend a lot of money and could use some advice. I've done a lot of research and came up with the tool list below, but that doesn't mean it cant be tweaked with some help from you guys. I am in the fortunate position of being able to spend a lot of money at once and start the shop over from scratch.

I will have a 24x20 space to use as my workshop. I can likely spend up to 20K for the overhaul. This will include all new tools, lighting, materials to build storage, etc.. I have a thickness planar, Sawstop TS, plenty of general hand tools and cordless power tools.

Immediate needs are tools to fabricate cabinets, desks, built-ins, etc.. for the house. So any suggestions or tips on what tools I should invest in to accomplish that would be much appreciated.

I've put this list together which puts me at around 14k total cost:

Jointer: Powermatic 1610082 8" Parallelogram w/ spiral head
Jointer Base: Powermatic 1610078 Mobile Base
Bandsaw: Laguna: 1 4/12
Drum Sander: Powermatic 2244
Tracksaw: Festool TS 55
Tracksaw Track: Festool 3000
Tracksaw Clamps: Festool 494594
Sander: Festool ETS 150
Router: Festool OF 1400
Paint Gun: Fuji HVLP Q5
Domino: Festool DF 500
Dust Collection: Festool CT 36 E
Dust Collection: Clear Vue CV1800LH
Miter Saw: Bosch GCM12SD

What items would you add/remove/replace?

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I got the TS 75 for the extra cut depth. It becomes more important on bevel cuts.

I've got the CT 26, it's got the same motor & suction. I often use mine all day in my custom cabinet shop and have never filled it up in a day. It's rare that it gets emptied more than once a week. So why pay more for a larger footprint in your limited shop space ?

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I would get the supermax instead of the pm drum sander and save some money.  Even if you can spend it, doesn't me you need to.  Also, I would look at the LR32 if you are building cabinets.

Also where are you located?  I'm debating about selling a few festools.

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3 minutes ago, Woodenskye said:

I would get the supermax instead of the pm drum sander and save some money.  Even if you can spend it, doesn't me you need to.  Also, I would look at the LR32 if you are building cabinets.

Also where are you located?  I'm debating about selling a few festools.

Arizona.

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15 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

I got the TS 75 for the extra cut depth. It becomes more important on bevel cuts.

I've got the CT 26, it's got the same motor & suction. I often use mine all day in my custom cabinet shop and have never filled it up in a day. It's rare that it gets emptied more than once a week. So why pay more for a larger footprint in your limited shop space ?

Good information. I think the CT 36 I just taller but same footprint? I might evaluate where I plan to store it and see which makes more sense.

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Nice list! I'm with Steve on the CT26 and the only other change for me would be the dust collector I would go Oneida but probably just because I have had one for over 10 years and have never regretted the purchase. The Q5 may be a bit of overkill as well my 4 has sprayed everything I have ever thrown at it but given the price difference probably not an issue.

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4 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

Nice list! I'm with Steve on the CT26 and the only other change for me would be the dust collector I would go Oneida but probably just because I have had one for over 10 years and have never regretted the purchase. The Q5 may be a bit of overkill as well my 4 has sprayed everything I have ever thrown at it but given the price difference probably not an issue.

Yeah. I am pretty excited. Maybe I should go with the Q4 and an extra gun? I just didn't want to ever be in a situation where I wish I had a little more power.

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Just now, Cygnus A said:

Yeah. I am pretty excited. Maybe I should go with the Q4 and an extra gun? I just didn't want to ever be in a situation where I wish I had a little more power.

I hear you! I have two guns a small gravity fed cup and a standard gun and use the small gun more often.

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Yep agree with Bryan on the Supermax.  I also don't see a router table and you need one of those.  You'll need the CT vac for your Festools but it won't be able to handle DC on your big tools with 4" ports...so you need at least a 2HP DC...or bigger if you actually want to breathe the air in your shop.

I'd put the DC as a priority over the Fuji.  Put the spray system on the backburner for a while if you run out of money and learn wiping varnish, then graduate to spraying.

A decent drill press is nice to have too.  I'd put that over the Fuji as well.  Jet...whatever model that is that everyone is raving about these days.  Good unit.

15-20k goes fast. :)

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4 hours ago, Cygnus A said:

Tracksaw: Festool TS 55

I have this and I am happy with it but Steve is right, if you see the need to do bevel cuts on thick material you may want to think about the 75.  The 55 45 degree bevel using the track is 1 & 15/16 inch.

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1 hour ago, Mike. said:

If you have $20k and don't know what to buy, you should not spend $20K

Sit on it, invest it while it waits for a project asks for a new tool, then buy the new tool.

But setup the DC right ahead of time.   That one splurge on.   And not just the dust collector.  You're going to have a lot more cost in the duct work, fixtures, etc.  You can design it ahead of time to have multiple drop points that can be added later, so when you do go get that beautiful drum sander those cutting boards have been begging for, it will be a simple project to install and hook it up to the DC. 

But I agree, don't outfit the shop ahead of time, get a couple/few core tools and a good DC setup.  Then when you are doing a project, and you say "Hey I need X", then you still have the cash available for X, and it can be delivered within a week or so. 

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1 hour ago, Marmotjr said:

Sit on it, invest it while it waits for a project asks for a new tool, then buy the new tool.

But setup the DC right ahead of time.   That one splurge on.   And not just the dust collector.  You're going to have a lot more cost in the duct work, fixtures, etc.  You can design it ahead of time to have multiple drop points that can be added later, so when you do go get that beautiful drum sander those cutting boards have been begging for, it will be a simple project to install and hook it up to the DC. 

But I agree, don't outfit the shop ahead of time, get a couple/few core tools and a good DC setup.  Then when you are doing a project, and you say "Hey I need X", then you still have the cash available for X, and it can be delivered within a week or so. 

I won't buy everything at once. Just planning ahead and trying to get feedback.

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I totally agree with Mike.  But on the other hand, screw him. LOL

Everything you have on your list is a solid purchase.  As long as you KNOW woodworking is your thing and you're gonna be doing it the rest of your life...then they're all good investments.

We've just seen a number of newbies come crashing in here and dropping tens of thousands of dollars to build basically a small pro shop...and then produce...like, nothing.  Mike is just trying to save you from yourself.  Be sure.  That's all he's saying.

Skills cost nothing, but they're much harder to acquire.  It's always good advice to start building projects and add tools as you find them necessary.  But several of the tools on your list are essentials so they're low risk purchases.

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Looks like a pretty good list. You need more Festool, much more Festool. :-) Systainers make the cutest shop decoration lol. Be sure to get the Ets EC 150 sander and not just the ets. You need to budget for electrical and ducting. Depending on what you are doing for ducts, it could cost a heck of a lot. I would add a drillpress, doesnt need to be anything fancy. Swap the df500 for the df700 with Seneca adapter. That way you can use all the domino sizes with the one machine.

 

Im all for dropping all this money on the shop. Go nuts man and have fun, you only live once ! Keep us updated with some pics .

 

 

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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It looks like you're projects consist of a lot of panels.  Were you planning on using the tracksaw to accomplish processing?  Given your budget, perhaps the SawStop sliding table attachment would be a good investment considering it would just bolt on to your tablesaw?  I have a lot of panel processing needs on the horizon, and I know a sliding table would be preferable to me to using just a tracksaw for everything, but it no doubt can be done with the ts55, too.

I'd second the LR32 investment, particularly since you've got a lot of other Festool stuff on your list and you have a lot of cabinet projects.  Even if you don't adhere to the 32mm system for setting up frameless construction and hinge/slide placement, it'll make the process of shelf-hole drilling much less of a chore.

One other thought:  Are you doing frameless or face frame?  A rudimentary edge bander might be good if you're going frameless.

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32 minutes ago, The Region Rogue said:

SawStop sliding table attachment

Even Sawstop will tell you this is only rated for under 100 pounds. It's basically a waste of money... Which is further proven by coming out with a new version of it. 

If you want a sliding saw, get a real sliding saw. They cost money... but whatever. Better to spend 6K on a real sliding saw than 4K on the Sawstop and another grand on the slider that will frustrate you. 6K is for the Hammer, price goes up from there depending on brands. 

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Even Sawstop will tell you this is only rated for under 100 pounds. It's basically a waste of money... Which is further proven by coming out with a new version of it. 

If you want a sliding saw, get a real sliding saw.  

 

Unless the guy is running a cabinet shop the Sawstop attachement is really good. It is not geared for someone that is cutting sheet goods all day long. I don't see how the 100lb limit would ever be an issue in a hobby shop. I think of it as a miter gauge on steroids with the option to do some sheet goods if needed. The bigger sawstop slider they just released is more for a guy running sheet goods all day which is more like a real slider. I think the real downfall of the sawstop slider is the lack of detents. Not sure why they did that

 

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Don't want to get into a slider debate here. But the Sawstop slider is nowhere close to being a real slider. Like you said, glorified miter gauge. But fails even in that regard. The 100 pounds comment is important as most people don't think about it. Put a full sheet of ply on there, push down to hold it. Bam easily 100 pounds of downward force on the poorly designed sliding accessory.

 

True sliders get a bad rap for being beneficial only in cabinet shops. That's the wrong mindset. Could go on a rant here... not the place.

 

My point was that if you want a great cabinet saw... the sawstop or pm are great units. If you want a slider, then look elsewhere.

 

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I really can't give advice unless I know what you build.   Post some pictures of your projects and I can better understand your needs   

That being said, I really think you are wasting your time and money if you need to ask for advice.  

I built my shop one machine at a time, and I am glad I did because I have no regrets and it suits me perfectly.    Had I taken the "just add water" approach (which I could have afforded) I would have spent a lot more dough and probably spent a year setting up all those machines and never building anything.   Now, for some folks the shop is the hobby and any furniture comes out of it is an expensive byproduct.  I guess that is cool, but I don't have time to play house.  

I have 6" jointer because that is all I need for furniture sized parts.  To me an 8" is absolutely not worth the marginal cost.   

I spent $4000 on a drum sander because I wanted something fast and rock solid   

I have a big bandsaw for a hobbyist (PM1500).  

My planer is just a 12" dewalt   

I have a floor standing craftsman drill press, which is fine but honestly I don't see the need for a drill press in a furniture shop.  Most folks would put a drill press in their top 6, I would put it at somewhere between #10 and 20.  

My point is I picked my spots.   I have a few machines that are stupid expensive for a hobbyist, but a bunch that look like poor red headed step children by comparison.  

In my mind, most folks spend way too much on tablesaws.  But I build furniture, not cabinets.   

My advice... spend a grand on a jointer, build some stuff and decide what you want.  

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Drill press is a must.  Spindle sander may fit in with your wood working style.  I enjoy the hell out of my scroll saw (if your inot that at all.

Do take the time toplan and  layout out your shop on paper including the DC and electrical ( including lights).

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