Heat!


Marmotjr

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Ahhhhhhhh... so nice.

Shop is in a 2.5 car attached garage (rental house), but doesn't have heat and the door is poorly sealed.   So it's very cold out here.  It's also where my computer is as I'm a cigar smoker and I don't want to muck up the house.    Suffered through last year shivering, but last week I said F this and broke down and ordered a torpedo heater from amazon.  60k BTU, takes about 30 minutes to warm the air up where I'm not seeing my breath and my hands are usable.  About 45 minutes to an hour and I take off my over coat.  Seems like I'll get about 3-4 weeks per 20 lb propane tank.   Much more comfortable.   With the drafts and basement staircase in the garage, I'm not too worried about CO build up. 

I know last year I ruined a couple bowls from catches that I attribute to numb hands.   I have fingerless gloves, but I'm always hesitant to wear them around some of the tools.  But having heat is so much nicer.

80k model at home depot goes for $200ish, this was $80 from amazon, good reviews, and is working great so far!  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044R8Y5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Hmmm... I got mine with prime shipping, and it was a "Amazon Choice" item, but now it's not listed as prime, so if you're lookig, might have to wait till they get it back in stock.  Price listed now is $110  + shipping.

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My OH door was terribly leaky so I spent a short afternoon tuning up the tracks & hardware & installing a secondary set of weatherstrip. Now it seals tight even with a stiff north wind (door faces north). I think the weatherstrip set was less than $50, so the effort & cost to benefit ratio was very good.

On the other hand, with that propane heater you still want to maintain some fresh air leakage. A CO alarm would be a good idea as well.

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+1 on the CO monitor.  It's cheap insurance.

I know what you mean about heat.  I put in a 220V electric heater in my basement last year.  It's not well insulated so I can't make it toasty, but it's the difference between working in a jacket and waiting for spring.

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Yes.  Heat is a good thing!  I'm picking up the last two sections of vent duct tomorrow for my heater.  I've got a little over 500sqft, and went with a Sterling GG45.  Against better judgement, I fired it up with no exhaust ducting last night after getting the gas piping and thermostat.  Totally worth having to leave the window open all night and losing all my heat!

 

And, yes to the CO alarm.  Easy purchase, shouldn't need justification. 

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I use those little ones too, to get things warmed up on really cold days.  A 20 pound tank lasts about 8 hours.   I also have a couple of big ones that run on kerosene, but they rarely get used, and only in a big, open building, because I hate the smell.

I bought, and returned several of the little propane ones that wouldn't fire.  I finally had luck with a "factory refurbished" one off of ebay.  That's the only kind I will buy now.

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Anyone use a wood burning stove? I have a brand new 16’ x 24’ detached garage with 10’ ceilings that I am slowly getting set up to be a hobby/part-time-woodworker-on-the-side-for-cash shop. It wasn’t insulated so I started with insulation board on the ceiling this past weekend. I hope to put off insulating the walls until spring/summer (countintuitive I know but that’s when I have vacation time to do it) Bought a small space heater that didn’t give me one extra degree of heat. I may trade that in for a propane torpedo heater to get me through the winter. Eventually I was thinking about a small pot-belly stove in the corner. I like the idea of wood heat. Anyone have any experience with this?

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Well,  there are some that say an open flame is to be avoided.  And then there are a lot of people that burn something (natural gas, propane, wood) to heat their shops.

I don't know where reality lies.  I took the safe route and put in 220V electric heat, but the biggest unit I could do does not make my uninsulated Chicago basement shop as warm as I would like.  And it costs about a buck an hour to operate.

If you work in a very dusty shop with a lot of sawdust in the air, or you use a lot of volatile solvents and finishes, or if you do any spray finishing at all, then I would definitely not have an open flame.

I suspect that some of the forum members will have very different views.  And as I said I don't have the answer.

Too bad Mythbusters is off the air.  It would make a great episode.

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I have a large wood furnace in my shop and have for years . I do a lot of sanding and spray a full set of cabinets using solvent. While I'm spraying I open the window by the stove and turn the large fan on at the other side of the room until the cloud of overspray is gone. Close the shop back up and heat it up again to get ready for the next coat. I need to do some finishing soon and if I drop of the forum you will have a idea why..  I wouldn't tell anyone its safe. 

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I know what you mean about heat. My shop, 2 car garage, is only partially insulated and no heat. I plan to remedy that over Christmas break. Will be installing insulation and drywall at the front 8 foot and also sealing and insulating the over head door. The furnace for the house is in the shop, up draft, so my plan is to tap into the duct at an access panel and run a vent. I know nothing about HVAC, so I hope it does not screw up the rest of the house. I will be adding a baffle for the garage vent so I can open when in use, and close when not. 

 

If there are any HVAC people here, let me know if this is a dumb idea.

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This much I've learned from other HVAC people.  

The furnace capacity may or may not be large enough to manage the house and garage.

One duct might not be enough to heat the garage.  But it should have a damper to regulate air flow.

Ideally you would also have an air return.

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1 hour ago, Mark J said:

This much I've learned from other HVAC people.  

The furnace capacity may or may not be large enough to manage the house and garage.

One duct might not be enough to heat the garage.  But it should have a damper to regulate air flow.

Ideally you would also have an air return.

I am going to use a blast gate for the damper. I dont like the HVAC dampers I have found online. They dont seem to do a good job of sealing. It will be closed when not in the garage, no need to heat it when not in use. this is a cheap option to experiment with. If it doesnt work, I can put it back to the original configuration. My original plan was to have a gas line installed and run a radiant NG heater. Contractor wanted $1k to run less than 10ft of line. Plan was to tap off of the main line that feeds the furnace and water heater. If the HVAC plan oesnt work, I may go back to that.

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2 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Can't be more than a couple hours work, so he was charging like $500 an hour? Yikes, i'm in the WRONG field, wasted my time on a 4 year degree i did.

You aint kidding! I was shocked when he quoted the price. If this was water or an airline I'd do it myself. I do not really want to mess around with gas lines.

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3 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

There is an old joke about a doctor that called a plumber to fix a leak. When presented with the bill, the doc exclaimed "Holy cow, I don't make that much per hour!", to which the plumber replied, "Yeah, neither did I, when I was a doctor."

 

Haha

 

To be clear, the 1k included parts, labor and tax. Parts were roughly $200

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45 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

for 10 feet what was it gold plated!>?

I can only assume......

26 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

That appears to be the I really don't want the work but for $1K i'd do it quote right there :) 

Normally I would agree with you, but I got two separate estimates and they were roughly the same cost.

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20 hours ago, Mark J said:

Too bad Mythbusters is off the air.  It would make a great episode.

Many of their episodes involves air/fuel ratios and ignition sources.   Data could very easily be extrapolated from these episodes and applied to this scenario. 

19 hours ago, thatCharlieDude said:

It's coming back with new hosts

 

9 hours ago, woodbutcher said:

They have to be close to not having any more myths to bust. Hopefully its not just them blowing stuff up like the original turned into. Not that thats not entertaining.

Without Jamie and Adam, I practically refuse to support this.   The "White Rabbit" show the MB 'kids' did as a pseudo spin off was pretty weak.  

Though I wouldn't mind seeing something done with table saw kickback in mind....

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47 minutes ago, Marmotjr said:

Many of their episodes involves air/fuel ratios and ignition sources.   Data could very easily be extrapolated from these episodes and applied to this scenario. 

 

Without Jamie and Adam, I practically refuse to support this.   The "White Rabbit" show the MB 'kids' did as a pseudo spin off was pretty weak.  

Though I wouldn't mind seeing something done with table saw kickback in mind....

The White Rabbit Project was weak but I'd give it another season. Adam Savage has publicly endorsed the new hosts but I agree it won't be the same. To me, it would be better with a new name and style, just make it a whole new show. 

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