Alan G Posted February 19, 2018 Report Share Posted February 19, 2018 5 minutes ago, Chestnut said: . Next project is a couch that's basically 3 Morris chairs connected in a row, or so my idea is that so far. That’s going to be a great follow! Can’t wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted February 19, 2018 Report Share Posted February 19, 2018 5 hours ago, Chestnut said: ...For some reason i thought you were in Princeton... Zimmerman address but actually closer to Princeton in that if my driveway was on the other side of the street it would be a Princeton address. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 How long should i expect the sand paper to last on my drum sander? I have a portion of the drum currently where the paper doesn't have as much grit as the rest. I've ran almost the entire morris chair project through it so a lot of bent lam does this seem about right? Or did i botch the paper somehow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Brendon_t Posted February 21, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 6 minutes ago, Chestnut said: How long should i expect the sand paper to last on my drum sander? I have a portion of the drum currently where the paper doesn't have as much grit as the rest. I've ran almost the entire morris chair project through it so a lot of bent lam does this seem about right? Or did i botch the paper somehow? Honestly, I don't think I've ever run a belt until it was not working any more. Every time I've thrown out a strip is because of a tear on the crappy tensioning side, or walnut sapwood left a black steak that would burn everything it touches. The abrasive does wear, but I get good life out of it by keeping it clean. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 19 minutes ago, Brendon_t said: Honestly, I don't think I've ever run a belt until it was not working any more. Every time I've thrown out a strip is because of a tear on the crappy tensioning side, or walnut sapwood left a black steak that would burn everything it touches. The abrasive does wear, but I get good life out of it by keeping it clean. I hit it with the rubber every so often. Noted with the walnut sapwood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 I've been running one for around 20 years. Keep your rubber block in the freezer to make it last longer and use it frequently. I buy 35 ft rolls for around $23 and cut my own. Made a template from the original factory strips. I think it's 7 -16/32 strips or 5-19/38 per roll. I use a 2b soft lead pencil to mark the outside or the frame where a burn or worn abrasive is and then avoid that area. I mark used strips w burns for re use when I need to just run narrow pieces. Glad to answer any other questions. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 I've only had my sander since October-ish, but it still has the same belt I put on it the day I put the sander together. I hit it with the rubber block a lot and I would probably benefit by tossing the belt, but it still sands well. Or did, before tonight 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Yeah use the rubber lock like the guys say...."a lot of bent lams" does mean more glue so it is possible you just gummmed it up real bad and now it's toast. Clean it often and it will last quite a long time in my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 You probably haven't run it for hours on end taking a pile of parts to exact size on all 4 faces with several grits. It's quite capable of doing that. Keep spare rolls in several grits on hand, it's worth the investment. A single wrap used carefully can last quite awhile but hit the drum off switch at the first sign of a burn and you might be able to erase it with a liberal application of the crepe rubber (this is where a frozen one is best) ! The finer the grit the less you turn the height between passes. Using 150 grit 1/16th to 1/8 of a turn is plenty, 80 grit can handle maybe a 1/4 turn. The wider the board the less you take off on each pass. Full width of the drum be very cautious & barely crank the handle, 1/32 of a turn is probably too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 That's one area the Supermax excels at...or prevents me from screwing up... There's been several times where my feed rate automatically slowed to a crawl, and that intellisand light lights up often, but I haven't had any burning at all (yet) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 9 minutes ago, bleedinblue said: That's one area the Supermax excels at...or prevents me from screwing up... There's been several times where my feed rate automatically slowed to a crawl, and that intellisand light lights up often, but I haven't had any burning at all (yet) Same here. I've heard some ppl claim they get burning when they do this, but I've had 0 problems, I just leave it at full speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 10 hours ago, Chestnut said: How long should i expect the sand paper to last on my drum sander? I have a portion of the drum currently where the paper doesn't have as much grit as the rest. I've ran almost the entire morris chair project through it so a lot of bent lam does this seem about right? Or did i botch the paper somehow? It took me a while to workout how to use the drum sander well. I'd always try and take too much and it would tear at the tension points. The rest of the paper is fine so it can be torn up and used but it was still frustrating. Avoid glue. Make sure it's all scraped off or burning will happen. Epoxy goes through fine though. I've found that if there's a burn line, it can be scraped off using a knife. It can also scrape easier if you take the the paper off the drum. I posted a thread here a while back about using my template upside down. I cut out the paper, went to install it and it didn't fit. I cut some more paper and then realised I'd made the same mistake twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 I have ran a good 3-4 hours worth of material through it so far. My strategy thus far has been to run the conveyor at 75% speed and i usually only crank the handle down far enough to keep the intillissand from kicking on. I've also been using Steve's advice to run material at slight angles and that seems to help big time. The area where there is burning is on the outside edge and when i first had the machine i was running a wide slab though and may have buggered the sanding roll up prematurely. I did buy a bunch of rolls of various grits from one of the abrasives place. I think they were like $17 for a 35' roll. Maybe tonight I'll take the old strip off make a template and then try out some new stuff. I havne't even removed the original strip yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted March 5, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 UPDATES! I feel like I've been staring at this on my bench for the last 2 weeks. Finished the back slat bent lamination and moved strait into the tenon jig glue up. While the glue was drying i worked on the template for the back stiles. Got the tenon jig and the stile template done at about the same time. I had a really nice piece of cherry that allowed me to get the stiles back to back to save some material and also had an awesome grain flow to it. Pencil lines may be hard to see. I straddled the cathedral on 1 but stacked doubled up on the other. I template routed the stiles and remembered vividly why i hate template routing. I need to buy that whiteside or bigdaddy bit. I'm currently using a bosch 1/2" dia strait cut bit and it's probably getting dull. I got some chip out and once the bit tried to chew end grain and throw the work piece across the room. I got some bad tear out on one end grain piece. As nice as a good and proper DC is, i didn't get a chance to try and save the chipout piece to CA glue back together. Down the pipe it went. I'll detail the problem and the fix later. I used my new favortie super glue and blue tape double stick tape technique. So nice! Gluing up the mortise jig and tomorrow i'm going to go to mortise town and hopefully Tuesday is tenon town. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted March 6, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 This will be buried but to those of you that are going to be building a Morris chair soon this post might be helpful. When doing the mortises in the back stiles be careful to make sure the template doesn't shift on you. I had a bit of chatter from the 1/4" bit i was using and it ended up making one of the mortises jump a bit. I was able to get 1 side strait but this one is going to fit a bit loose. Luckily there are a lot of slats to hold things together and the flat side is getting pressure into it. You can see to the right in the picture below the longer mortise shifted a bit too. Take some sand paper and spray adhesive and put some grip on the bottom of the template. This single thing not only reduced the chatter on the bit but also made every mortise perfectly strait. I'm going to do this for the tenon jig as well. In the following pictures you can see the strait mortises. So I mentioned in my previous post that i got some chip out. Sorry i forgot to take a picture of the before and was kicking myself for forgetting just after i finished the rasp work. Here is the completed stile with the modified part on the left of the picture. Looks kinda different but a normal person would never notice. Here is that piece stacked with a stile that didn't suffer form chip out. On the left you can see nearly 3/8" missing and maybe 1/8" on the right side. The bit caught on the end grain while i was template routing and destroyed that side as well as my underpants. I stacked the two stiles that were supposed to be on the same chair traced the line over and did the same treatment with a rasp block plane and spoke shave. They came out dang close. The picture below shows the modified on the right and the regular ones on the left and honestly. I like the little extra flare. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 6, 2018 Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 Looking good Drew! Thanks for the sandpaper tip I'll remember that when I do mine later this year. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pondhockey Posted March 6, 2018 Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 Stayed up til midnight reading this whole thread. Very impressive. I'll look forward to seeing the chairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 6 hours ago, Pondhockey said: Stayed up til midnight reading this whole thread. Very impressive. I'll look forward to seeing the chairs. I don't know if i should say I'm sorry or thanks . I'm excited to see them done as well. I'm getting close i just hope upholstery doesn't take a long time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 I have all the back slats cut tenons finessed and am starting to work on loose ends. I'm getting close to being done and this excites me but there is one item that is causing me planning problems. The pivot pins. Marc does these on a lathe and i don't have one nor do i want one. The cost to get a lathe set up for just this project doesn't make sense. Does any one have any ideas for me on how to make the pivot pins? Has any one tried to use their drill press as a lathe successfully? (I don't really want to do this but it seems like an option.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted March 13, 2018 Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 I think I may reach out on the Guild FB page to see if I can buy pins from someone. Someone else used brass rod and that looked pretty awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 13, 2018 Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 2 hours ago, Chestnut said: I have all the back slats cut tenons finessed and am starting to work on loose ends. I'm getting close to being done and this excites me but there is one item that is causing me planning problems. The pivot pins. Marc does these on a lathe and i don't have one nor do i want one. The cost to get a lathe set up for just this project doesn't make sense. Does any one have any ideas for me on how to make the pivot pins? Has any one tried to use their drill press as a lathe successfully? (I don't really want to do this but it seems like an option.) If you are interested I have a lathe and could knock them out pretty quick. Not sure where you live but I'm in Zimmerman/Princeton area. Not the best on a lathe but those are pretty straight forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 13, 2018 Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 Another option wood be to purchase a hardwood dowel and glue a head on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 2 minutes ago, pkinneb said: Another option wood be to purchase a hardwood dowel and glue a head on it. That's simple, I should have thought of that. I could round the edges on some square stock to make caps. Just have to make sure to do enough all at once so that all of the pins match. I'll run by rockler on my way home today. Not trying to snub the lathe offering, i do appreciate it. 21 minutes ago, bleedinblue said: I think I may reach out on the Guild FB page to see if I can buy pins from someone. Someone else used brass rod and that looked pretty awesome. This is interesting i could get the brass stock to protrude from caps that i make as outlined above. The problem is I don't know if the backs of the chairs will be against the wall or not. I can file this away for future chair modding if i have the backs so they show off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted March 13, 2018 Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 See if I can use facebook's hosting for this: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 21 minutes ago, bleedinblue said: See if I can use facebook's hosting for this: Those are cool. I think my neighbor has a metal lathe if i ever deiced to do that in the future I'll ask him if he could make them for me. I also like the thought of a wooden head on the brass pin so the pin doesn't dent the back stiles. I don't know if that is a concern or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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