bleedinblue Posted March 13, 2018 Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 After searching for the pics, I don't like them as much as I remembered liking them...but they do help to think outside of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 13, 2018 Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 30 minutes ago, bleedinblue said: See if I can use facebook's hosting for this: Those brass pins are sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 13, 2018 Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 You could use those brass pins to crack walnuts ! Those chairs will last for generations. Document the finish schedule to ease future touch ups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted March 16, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Been making a lot of this. To get one chair almost to the point where i can assemble it. I have to disassemble the other chair and drill all the holes for pegs taper the legs and do all of the sanding yet but that's something i don't want to do any more of. There is light at the end of the tunnel! 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Man those are looking good Drew! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Good stuff. I had forgotten about the different sizes, looks like a comfy fit for 2 very diff sized ppl! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Looking really good Drew! I didn't notice you were making his and her versions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 You sure do some nice work Drew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 6 hours ago, JosephThomas said: Good stuff. I had forgotten about the different sizes, looks like a comfy fit for 2 very diff sized ppl! 1 hour ago, Woodenskye said: Looking really good Drew! I didn't notice you were making his and her versions. I'm not the other one isn't finished. I still need drill the holes that the pegs get mounted in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted March 25, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 Got most of the first chair glued up. I ran out of epoxy and couldn't get the other arm done. As it was i was running out of time with the epoxy so if i had enough it'd have been iffy any way. I was going to do both sides and then glue them together in a separate event but i accidentally applied epoxy to the wrong mortise and didn't know how i'd clean that out after it cured. So mid glue up i changed gears and went for the whole enchilada. From my last update leading up to this point i was doing a LOT of sanding and scraping. The curved back slats were a pain to clean up. I had to remove the 80 grit drum sander marks. I found that using the bending form to clamp the very curved pieces down was the best way to go. So if your going to make a chair realize that your bending forms are a good resource for more than just bent lamination. Flat pieces i got to hit with the smoothing plane and that was an awesome experience. I got to get some use out of my new #4. I really love it so far. I used it in conjunction with my stanley #4, having the Stanly to take a heavier cut and the LN to take a slightly thinner cut. Any time i ran across some mean grain in the cherry would swap to the LN with the 50 degree frog and no more tear out. The only thing that i don't like about the LN is my hands are smaller so the old Stanley tote fits my hand better. Maybe I'll go buy some jungle wood and make my own custom tote for it. I didn't have enough long clamps to do both chairs so while i was waiting for epoxy to cure i started design on the next small project. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 38 minutes ago, Chestnut said: I had to remove the 80 grit drum sander marks. I found in real life that the grits on a drum sander are courser then their random orbit sander counter parts. So now I have 120 on the drum sander then start my ROS routine 80 grit to get rid of the drum sander marks and then progress through my other 3 or 4 grits. This has made life a lot nicer. 80 grit on the drum sander just seems to really plow the field. Really glad to see you are on the home stretch of this project. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 I go one grit coarser from drum to ROS to remove the sanding scratches. My osselating edge sander doesn't leave as deep & hard to sand out scratch pattern so I considered the Jet osselating drum sander but then I talked to people who had one. Glad I got the SuperMax 19/38 .I routinely have 150 on my drum sander to remove planer marks and saw marks. Very light passes at first with a finer grit is easier than switching grits. When I need a bunch of strips for a build I sand 4 sides to get them all the exact dimensions. Makes the rest of the project go smoother, math is easier & everything consistent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 Looking good Drew! A lot going on for one glue up, nice job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 @Chet @wdwerker I totally agree and if i was planning better i'd have switched paper on the drum sander and walked up some grits with it. I wanted to get the bent lamination done so i didn't do that. With the tightish curve on the back slats there isn't any sanding it with an ROS it's hand sanding or card scraper. On the arms an ROS would work but i don't stock grits until 180 in my ROS, i always use hand tools. I strongly dislike sanding and only mildly dislike using a card scraper. When the scraper is freshly sharpened with a fresh bur it's kind fun even. Just a lot of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted March 26, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 Got the other chair glued up as well as the other arm on the first chair. All i have left is the backs. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 Looking great! It’s impressive how much you get done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 14 hours ago, Chestnut said: @Chet @wdwerker I totally agree and if i was planning better i'd have switched paper on the drum sander and walked up some grits with it. I wanted to get the bent lamination done so i didn't do that. With the tightish curve on the back slats there isn't any sanding it with an ROS it's hand sanding or card scraper. On the arms an ROS would work but i don't stock grits until 180 in my ROS, i always use hand tools. I strongly dislike sanding and only mildly dislike using a card scraper. When the scraper is freshly sharpened with a fresh bur it's kind fun even. Just a lot of work. Chestnut do you sand over your scraped or planed surfaces with sandpaper, or do you leave them fresh off the hand tools? I also really dont like sanding. Ive been scraping or planing my parts, then either leave them off the tools or put 220 paper on a sanding block and hit them real quick with that. I havent used my ROS in months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 14 minutes ago, woodbutcher said: Chestnut do you sand over your scraped or planed surfaces with sandpaper, or do you leave them fresh off the hand tools? I also really dont like sanding. Ive been scraping or planing my parts, then either leave them off the tools or put 220 paper on a sanding block and hit them real quick with that. I havent used my ROS in months. It really depends on the part as well as the condition of the iron in my plane. For the chair the legs and all the rails between the leg got hit with a #4 and had the edges eased with 220 grit by hand. I never sanded the faces on them and won't they are glass smooth. When I'm getting closer to needing to resharpen I'll hit the whole thing fast with 180 grit. I find that 180 grit removes plane tracks very quickly and doesn't cause sanding marks. I always sand after using a card scraper. The surface always seems to be slightly fuzzy or have lines or something in it. Off the scraper it takes 1 fast pass to clean the surface. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted March 29, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 While other debate highly figured wood and using multiple species in a project, i figured I'd share pictures of the chair after the first coat. Even though one arm looks more figured than the other they are book matched so they are well almost mirror images. It might be hard to see but there is cathedrals pointing both directions with the to points pointing at where your wrist sits. It's a subtle detail i was shooting for. You'll have to deal with cell phone pictures i don't want to fire up the big rig to download and edit pictures from my camera. I'll do that when all coats are on. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pondhockey Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 I appreciate the sanding tips. I find also that my hand belt sander acts at least an apparent grade courser than the ROS, for the same actual sandpaper grit. Since I'm currently working on a burl slab, with what kind of amounts to end grain, the plane doesn't work so well - too much tear-out (I tried it. And the previous worker tried something that produced even more and worse tear-out.) I've heard of using cardboard or brown paper bags to knock back the "fuzz" from raised grain. I wonder if that would work for the scraper fuzz. Anyway, the chairs are looking awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 7 hours ago, Pondhockey said: I appreciate the sanding tips. I find also that my hand belt sander acts at least an apparent grade courser than the ROS, for the same actual sandpaper grit. Since I'm currently working on a burl slab, with what kind of amounts to end grain, the plane doesn't work so well - too much tear-out (I tried it. And the previous worker tried something that produced even more and worse tear-out.) I've heard of using cardboard or brown paper bags to knock back the "fuzz" from raised grain. I wonder if that would work for the scraper fuzz. Anyway, the chairs are looking awesome. Maybe, with the scraper marks it always seems like there is a bit more material that needs to be removed to even everything out. I tried sanding with 220 by hand after scraping and that was enough. On Burl I'd sand to 220 with all the end gran that is exposed in an effort to get finish to absorb more evenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pondhockey Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 3 hours ago, Chestnut said: Maybe, with the scraper marks it always seems like there is a bit more material that needs to be removed to even everything out. I tried sanding with 220 by hand after scraping and that was enough. On Burl I'd sand to 220 with all the end gran that is exposed in an effort to get finish to absorb more evenly. Is 220 what you usually sand to? I've heard others say 150 or 180, in general. Are you suggesting finer, or just top end for end grain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 1 minute ago, Pondhockey said: Is 220 what you usually sand to? I've heard others say 150 or 180, in general. Are you suggesting finer, or just top end for end grain? I normally sand to 150-180. Typically 150 for anything oak that is going to be stained. 150 for everything else. On figured woods i generally go higher to help reduce some blotching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pondhockey Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 1 minute ago, Chestnut said: I normally sand to 150-180. Typically 150 for anything oak that is going to be stained. 150 for everything else. On figured woods i generally go higher to help reduce some blotching. Got it. I understand the sense of that. I'll try it - thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 1 minute ago, Pondhockey said: Got it. I understand the sense of that. I'll try it - thanks. 3 minutes ago, Chestnut said: I normally sand to 150-180. Typically 150 for anything oak that is going to be stained. 180 for everything else. On figured woods i generally go higher to help reduce some blotching. I made a typo. It's bolded and underlined. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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