Morris Chair Pair


Chestnut

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6 hours ago, JosephThomas said:

Good stuff. I had forgotten about the different sizes, looks like a comfy fit for 2 very diff sized ppl!

 

1 hour ago, Woodenskye said:

Looking really good Drew!  I didn't notice you were making his and her versions.

I'm not the other one isn't finished. I still need drill the holes that the pegs get mounted in.

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  • 2 weeks later...
38 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

I had to remove the 80 grit drum sander marks.

I found in real life that the grits on a drum sander are courser then their random orbit sander counter parts.  So now I have 120 on the drum sander then start my ROS routine 80 grit to get rid of the drum sander marks and then progress through my other 3 or 4 grits.  This has made life a lot nicer.  80 grit on the drum sander just seems to really plow the field.

Really glad to see you are on the home stretch of this project. 

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I go one grit coarser from drum to ROS to remove the sanding scratches. My osselating edge sander doesn't leave as deep & hard to sand out scratch pattern so I considered the Jet osselating drum sander but then I talked to people who had one.  Glad I got the SuperMax 19/38 .I routinely have 150 on my drum sander to remove planer marks and saw marks. Very light passes at first with a finer grit is easier than switching grits.  When I need a bunch of strips for a build I sand 4 sides to get them all the exact dimensions. Makes the rest of the project go smoother, math is easier & everything consistent.

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@Chet @wdwerker I totally agree and if i was planning better i'd have switched paper on the drum sander and walked up some grits with it. I wanted to get the bent lamination done so i didn't do that. With the tightish curve on the back slats there isn't any sanding it with an ROS it's hand sanding or card scraper. On the arms an ROS would work but i don't stock grits until 180 in my ROS, i always use hand tools. I strongly dislike sanding and only mildly dislike using a card scraper. When the scraper is freshly sharpened with a fresh bur it's kind fun even. Just a lot of work.

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14 hours ago, Chestnut said:

@Chet @wdwerker I totally agree and if i was planning better i'd have switched paper on the drum sander and walked up some grits with it. I wanted to get the bent lamination done so i didn't do that. With the tightish curve on the back slats there isn't any sanding it with an ROS it's hand sanding or card scraper. On the arms an ROS would work but i don't stock grits until 180 in my ROS, i always use hand tools. I strongly dislike sanding and only mildly dislike using a card scraper. When the scraper is freshly sharpened with a fresh bur it's kind fun even. Just a lot of work.

Chestnut do you sand over your scraped or planed surfaces with sandpaper, or do you leave them fresh off the hand tools? I also really dont like sanding. Ive been scraping or planing my parts, then either leave them off the tools or put 220 paper on a sanding block and hit them real quick with that. I havent used my ROS in months. 

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14 minutes ago, woodbutcher said:

Chestnut do you sand over your scraped or planed surfaces with sandpaper, or do you leave them fresh off the hand tools? I also really dont like sanding. Ive been scraping or planing my parts, then either leave them off the tools or put 220 paper on a sanding block and hit them real quick with that. I havent used my ROS in months. 

It really depends on the part as well as the condition of the iron in my plane. For the chair the legs and all the rails between the leg got hit with a #4 and had the edges eased with 220 grit by hand. I never sanded the faces on them and won't they are glass smooth. When I'm getting closer to needing to resharpen I'll hit the whole thing fast with 180 grit. I find that 180 grit removes plane tracks very quickly and doesn't cause sanding marks. I always sand after using a card scraper. The surface always seems to be slightly fuzzy or have lines or something in it. Off the scraper it takes 1 fast pass to clean the surface.

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I appreciate the sanding tips.  I find also that my hand belt sander acts at least an apparent grade courser than the ROS, for the same actual sandpaper grit.

Since I'm currently working on a burl slab, with what kind of amounts to end grain, the plane doesn't work so well - too much tear-out (I tried it.  And the previous worker tried something that produced even more and worse tear-out.)

I've heard of using cardboard or brown paper bags to knock back the "fuzz" from raised grain.  I wonder if that would work for the scraper fuzz.

Anyway, the chairs are looking awesome.

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7 hours ago, Pondhockey said:

I appreciate the sanding tips.  I find also that my hand belt sander acts at least an apparent grade courser than the ROS, for the same actual sandpaper grit.

Since I'm currently working on a burl slab, with what kind of amounts to end grain, the plane doesn't work so well - too much tear-out (I tried it.  And the previous worker tried something that produced even more and worse tear-out.)

I've heard of using cardboard or brown paper bags to knock back the "fuzz" from raised grain.  I wonder if that would work for the scraper fuzz.

Anyway, the chairs are looking awesome.

Maybe, with the scraper marks it always seems like there is a bit more material that needs to be removed to even everything out. I tried sanding with 220 by hand after scraping and that was enough. On Burl I'd sand to 220 with all the end gran that is exposed in an effort to get finish to absorb more evenly.

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3 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Maybe, with the scraper marks it always seems like there is a bit more material that needs to be removed to even everything out. I tried sanding with 220 by hand after scraping and that was enough. On Burl I'd sand to 220 with all the end gran that is exposed in an effort to get finish to absorb more evenly.

Is 220 what you usually sand to?  I've heard others say 150 or 180, in general.  Are you suggesting finer, or just top end for end grain?

 

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1 minute ago, Pondhockey said:

Is 220 what you usually sand to?  I've heard others say 150 or 180, in general.  Are you suggesting finer, or just top end for end grain?

 

I normally sand to 150-180. Typically 150 for anything oak that is going to be stained. 150 for everything else. On figured woods i generally go higher to help reduce some blotching.

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1 minute ago, Chestnut said:

I normally sand to 150-180. Typically 150 for anything oak that is going to be stained. 150 for everything else. On figured woods i generally go higher to help reduce some blotching.

Got it.  I understand the sense of that.  I'll try it - thanks.

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1 minute ago, Pondhockey said:

Got it.  I understand the sense of that.  I'll try it - thanks.

 

3 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

I normally sand to 150-180. Typically 150 for anything oak that is going to be stained. 180 for everything else. On figured woods i generally go higher to help reduce some blotching.

I made a typo. It's bolded and underlined.

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