ADVICE PLEASE - Starting Hand Tool Woodworking

[WillShattuck]

Hi folks,

I'm getting started with hand tool woodworking.  I have a japanese style pull saw, some traditional american hand saws, a basic set of chisels (that need sharpening, but that's another forum topic), and now I'm looking at buying my first hand plane or hand planes.

I'm inspired by guys like Paul Sellers and Wood by Wright and I only have a 6 foot by 7 foot area for what I want to do and I want to use hand tools for the "therapeutic"-ness of it all.

So, my question, I'm ready to buy a plane and have whittled it down to Lie-Neilsen or Veritas, but I'm not sure if I need to buy a bench plane, a jack plane, bevel up or bevel down.  I did read the pinned plane topic, but that just brought me to more confusion.

So I'm looking for a suggestion on one plane to buy for hand tool only wood working.

Thanks.

[Chet]

I have the Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane,  It was the first plane I bought after  I decided I wanted more then just a block plane in the shop.  It was recommended to me as a good place to start as it was kind of a "Jack of all Trades" type plane.  I have been real pleased with it so far, five years now.  But a Block Plane is a good one to have also.

[Tmize]

I would start with a #5 jack plane bevel down. An get at least one extra blade leave one blade straight across just knock down the corner to help with track marks the other put a radius bevel on it  to act as your scrub plane. That will get you by for a lil bit til you save up for your next one an so on an so on.....

[..Kev]

Hard to go wrong with either manufacturer, they're both good.  I have the LN stuff and have been super happy with them.

Agree with the jack plane to get going.

[Tmize]

Now the bevel up or bevel down debate will never by decided it comes down the to your style. I learned on a bevel down an that’s my preference. When it comes to my bench planes 1-8 size but now block planes yes get low angle. I know LN offers high angle frogs LV may but something I do to combat having to have one is have a spare 2” blade that has a 10 degree back bevel on it. It does amazing job on high figure an end grain. An a 2” blade will fit a #4 or #5 plane

[Ronn W]

I recommend 2 planes for starters : 1) Veritas low angle jack plane with 2 blades (one blade bevelled to about 35 degrees and one blade bevelled to 50 degrees) 

2) A low angle block plane with 2 blades - 35 degrees and 45 degress for those small pieces with gnarly grain.

[wtnhighlander]

Are you planning to mill rough stock by hand? If so, I highly recommend 3 types of plane: Scrub, Jointer, and Smoother.

You can do all these operations with a Jack plane (typically a Stanley-style #5 or #4), but not nearly as well as individually sized and configured planes for each job. 

I have tried taking a piece of rough stock to a finished surface with only my Sweetheat #4, and was successful, but it eas a LOT of work. Using a cheap plane from HF to scrub across the grain, an old #5 to level along the grain, followed by a #7 to REALLY flatten, then finish with the #4 and corners broken with the block plane was far less work.

However, if budget allowed me just one decent plane, I would probably recommend a #4. If two, then a #5 and a block plane. In my experience, a Stanley or Woodriver plane will get you 95% of the performance at 50% of the cost when compared to Veritas or Leigh Neilson.

[Cheeset202]

Agree with all the comments on the jack plane.  You can’t go wrong with either Veritas or LN.  If you are looking at a block plane as well I recommend the LN rabbet block plane.  Unfortunately Veritas does not make one.  The big difference between the standard block plane and the rabbet block plane is the blade is the full width of the sole and comes in very handy on shoulder work.  If funds are tight I would also recommend the Wood River bench planes, once the blade is sharpened they perform very well, they require a little more time to lap the blade but once that is done they work great.

[RichardA]

The advise your getting on the hand planes, while good.  There seems to be a lacking in the need for a good hand plane bench. Having good planes is important. But, having a bench designed for hand plane work is just as important.  It has to be solid, it has to be heavy, and you need a way to hold the work you are planing.  There are several ways to hold your work, and there is plenty of information on site as to how to do that. Just a little research here will get you more than enough info.

[Brendon_t]

12 hours ago, Chet said:

I have the Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane,  It was the first plane I bought after  I decided I wanted more then just a block plane in the shop.  It was recommended to me as a good place to start as it was kind of a "Jack of all Trades" type plane.  I have been real pleased with it so far, five years now.  But a Block Plane is a good one to have also.

 Personally I would Not go with LV or Veritas right now. If you are just starting off, those are toward the most expensive end.

Two options I would consider. 

1)  LAJP + extra blades. This is how I started. Low angle Jack plus a high angle blade plus a block plane.  Will not do Everything you want to do but will definitely give you the feel for what you are getting into and you can decide if you now really need a scrub plane, two smothers and a jointer plane. 

2) Piece together a non premium kit. Again, if you're just starting, there's no reason not to cut your teeth sharpening, adjusting and using planes that you can't really screw up and don't cost a fortune.  Stanley planes are all over the place and have been around forever.  

I just can't justify the ln/lv cost for someone just setting up. You can get so much for function for the $ without the premium markup.

 

[wtnhighlander]

@RichardA makes a good point. Using hand planes without a stable and secure work-holding device is akin to torture.

Ideally, a heavy, rigid bench with access to all sides is the way to go, but a platform of 2x4s and plywood can work. Bolt it to the floor or wall of your shop to prevent movement. And google for home made vise to find all sorts of budget work holding devices.

[Cheeset202]

7 hours ago, RichardA said:

The advise your getting on the hand planes, while good.  There seems to be a lacking in the need for a good hand plane bench. Having good planes is important. But, having a bench designed for hand plane work is just as important.  It has to be solid, it has to be heavy, and you need a way to hold the work you are planing.  There are several ways to hold your work, and there is plenty of information on site as to how to do that. Just a little research here will get you more than enough info.

I couldn’t agree more with Richards advice, hand tool work, especially planing requires a very solid bench.  There are lots of plans out there to help you build a good bench without breaking the bank.  My first bench was built from construction lumber with doubled up mdf for the top.  The rails and legs are held together with allthread running the full length of the rails so they can be tightened to keep the bench solid.  I am currently building a Roubo out of hard maple and benchcrafted hardware but you don’t need to start there unless you really want to spoil yourself.

[Coop]

Or, if you get old and lazy like me, a DW735 would be a good option and it comes with a heavy duty work bench.

[pkinneb]

What's your next project going to be? With that info we will be able to provide better advice on the next plane you should buy and from who.

[WillShattuck]

Ahh yes that would have helped wouldn’t it. My first project is actually to build a work bench out of pine 2x4. Laminating the legs and bench top. I’m going to use Paul Sellers’ most recent series as a guide. 

 

So definitley a good bench plane. I thiught about getting a jointer too but after watching Paul only use a bench plane I figured I would start with a #5 or equivalent plane. 

[Gilgaron]

Paul is tricky in that he is very skilled so everything he does looks easier than it is!  If you want to build furniture by hand you'll want a jointer eventually, but the jack and smoother will be more important to start.  Sellers could probably joint with a block plane, but I like using a 6 or 8. 

[pkinneb]

On 6/24/2018 at 12:12 PM, WillShattuck said:

Ahh yes that would have helped wouldn’t it. My first project is actually to build a work bench out of pine 2x4. Laminating the legs and bench top. I’m going to use Paul Sellers’ most recent series as a guide. 

 

So definitley a good bench plane. I thiught about getting a jointer too but after watching Paul only use a bench plane I figured I would start with a #5 or equivalent plane. 

Based on this I think you're right on track here with the #5. If money is not a concern I would look at LN or LV if your working to keep costs down I really like the Woodriver #5 I have had for several years now, It was my first hand plane and still one of my favorites.

[WillShattuck]

Thank you all for the advice. I was planning on buying a LN or Veritas ad the reviews I've seen on YouTube show they come well set up and just need some slight tuning. I'll check out Woodridge as well. 

So ifni go for a jack plane, a smoothing plane and a block plane that would do me well for a start right?

So a #5 jack plane, #4 smoothing and block plane right?

[..Kev]

Yep..  Very nice start for sure!

[Chet]

21 minutes ago, WillShattuck said:

So a #5 jack plane, #4 smoothing and block plane right?

Good choices.  One more thing to think about, all my planes are Veritas, mainly because they were a little less costly but I did get the LN rabbeting block plane because it gives you a little more versatility with one tool until you get around to purchasing a shoulder plane.

[Coyote Jim]

4 hours ago, Chet said:

Good choices.  One more thing to think about, all my planes are Veritas, mainly because they were a little less costly but I did get the LN rabbeting block plane because it gives you a little more versatility with one tool until you get around to purchasing a shoulder plane.

I wish I had gone with the LN rabbeting block plane to start out with. I did not. It is essentially two tools in one. I bought a normal block plane and since then have bought a shoulder/rabbet plane. Would have been better/cheaper to just have gotten the LN rabbeting block plane from the start.

[Tony Wilkins]

I disagree with those that say not to start out with an LV or LN plane and go with something cheaper.  I think it’s beneficial to start out with something that will just work right out of the box.  WR and especially Stanley are likely to need some degree of flattening and fettleing whereas it’s rare for the premium to need anything other than a light honeing.

after that, you can keep going new premium or even restore a vintage.  Not a fan of WR.

[Tpt life]

Philosophically not a fan of WR, but the one I have needed no fettling. 

[Jim DaddyO]

For what it's worth here's what I did.

I bought a bunch of old Stanley and Record planes.  More than I needed, but if I were to do it again I would get 3 of them for bench planes.  A #4, #5, and a #7.  I would add a block plane to that.

Yes, you will likely have to do some work to them.  In that process you will learn how to set them up and how they work.  I still use my set after many years.  The newest one is from 1936 or so.

The #5 I have set up the most crudely.  It is my fore plane.  Used for roughing out stock.  The #7 is set up a better and is my jointing plane.  The #4 is set up very well and is my smoothing plane and takes very fine shavings.

I would love to go spend a thousand dollars on nice new Veritas or similar planes.  But why?  I have the #'s 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7, got a block plane and a marking gauge in the deal all for $115 CDN.  They work just fine for what I want without a huge layout of money.  I could probably sell them for more than I paid for them, and I know how they work.  It took a while to tune them up and I still experiment with them a bit ( lately I have changed the angle which I sharpen and I am slowly putting a camber on the #5).  I know how they work and why.  They are more difficult than buying a new bevel up plane for sure, but it's a learning experience that I find is a great part of the journey.