New Year - New Workbench

[Al Capwn]

Alright everyone, with the New Year upon us (Happy New Year to those already celebrating it) it is time to put together an actual workbench, rather than just an assembly table. With that being said, I wanted to canvas everyone's opinions in regards to workbenches and what they have liked and disliked about them along the way. So cast your vote on the design you prefer, and please elaborate why you ended up with that decision.

For me...

1. Purpose: Intent of using the workbench for hand planing, and finessing joinery with hand tools. I have a router table, table saw, band saw - all that jazz for the majority of the grunt work. I have an Eclipse quick-release vice that I plan on using. Not sure on tail or face position just yet.
2. Size: Space is in a garage, ideally shooting for 5-6' in length. Anything longer would be pretty prohibitive in terms of garage shui.
3. Budget: I don't plan want to spend a fortune; this will probably be made out of SYP because it is cheap, easy to acquire and plane. My "dream" bench will come later when I move into a larger dedicated space. This bench needs to survive until that transition happens, and then it can be, "so long, and thanks for all the fish".

[Coop]

Who's the Paul guy from England? Can't remember his last name. Cool dude. Anyway, he has a couple of vids of him making a work bench from syp. Maybe not syp, but construction grade lumber.

[Al Capwn]

2 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

Who's the Paul guy from England? Can't remember his last name. Cool dude. Anyway, he has a couple of vids of him making a work bench from syp. Maybe not syp, but construction grade lumber.

Paul Sellers I think?

His was an English-style bench, but with a laminated glue up like seen in most of the newer Roubo builds. Though from what I hear, Roubo called for a single slab top...probably tougher to come by these days.

[Coop]

Great poll. Eager to see how this pans out.

[ncfowler]

I have a simple bench nothing fancy, but does the job, it sits in the middle of my shop so I can access all sides, the question I would pose to you is what do you want the bench to do for you, let that be the guide. once you figure out your needs then look at the design that best fits your needs, My wife got me my bench at a unclaimed salvage place, paid around $125.00 has a vice, dogs, and four draws, and shelf, for my needs at this point it does just fine, do I want a better one well, we always want better don't we.

[Coop]

I don't disagree. Speaking of wives, mine calls me inside everytime a Victoria Secrets show comes on, and I wouldn't trade her for all o f t h o s e w o m e n. Did I just say that?

[Immortan D]

6 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

I don't disagree. Speaking of wives, mine calls me inside everytime a Victoria Secrets show comes on, and I would trade her for all o f t h o s e w o m e n. Did I just say that?

The backstage must be fun on those shows.

[Al Capwn]

18 minutes ago, ncfowler said:

I have a simple bench nothing fancy, but does the job, it sits in the middle of my shop so I can access all sides, the question I would pose to you is what do you want the bench to do for you, let that be the guide. once you figure out your needs then look at the design that best fits your needs, My wife got me my bench at a unclaimed salvage place, paid around $125.00 has a vice, dogs, and four draws, and shelf, for my needs at this point it does just fine, do I want a better one well, we always want better don't we.

I am fairly settled on the Nicholson design since it seems the easiest to construct, but I am always open to suggestions and input. I *think* that it would fit the bill, but there is nothing like looking back and saying, "Gee, wish I would have thought of that earlier..." when it comes to design choices. If there is a compelling reason to go with another style, I am all ears.

Since I personally own and have tried none of them, it is good to hear what others experience is. I don't expect the first go to be perfect, but I think the goal of "significantly sucking less" would be an accurate statement. 

I have a set of Gramercy holdfasts coming my way, so some form of swiss-cheesing of the workbench will probably be in the works.

[wareaglewoodworker]

Have any of you built the knock-down Nicholson that Christopher Schwarz blogged about last year?  I think I'm going to build that one this winter.  I want something I can break down and will be short enough to fit into the back of my truck with the tailgate up so about 5' 5" max length.

[d8nk]

Look forward to hearing everyone's opinions on this one. I too am going to build a bench soon. Very similar needs to OP.

[wtnhighlander]

My bench is 60" x 22", rubo-ish, made of laminated 2 x 4 construction lumber. The top is about 3 1/4" thick, and the legs are flush with the sides of the top. Originally, they were flush at one end and had a 10" or so overhang at the other for clamping. Since then I added a vice to the flush end. For the next iteration, I plan to build it the same, but adding a wide apron on one side, still in plane with top and legs. I will probably add a dedicated planing stop, rather than the round pegs I use as bench dogs now. I may also add a hook to the apron, to act as a planing stop for edge work. Probably fewer holdfast / dog holes, too. Considering a split top to ease flattening the slab, if so, I will go up to 24" total width. Haven't needed more length, so far. The bench is pretty stable for planing, but the DW735 I store on the bottom shelf helps a lot!

[Brendon_t]

Since I guess I can't vote for my harbor freight 60" $139 special, I guess I'll go with Roubo. 

Specific reason:1) I think shaker benches look nasty with the drawers. 

2) benchcrafted hardware is the Hershey to my sprinkle

3) a big lifetime bench is a big job. The guild series was wonderfully laid out. If I was going to buld another in a few years,  I may be comfortable with the try it and learn but for a one time build,  I like that I have already seen it done,  about 7 times, and have the victories,  failures and experience of past builders to lean on if I step in the perverbial pile..

[SawDustB]

My bench is 60" x 22", rubo-ish, made of laminated 2 x 4 construction lumber. The top is about 3 1/4" thick, and the legs are flush with the sides of the top. Originally, they were flush at one end and had a 10" or so overhang at the other for clamping. Since then I added a vice to the flush end. For the next iteration, I plan to build it the same, but adding a wide apron on one side, still in plane with top and legs. I will probably add a dedicated planing stop, rather than the round pegs I use as bench dogs now. I may also add a hook to the apron, to act as a planing stop for edge work. Probably fewer holdfast / dog holes, too. Considering a split top to ease flattening the slab, if so, I will go up to 24" total width. Haven't needed more length, so far. The bench is pretty stable for planing, but the DW735 I store on the bottom shelf helps a lot!

Could I trouble you for some pictures? I'm also thinking about a new bench, and what you're describing sounds very much like what I may build. I've only got room for a5 foot bench, and I've been debating how to overhang the ends (or not).

[carbonman]

10 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

Since I guess I can't vote for my harbor freight 60" $139 special,

I like my $139 Harbor Freight bench. I got it in a time crunch and

needed a bench. Yes, I had to fix a broken lower shelf. The bench was

too short for me so I added new legs. It was not sturdy enough, so I

lag screwed it too the wall. I like it. It is a very functional bench.

 

        

[Robby W]

I like a blended European style bench with a tail vice. While I like my quick adjust Record face vice, I want a tail vice and dogs too. Kind of Lie-Neilson meets Lon Schleining with a touch of Tige Freid/Frank Klaus tossed in for spice. By having a separate base, I can change tops if I want without scraping everything.

[SawDustB]

I'm going to ask a somewhat related question... What thickness do you really need for the bench? I know thicker is better for various reasons, but what is thick enough to be a usable hand tool bench?

It seems to me that the difficulty in handling, cutting, etc goes up once the thickness gets much beyond 3 inches. I would assume that the thickness is also material dependent, so I wouldn't need the same thickness in pine or spruce as if I used maple or oak. I'm also trying to do my bench on a budget, with my local hardwood place being $6-7 a board foot for 8/4 stock in pretty much anything domestic. I do have some salvaged hardwood I considered using, but it would probably give me a top at about 2 3/4 finished thickness.

[wtnhighlander]

Thickness is important for using holdfasts. You generally need between 2" and 4" for them to work properly, but that can vary. Mass is important for absorbing the shock of chopping out mortices with a chisel, and other pounding. Rigidity is most important for most of the tasks done one the bench. It shouldn't flex, and it shoudn't scoot across the floor while you plane on it. Bolting it down, or adding ballast can help with that.

Here is my cobbled-up 2x4 bench:

I mispoke about the overhang, its only about 6". I use that end for outfeed from my TS. Note the machines acting as ballast below. The bench is quite sturdy, but is still light enough to move easily, without the added weight. The end vice is a couple of boards and pipe clamps, ala Jay Bates. I actually got the idea from an old woodworking mag.

[h3nry]

17 minutes ago, SawDustB said:

 

I'm going to ask a somewhat related question... What thickness do you really need for the bench? I know thicker is better for various reasons, but what is thick enough to be a usable hand tool bench?

My bench uses just 2x12s on the top with a 2x4 torsion-box to give rigidity.  I glued/screwed an extra piece of 2x4 underneath to double the thickness where i drilled the hold-fast holes. It seems to work well enough.

[Al Capwn]

4 minutes ago, h3nry said:

My bench uses just 2x12s on the top with a 2x4 torsion-box to give rigidity.  I glued/screwed an extra piece of 2x4 underneath to double the thickness where i drilled the hold-fast holes. It seems to work well enough.

Very nice - very similar to another Nicholson style constructed here. The only part I am wrestling over is the top. I like the idea of a lamination glue-up to give it a bit more mass and material for the holdfasts, rather than simply adding blocking material underneath. The single piece would make it easier to put together quicker though.

[Chet]

20 hours ago, wareaglewoodworker said:

Have any of you built the knock-down Nicholson that Christopher Schwarz blogged about last year?  I think I'm going to build that one this winter.  I want something I can break down and will be short enough to fit into the back of my truck with the tailgate up so about 5' 5" max length.

I am just starting to build this bench, not because of the knock down design because I am not going to need that feature but just because I think it will be a good fit for me.  And the fact that it isn't a big financial investment I can use it to see if I want or need anything different in a bench for the work I do.  The one thing I am going to add is the Veritas insert vise.  And contrary to the poll I won't be putting it against the wall under a window.  After information acquired in a previous thread here a did a lot of reshuffling in the shop so that I can have the bench pretty much in the middle.

[SawDustB]

Thickness is important for using holdfasts. You generally need between 2" and 4" for them to work properly, but that can vary. Mass is important for absorbing the shock of chopping out mortices with a chisel, and other pounding. Rigidity is most important for most of the tasks done one the bench. It shouldn't flex, and it shoudn't scoot across the floor while you plane on it. Bolting it down, or adding ballast can help with that.

Here is my cobbled-up 2x4 bench: I mispoke about the overhang, its only about 6". I use that end for outfeed from my TS. Note the machines acting as ballast below. The bench is quite sturdy, but is still light enough to move easily, without the added weight. The end vice is a couple of boards and pipe clamps, ala Jay Bates. I actually got the idea from an old woodworking mag.

That looks very much like my plan, thanks for the pictures. I've also got plans to use my thickness planer as ballast, although it will likely be joined by my compressor. Part of my thinking is that if I go with hardwood, it should be as rigid as a 2x4 top even if it's a little thinner (1/2 inch).

I should obviously just go get that bubinga slab I keep eyeing at the hardwood dealer. That should make a stiff top, and no lamination!

[Immortan D]

My top is 3x8 pine, but I laminated a section with hardwood to preserve it when using the dog holes especially with my makeshift tail vise

 

[SawDustB]

What are the thoughts generally on clamping up the top? I don't have enough clamps to do it properly, so I was contemplating using a method I've seen a couple of places to run threaded rod through the top for clamping. Obviously, this had to be planned to miss the dog holes and vise mounting, but it doesn't seem like an awful idea. I'm not adverse to using some metal hardware if it makes the process easier.

I know this runs counter to conventional wisdom on this, but it also seems to me that using 4/4 lumber might make the glue up easier because clamping pressure could bring the joints together much easier than with thicker pieces.

[Immortan D]

4 minutes ago, SawDustB said:

I don't have enough clamps to do it properly, so I was contemplating using a method I've seen a couple of places to run threaded rod through the top for clamping. Obviously, this had to be planned to miss the dog holes and vise mounting, but it doesn't seem like an awful idea. I'm not adverse to using some metal hardware if it makes the process easier.

I think you're over complicating things. Get some pipe clamps, they're cheap and suitable for that task. If your boards are well jointed and flat, you don't need many clamps anyways.

[sjk]

You want to make sure that you have your clamping pressure distributed all along the pieces being glued up, so you'll need a fair number of clamps and/or threaded rod clamp things.  Or very thick cauls and a lot of clamping pressure.

Do you already have the threaded rod?  If not, I'd bet you'll spend close to the price of a clamp to buy the threaded rod, washers and nuts.  And then you'd have the clamps for use on future projects.

Harbor Freight aluminum bar clamps are inexpensive and work pretty well (especially if you do the insert-a-wooden-stiffener trick) (they're $9.99 for a 36").  You can pick up pipe clamps and 24" bar clamps for a little more money, but still be under $20 per clamp.