N00b-in-training Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 While structural it's not pretty. Lol. Going to try to knock one out every morning before work. This is poplar... When learning is it easier to learn on a softer wood or harder? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Poplar is good. It is on the soft side but also works very easily. As you dial in perfect technique you will not need lots of energy. It will compress if your chisel levers. It will compress if your chisel is not sharp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jfitz Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Looks like a lot of 'first times'.....so you're in good company!! One a day is a good plan - you'll notice a lot of improvement quickly, I'm guessing. Poplar is a good wood for practicing. IMO better than pine - pine is maybe "too soft". Often, an assembly is a hardwood (such as a drawer front) with a softer wood (maybe poplar sides) and you can be a lot more aggressive about leaving a tight - almost too-tight - fit because the softer wood will compress when assembled. Remember....keep the saw in the waste side of the line! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxerjoe04 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Looks better than my first time, since I'm too big of a wuss to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 While structural it's not pretty. Lol. Going to try to knock one out every morning before work. This is poplar... When learning is it easier to learn on a softer wood or harder? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Its easiest to learn on CHEAPER ... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beantobe Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Pretty good first try. Agree with jfitz to cut on waste side and use pencil to rub against entry side of tails, try fit take apart and pare away grey graphite smudges. You are guaranteed a good clean fit. Might take you awhile with this method, but as your marking and sawing technique improves there will be less waste to pare away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 You're doing fine! Don't get discouraged! Looks better than my first one and probably better than my last one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Way to get at it. I did the 30 day challenge and only lasted about 10 out of boredom. When practicing, remember that practice does not make perfect. Perfect practice makes perfect. I still have my first hand cut dt and I'm pretty sure it's gappier than that. Good luck and have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post TerryMcK Posted March 7, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Poplar is ok but harder woods are better. Not bad so far. Practice gets you better. On those size boards try just to do three tails. Here are a few hints in no particular order: Go a little lighter on the base line scribe. You only need to see it faintly. If you are chopping the waste out don't start on the base line but come forward about 1/32". When most of the waste is out then take a final chisel chop on the base line to the centre of the board. Angle the chisel about 2 degrees off vertical to create a low point at the centre of the board. Turn the board over and do the same from the other side. This creates a slight vee and will result in a nice tight joint. If you are cutting tails first use a 0.5mm mechanical pencil to transfer the tails over to the pin board. Leave a hair on the length of the pins. When glued up they can protrude slightly and planed (or sanded) off when the glue is dry. Cut on the waste side of the pencil marks and try to leave the pencil lead visible. Keep the saw plate at 90 to the board with a light hold on the saw. Keep your elbow in to your body, your arm should swing back and forth like a pendulum. You will develop muscle memory Let the saw do the cutting Take your time and enjoy the process. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N00b-in-training Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Day 2 - much better. Block the thread if you like but I'm going to post every morning until I get to 30, or until I get a great joint several days in a row, as a personal motivation to keep going. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Way to get at it. I did the 30 day challenge and only lasted about 10 out of boredom. When practicing, remember that practice does not make perfect. Perfect practice makes perfect. I still have my first hand cut dt and I'm pretty sure it's gappier than that. Good luck and have fun. Here's my other motivation.... 10 drawers for my bench. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Good luck i hope that it doesn't take 30 to get good consistent results. Though i will say nothing makes you better than when there is something on the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Great job! Don't know about perfect practice, but structured practice is the goal. After you finish each day, look over the joint, think about what worked and what didn't, write yourself a note on what you will improve next day, then in the morning focus on that item until you are satisfied, then move on to the next issue. Most people practice (anything, not just wood working) until it's "good enough" then quit practicing. The best keep going in a focused way until it's great. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N00b-in-training Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Great job! Don't know about perfect practice, but structured practice is the goal. After you finish each day, look over the joint, think about what worked and what didn't, write yourself a note on what you will improve next day, then in the morning focus on that item until you are satisfied, then move on to the next issue. Most people practice (anything, not just wood working) until it's "good enough" then quit practicing. The best keep going in a focused way until it's great. Good luck! Good points! I think part of my problem has been the tails on both of them have been too narrow, making it difficult to mark the pins with a pencil. This morning I was able to get my marking knife in one side but since it's a right marking knife I had a hard time marking the left side of the pin location. Does everyone have right and left marking knives or a two sided knife? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Diamond point single bevel or two sided as you say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Two sided knife. Gittin better dude! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N00b-in-training Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Little better this morning but clearly too tighten the tail. Split the board.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 I have a question and being a noob to this i might as well as a noob. What tools do you need to do hand cut dovetails? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N00b-in-training Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 I have a question and being a noob to this i might as well as a noob. What tools do you need to do hand cut dovetails? My list (not all required...) Lie Nielsen Carcus Saw Two dividers Set of Narex chisels Coping saw (lots'o debate on coping saw vs fret saw, see Chris Swartz's post if you want to know more...) Veritas Wheel Marking Gauge Veritas dovetail marker Marking knife Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 2 hours ago, Chestnut said: I have a question and being a noob to this i might as well as a noob. What tools do you need to do hand cut dovetails? NEED: an easy to control saw you can cut straight with, chisels and banging instrument, a fine point instrument to transfer lines. A marking gauge is nice to scribe shoulder lines, bevel gauge is nice to keep angles consistent, fret/coping saw is nice to remove the bulk of waste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 6 hours ago, N00b-in-training said: Little better this morning but clearly too tighten the tail. Split the board.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Jason when doing a test fit if you start to feel resistance while pressing the parts together with your fingers just stop and take a look at the joints. Then you can take a chisel to the offending pin. Be careful to undercut at the base line before you take a shaving otherwise you can split along the grain. You can always fix a split though with some glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 6 hours ago, N00b-in-training said: Little better this morning but clearly too tighten the tail. Split the board.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'll take too tight to to loose any day. A chisel can fix too tight pretty quickly. Not so much the other way around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Blue Spruce makes beautiful marking knives and Veritas makes a great once that is much cheaper. Not as beautiful, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Little better this morning but clearly too tighten the tail. Split the board.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'll take too tight to to loose any day. A chisel can fix too tight pretty quickly. Not so much the other way around. Even too loose isn't that hard to fix, if you keep your scraps handy until the end! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jfitz Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Good progress!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N00b-in-training Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Happy with how things have progressed the last 4 days. Going to start on actual bench drawers tonight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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